Helena Rubinstein: “Beauty is Power"
A sketch of Helena Rubinstein by Picasso from 1955
We live in a time when everyone from athletes to bloggers aspires to be a brand. In the age-of-Instagram, who doesn’t understand the power of a well-crafted image? But over a century-ago, a 4-foot-10 dynamo named Helena Rubinstein used self-expression to create her eponymous brand and change the face of beauty.
A photograph of Helena Rubinstein taken in 1924
It’s hard to imagine now, but in the late 19th-century makeup was seen as the realm of actresses and prostitutes. Rubinstein, however, saw beauty creams and makeup as a way for women to become whoever they wanted. She wasn’t necessarily pretty by conventional standards, but Rubinstein used makeup to transform herself into the alluring woman she imagined. Rubinstein saw the potential for makeup to make women as beautiful as they wished. Her famous quote, “There are no ugly women, only lazy ones,” was brilliant. No self-respecting women wanted to be either and she offered them the ticket with her products.
A 1949 ad for Helena Rubinstein’s makeup inspired by the Surrealist art
Born in to poverty in Poland in 1872, Rubinstein fled to Australia in 1903 to escape an arranged marriage. Blessed with gorgeous creamy skin, she was often asked her secret and teamed up with a chemist to create a moisturizer that promised to deliver. It was a hit. Rubinstein left Australia to open beauty salons in London, Paris, and later New York in 1915. She filled those salons with an ever-expanding art collection, beautiful furniture, and put herself as her own best advertisement. Rubinstein believed in not only being beautiful, but being surrounded by beauty. Those collections are currently on display at the Jewish Museum’s new exhibit Beauty is Power.
Rubenstein at home on Park Avenue with African sculptures on display
Rubinstein in 1958 standing before portraits she had commissioned
Rubinstein had wonderful taste and cultivated friendships with many of the artists and fashion designers of early twentieth century. She had her portrait painted dozens of times, even tracking down an elusive Picasso; she showed up at his house and demanded he draw her on the spot. The exhibit features work by Frieda Kahlo, Andy Warhol, Matisse, and Miró, along with African and Oceanic sculpture.
A sketch of Madame Rubinstein by Andy Warhol
Rubinstein, who passed away in 1965, once said that “beauty is power” and she was right. It was her ticket to wealth, fame, and ultimately control of her life. It was a modern concept, delivered way before its time.
Helena Rubinstein wearing a 1938 Elsa Schiaparelli jacket
Beauty is Power Opens October 31st and runs to March 22nd at the Jewish Museum, Fifth Avenue at 92nd Street. The Museum is free on Saturdays.
