How to Get the Perfect Shave
Here’s how to get the perfect shave at home or at your local barber shop. (Photo: Jon Paterson)
The end of November means it’s time to swap your autumn oranges for holiday reds, but it also means the conclusion of No-Shave-November and Movember — a time where men united in growing out their mustaches, beards, and for some, less of a beard and more a patchy shadow. No doubt some of us look best with a little extra fuzz, but for some, it’s time to pick up the razor and part with the hair.
There is an art to a great shave; something beyond what many of us learned as we watched our dads shave in the mirror growing up. Thankfully, there has been a resurgence of independent and unique barbershops around the country to help guide you on the quest for the perfect shave. We spent some time talking to these barbers to get their tips and tricks that will bring you from Paul Bunyan to Paul Newman.
Prep work
“The preparations for a shave is just as important as the shave itself, post shower is always best if possible, a hot towel or a proper face scrub should get you setup,” says Rob McMillen of Blind Barber in New York City. He stresses that a great shave at home can be accomplished in three easy steps: Cleanse, shave, and hydrate. “Ultimately you want to cleanse and warm the skin so it is ready for the shave itself.”
Greg Karris at Fellow Barber in New York City also suggests a cold water rinse pre-shave to help keep your whiskers stiff so your razor can cut the hairs more accurately. “This also avoids the redness and irritation people get when using warm water,” he says. “Tea tree oil in a hot towel is a great way to prep your face for a shave.”
McMillen suggest prepping the skin with oil, like Prospector Co.’s Miss Annie Jones Shaving Oil ($22) to warm and lubricate the skin before you start shaving. “Of course a proper shave cream will help lift the hairs from the face and prepare it for the shave,” he says.
If you’re not into oils, you aren’t alone. Karris feels pre-shave oils are more of a personal preference. “Fellow Barber’s After Shave Lotion ($24) actually makes for a great lubricant and pre-shave,” he tells us. “Of course followed by Fellow Barber’s Shaving Cream ($20). Be sure to keep the hairs lifted off the skin by rubbing shaving cream in a circular motion. Make sure your blade is sharp; if using a disposable, use the blade no more than twice in one week.”
McMillen at work at the Blind Barber in New York City. (Photo: Blind Barber)
Start with some stubble
If you did your best in growing out a longer beard this last season, McMillen recommends bringing that beard down to at least 1/8 inch in order to get the best shave from your razor. If you don’t have a ruler handy, he says to think of “stubble length” as a good gut check. It might be helpful to invest in a pre-shave oil to soften up that scruff.
Let the blade do the work
Always be mindful of the pressure you are placing on the razor. “Most guys apply too much pressure with the razor itself, be sure to let the blade do the work and shave with the growth pattern of the hair,” cautions McMillen. “The most important thing to remember when shaving is to treat it as a process, not a chore. Taking your time and understanding the proper steps will lead to a great shave and healthy skin.” And always shave with cold water.
Don’t skip the aftershave
An aftershave is an important player in closing up your shave routine. “Our Blind Barber Watermint Gin Aftershave Soother ($26) does a great job to replenish the skin and seal the pores,” says McMillen. The idea here is not just cooling down the skin, but also hydrating the face post-shave. For some extra TLC, Karris says to apply a cool towel with some lavender oil to the face post-shave to help sooth and calm the skin.
Inside Fellow Barber’s Williamsburg shop. (Photo: Fellow Barber)
Leave it to a pro
If you rather put your shave in someone else’s hands, Gabriel Arrazola at Lyn-Lake Barbershop in Minneapolis says to pay attention to pricing, and make sure to do your research when seeking a professional shave. Not all stylists are licensed barbers, and not every barber will feel comfortable performing a straight edge shave. Call ahead, make sure this is a service they offer and get pricing. Arrazola’s shave start at $20, and you will find some barbers start well over $50.
Karris agrees that a monthly shave is worth the splurge. “Not only are you shaving your facial hair, you are scraping the dead skin off of your face,” he says. “Invest in a professional shave once a month, and your face will be less acne prone!”
Related:
The Low-Maintenance Guide to Growing a Beard
