Makeup Artist Master Class: How to Use Pigment
MAC pigments can become your new favorite beauty basics with the right technique (Photo: Henry Leutwyler)
Many women fear certain beauty products—bronzer, eyeliner, even contour can seem complicated and intimidating. But one that causes mass confusion is pigment. Sold in a vial of highly-concentrated loose color powder, pigment is a highly-versatile makeup tool that’s deceptively easy to use and can take any makeup look into red carpet territory with just a few simple strokes. You just have to know how to use it.
We turned to Romero Jennings, MAC Cosmetics Director of Makeup Artistry, a man known for creating some of the most striking beauty looks from runway to print, for his top tips.
Don’t be intimidated
It’s not as hard to use as you would think. “It’s intimidating because it’s loose, so people aren’t quite sure what to do,” says Jennings. “But pigment can enhance, highlight and contour the face, giving it a professional, star-like quality.”
Buy the right color for you
If you’re new to using pigment, try using a flesh-based tone to amp an everyday look first. “Start with a pigment close to your skin tone with smaller shimmer particles. Larger sparkles are amazing for evening, but avoid them for daytime. Metallic rosy gold or rosy nude are gorgeous on everyone; Vanilla, Pearl and Luna work for fair to medium skin tones, and Bronze is great for darker skin “
Use the right brush
The key to getting the right look is using the proper tool. “In the 70’s and 80’s, people would use a sponge-tip applicator for broad strokes, but in order not to look dated you want to make more of a tapping motion with a firm, soft brush like the MAC #224 Tapered Blending Brush ($32). Think ‘tap and swirl’ when applying.”
It’s easier than you think
Ready to try it? Steady your hand, and just go slowly. “Just dab a little onto the brush, and then immediately onto the back of your hand. Once you’ve created the transparency you want on the back of your hand, close the container.”
Apply with confidence
You have to apply it like you mean it or mistakes can happen. “Be sure to apply where your face naturally reflects light (like the T-zone,) particularly around the nostrils. Then, apply to high points of the face: ball of the eyelid, tops of cheekbones, brow bones, Cupid’s bow, and a touch on the chin. A small stripe down the center of the nose right between the eyes helps the high point of the nose stand out in photos. If you have a prominent nose, you don’t want to add too much, but even a little is gorgeous. Your face will look lit from within.”
A little goes a long way…
This is the most cost effective beauty buy ever. “You will probably never finish the pigment container you buy today. You only need a little. Don’t overdo it. Build slowly and use restraint; it can get out of hand quickly if you’re not paying attention. “If you add pigment all over the face, it can it look like you’ve been outside sweating, and it makes nostrils look really greasy. Used sparingly, it can look very natural in photos; it’s a key product in the “no makeup” glowing look you’ve seen from the runways.”
Advanced moves
You can use it to enhance eyeliner and pretty much any eyeshadow you already have. “You can run reflective pigment right along the top of eyeliner to make it look three dimensional. Metallic pigment really captures light; it seems subtle when you’re applying it, but when you take a picture with a flash, it’s like a piece of jewelry. You can also add a pop of color with a touch of colored pigment to either corner of the eye over your existing color. Because the color is so true, it really stands out.”
Use it everywhere
“You can also dust it over your body, like your collarbones if you’re in a strapless dress. Choose a pigment that isn’t too glittery, like a more brilliant version of your skin tone. Just watch the décolleté: too much can make you look overly tan. Brushing a stripe down the center of the shin after moisturizing makes legs look amazing.”
Related:
How a Celebrity Makeup Artist Picks a Beauty Look for the Red Carpet
