How to Pull Off the Dior Runway’s Black Lips in the Real World
Hello, darkness, my old friend. When it comes to the latest look for lips, black is back.
At Dior’s recent ready-to-wear fall 2016 show, all eyes were on the models’ mouths, as purplish-black lips reigned. The vampy pouts were topped with a layer of gloss and complemented with clumpy, exaggerated lashes and pale complexions for a look that delivered the drama.
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But Dior hasn’t been the only designer to opt for raven shades on the runway this season. The wine-stained pouts at Rodarte’s RTW event and the chic, onyx lips at Rihanna’s Fenty x Puma show echoed this high-impact lip look, but with a matte finish.
Photo: Imaxtree
Vampy kissers are nothing new, though. Just a few years ago, the fall 2012 runway shows of designers like Yves Saint Lauren and Gucci boasted juicy bordeaux lips. In fact, the long, storied history of ultra-dark lips can be traced back to Roaring Twenties silent-film star Clara Bow, who often used black lipstick to accentuate her famous bow-shaped pout — and made dark lips a staple of flapper style.
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Afraid your obsidian lips will read less screen siren and more Robert Smith from the Cure? Take heed: It’s decidedly doable to achieve a raven mouth that’s glam, not Goth. We asked professional makeup artists to show us how to transition dark lips from the runway to real life.
Photo: Imaxtree
“It’s important to remember that makeup for couture fashion shows is meant to be fantasy, not reality,” makeup artist David Maderich, who has painted the faces of celebs like Gisele Bündchen and Kate Hudson, tells Yahoo Beauty. “That said, many runway looks work their way down to the everyday woman in a softened and wearable version.” Makeup artist Keri Berman adds his own inspiration, telling Yahoo Beauty, “Makeup is fun, so don’t be afraid to be bold!” Here are Maderich’s and Berman’s tips for making the dark lip your own.
Modify your lip shade: The Dior look can be ultra wearable and nearly foolproof if you opt for a dark eggplant or burgundy instead of jet black, advises Maderich. Berman also suggests watching your tone. For a Dior-inspired lip that still isn’t too harsh for the real world, try a dark intense lipstick but with a berry undertone vs. a black or blue,” which can veer in a Goth direction.
Photo: Getty Images
Apply with precision: The secret to real-world wear is to use a very sharp matching lip pencil for precise application that won’t smudge. A “lip lock” product (or loose powder) around the edges of the lip will ensure the color does not bleed. “Believe me, once this look gets messy, it’s not pretty,” says Maderich.
Get pretty in pink: While Maderich thinks it’s smart to take your cue from the simple complexions on the Dior runway, he notes that there’s a fine line between neutral and Goth. To combat the “dead white face,” it’s important to use a hint of pink blush to give your face “a touch of life.”
Lighten up your lashes: Models at the Dior show sported layers and layers of mascara for an intentionally clumpy look to match their edgy pouts. But while clumpy lashes are all the rage in high fashion, real life calls for a toned-down eye effect to balance out a dark lip, according to Maderich. “I mean, unless you want to walk around looking like you got caught in the rain,” he says, “admire this look from afar.”
Photo: Imaxtree
Accentuate your lids: While the Dior models sported neutral lids, Berman suggests “a wash of light eyeshadow all over the lid and under the lash line. This will appear soft and balance the lip.”
Skip the dark brow: With a dark lip, “elegantly groomed eyebrows” trump the trendy penciled-in brow.
So what products should you use? Dior’s girls wore the brand’s new shade, Poison, for the Rouge Dior Lipstick line. Diorshow Pro Liner Waterproof kept the lipstick in place. For the everyday woman with the everyday budget, we recommend Urban Decay Matte Revolution Lipstick in Blackmail for a flat look, and Make Up for Ever Artist Plexi-Gloss in Beetle to bring on the shine. For the highest shine on the tightest budget, try Wet n Wild MegaLast Lip Color in Vamp It Up.
Top photo: Getty Images
