Ask a Dermatologist: What Can I Do About Fine Lines?

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Q: I just turned 30 and right on cue, I’m seeing fine lines on my face. My skin’s too oily for heavy anti-aging creams, but what can I do to fight these not-quite-wrinkles? –Tiffany, 30 years old.

Dr. Gervaise Gerstner, a NYC-based dermatologist, had a lot of ideas for this one. First, address the cause of the wrinkles. “Fine lines can be the result of sun damage from years ago, and they can also be from repetitive movement, like squinting in the sun, pursing your upper lip when drinking your Diet Coke, and smoking,” she says. (Sunscreen is obviously a no-brainer for preventing further lines.)

Next, Dr. Gerstner advises that you address the more mechanical culprits. “Eliminate some of those repetitive movements if you can. Obviously I don’t want you to stop smiling, but don’t drink out of a straw, don’t purse your lips, don’t smoke, and definitely get a pair of sunglasses,” she says. “If you’re not squinting as much, then you’re not going to get as many crow’s feet around the eyes. Those are easy, cheap things to do.”

Related: How to Handle Chicken Skin

Finally: topical treatments. Dr. Gerstner recommends starting a nightly retinol regimen. While you can get it in prescription strength from a dermatologist, there are tons of over-the-counter products options:

? L’Oreal Paris RevitaLift Anti-Wrinkle +Firming Night Cream, $18

? RoC Retinol Correxion Sensitive Night Cream, $18

? SkinCeuticals Retinol 1.0 Refining Night Cream, $63

The dermatologist’s can’t-live-without skin care secret weapon is glycolic acid, which also helps with resurfacing fine lines. She and many other dermatologists sell pads soaked with 20% glycolic acid, which she recommends using three nights a week. You can also pick an over-the-counter, version. It’s less concentrated, but still effective. Some to try:

? Nip + Fab Glycolic Fix Exfoliating Facial Pads, $13

? Bliss That’s Incredi-Peel, $49 for 30 pads

? Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel, $88 for 30 treatments

Related: Why It’s Worth Wearing A Facemask Overnight

Of course, if you want to bring in the big guns, you can hit your derm’s office. Dr. Gerstner performs in-office peels using 40%, 50%, or even 70% glycolic acid. She also recommends the Clear + Brilliant laser, a gentle, entry-level laser that’s effective against fine lines. “I like to start very early addressing the fine lines with the Clear + Brilliant. I do it on my own skin every three weeks,” she says. “It’s not that expensive and it doesn’t hurt that much; you’re pink for an hour. It’s a great little supplement to using the home retinol.” Treatments can cost anywhere from $150 to $400, depending where you live. While that is not exactly cheap, it’s much more affordable than the more intense laser treatments like Fraxel, which can be thousands of dollars.

If you stick to this regimen, you should be able to make some progress against time’s march across your face.

Related: 9 Natural Oils & What They Do

Have a question for a dermatologist? Leave it in the comments.