The Secret to Maintaining and Loving Curly Hair? A Great Haircut
This is how to get a curly haircut. (Photo: Getty)
As the only person in my family with curly hair, I spent most of my life completely in the dark about how to style and care for my hair. It was a long, difficult journey, but I can now proudly say I love my ‘do. It really all comes down to one simple factor. You can try out as many serums, creams, and updos as you want — nothing will help you master your curls as well as a good haircut.
Alexis Brooks’ first good haircut. (Photo: Courtesy of Alexis Brooks)
I grew up in Iowa. Have you ever been to Iowa? There is not a lot happening in Iowa, and very few magazines that spoke about curly hair care. For a young fashionista growing up in the ‘80s and ‘90s, the curly divas on MTV were my gateway to fashion and beauty. I scrunched and moussed to look like Madonna, but wound up with huge, super-tight curls. Then I cut my hair short like Whitney Houston in her video for “I Wanna Dance With Somebody,” and was stuck with a curl-free poofy bowl cut. I couldn’t figure out why I didn’t look like them. This conundrum would continue for most of my life. Even when I went to fancy salons it was always a bust, resulting in being sold a new product that was supposed to solve everything.
Writer Alexis Brooks as a child with curly hair. (Photo: Alexis Brooks)
I moved around a lot, and with that came the old rigmarole of finding a hairdresser. Finally as a 28-year-old in New Zealand, a no nonsense, curly haired friend recommended hers. A tattooed, young guy named Rowan Duley greeted me at my appointment. We had a conversation I had never had with a stylist before. In a gentle way, he explained why my picture wasn’t going to work: My texture was different. A revelation! We proceeded to discuss all of the myths I thought someone with curly hair couldn’t have without looking tragic —bangs, layers, volume —and finally, I got a haircut I wanted! It was modern, easy to manage, didn’t need any product, and most importantly, it made me look like the best version of me. After about two months, I noticed my curls getting frizzy, and the need to put it in a ponytail was back. I returned to Rowan, and voila! My wonderful style was back, like magic. I have strictly maintained a two-month time frame between haircuts ever since, and I still don’t need or use any products.
Writer Alexis Brooks’ teenage disaster hair, inspired by Drew Barrymore. (Photo: Courtesy of Alexis Brooks)
Hollywood legend Joan Crawford once said, “I think that the most important thing a woman can have — next to talent, of course — is her hairdresser.” Meeting Rowan was a game changer for me. I ended up moving cities several times since I met Rowan, and there have been a few disasters, but I’ve managed to find some really talented stylists. One of them being Jill McArthur, senior stylist at the Karcher Salon in Greenpoint, Brooklyn and Regional Davines Artistic Team member. She cuts a diverse range of hair types and styles and everyone comes out looking like their best selves, knowing and understanding what’s realistic for their hair. The best part? Both Rowan and Jill charge under $100 for haircuts, proving you don’t need to empty your wallet for an amazing style.
Alexis Brooks happy with her haircut nowadays. (Photo: Courtesy of Alexis Brooks)
I know I’m not alone in my long struggle to figure out my hair, so I got some pointers directly from Jill to showcase the type of helpful answers you should be getting. Hopefully you, too, find the Rowan or Jill in your town.
Communicating with your hairdresser
“Pictures, photos, Pinterest boards — they’re all great ways to give us a visual into what someone is drawn to,” says McArthur. “What you show us might not work for you, but it gives me information about why a client likes what they show me.”
How to ensure your stylist is a curly hair expert
“Most salons have different tiers and levels of stylist, and it’s usually based on years of experience,” says McArthur, who says even over her 15 years of styling curls she’s still constantly learning. “Salons do usually offer free consultations, so hesitant clients can come in and talk with their hairstylist, get a sense of the plan of action, and then enjoy the service even more.”
Finding a modern haircut for curly hair
“There’s no accurate forecast, but we have been seeing curly fringe,” says McArthur. Most stylists avoid cutting bangs on curly hair, because the front often has the tightest curl, but she says it can be done. “With the right length and shape, it adds so much style and interest to someone’s look, without losing tons of length overall. Getting bangs can be a huge deal for any hair texture, so with curly hair, dry cutting for length is extremely important here.”
Try getting a haircut on dry hair
“Cutting curly hair is almost completely visual, so working with it dry is the best way of seeing what it’s up to, not just by way of how long it is, but also its shape and density,” says McArthur.
Layers may not be for you
“There are certain hair types, usually very fine, thin hair, that can achieve fuller shapes without having any layers,” says McArthur. “Just because someone doesn’t have layers, doesn’t mean they have boring hair. Hair can have shape and interest, without being layered.”
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