2 husband-and-wife-owned Phoenix restaurants land on Esquire's list of best new spots in US

Esquire magazine just released its 41st anniversary Best New Restaurants in America list and two downtown Phoenix restaurants made the cut.

This year, food writers Jeff Gordinier, Joshua David Stein, Omar Mamoon, and Esquire's lifestyle and culture director, Kevin Sintumuang, ranked 41 of their favorite restaurants from California to Maine. Chilte and Lom Wong shared the spotlight with New York's Ilis, founded by Mads Refslund, a cofounder of Noma, which was considered the best restaurant in the world for many years.

"(W)e’re all the beneficiaries of a culinary moment that revels in raw honesty," wrote Sintumuang. "The collective dining experience right now is visceral, vulnerable, downright weird at times—and so very human."

Lom Wong and Chilte both pay homage to the owners' cultures. The latter combines the flavors of Mexico and Southern US, while the former highlights regional Thai cuisine.

"Honest innovation doesn’t always work in the kitchen, but when it does, it’s like rocket fuel for the soul," Sintumuang wrote. "You leave not just full, not just filled with delight, but with a spark. It’s a rare thing, but it’s worth chasing. Consider this your map."

Chilte went from food truck to national acclaim

Chilte was started as a food truck by Lawrence "L.T." Smith and his now wife, Aseret Arroyo, who brings her Sinaloan culture to the mix. In February 2023, the couple opened their first brick-and-mortar at the Egyptian Motor Hotel in downtown Phoenix.

Chilte is short for chiltepin peppers. "Small but very powerful," Arroyo said, "Similar to how we started and what we continue to live by, small but mighty."

Since opening its doors, Chilte has become exceedingly popular with national media. Bon Appetit included it on its list of "24 Best New Restaurants of 2023" and Mashed on its list of "11 Best New US Restaurants To Try In 2023."

Joshua David Stein gave nods to a few dishes on the menu, including hoja santa quesadilla, which he described as "Oaxacan flavor steroids." For JDS, "chef Lawrence 'LT' Smith brings a carnal joy to new Mexican cuisine with Chilte." He ended with, "Each bite is a wonder."

Arroyo saw their inclusion on the list as a light at the end of the tunnel. "It's been a rough year of lessons, but it feels good when these magazines also reassure our vision."

Details: 765 Grand Ave., Phoenix. 602-807-5225, chiltephx.com.

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Lom Wong started as a pop-up and now is expanding

Another husband-and-wife venture, James Beard Award semifinalists Alex and Yotaka “Sunny” Martin opened their restaurant in 2020 as a popup before moving into their brick-and-mortar in 2022. The Martins recently expanded into the adjacent space formerly occupied by Khla bar and have opened a new concept, Mr. Baan's Bar and Mookata.

“The idea is that we cook for you like you're our family, and being really sincere to the people who have really honored us to cook their food,” Sunny said. “‘My family doesn't say 'hello, how are you,' we say 'have you eaten?'"

The regional menu is divided into thirds: one-third from central Thailand, one-third from Sunny's mother and grandmother from Chiang Rai. Moklen specialties make the last third.

"From one angle, Lom Wong is simply a very good restaurant," wrote JDS. "From another angle—after one or two shots of ya dong, a powerful Thai moonshine—it’s proof of, if not a divine being, then at least the benevolent tilt of the universe."

When asked about the inclusion in Esquire, Alex Martin said: "We're thrilled that Moklen cuisine and culture was highlighted in national publications. We're grateful for our team and community, both at the restaurant and in Thailand."

Details: 218 E. Portland St., Phoenix. lomwongaz.com. Follow Lom Wong on social media at instagram.com/lomwongaz.

Reach the reporter at [email protected]. Follow @banooshahr on X, formerly known as Twitter.

This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Chilte and Lom Wong in Phoenix make Esquire best new restaurants list