New Black executive chef at Hunterdon County wine bar is breaking barriers

There are no Black winery owners in New Jersey.

Throughout the country, that figure inches to a mere 1%.

And in a survey of more than 3,000 people working in the wine industry, just 2% identified as Black.

But Cree Wine Company in Hunterdon County is helping to bring those numbers up. In June, the wine bar located in the former historic Perryville Inn in Union Township named Kadon Barnwell as executive chef.

“Kadon’s influence will definitely help break local barriers and diversify the industry,” said Cree Wine Company owner Christopher Cree. “I think that Kadon's talent, drive, professionalism, accomplishments and passion are great sources of inspiration to anyone who wishes to enter into the culinary arts.”

Barnwell, who previously served as chef de cuisine at the Wine Spectator Grand Award-winning Pluckemin Inn in Bedminster, now oversees development of the new pairings menu, as well as special dining and catered private events at Cree Wine Company.

“My main focus is to make things that are seasonal and reflections of my past experiences and culture,” said Barnwell. “I want food and wine to go hand-in-hand, and be a nice dance between the two.”

Some of the dishes Barnwell has already added to the menu include shrimp and grits; calamari with chili miso and cilantro; ricotta gnocchi with corn, crab and tomato; squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta; and sake poached scallop – “a dish you would be happy with at a three-star Michelin restaurant,” Cree said.

Barnwell’s mother is Honduran, his father is Guyanese, and he grew up eating in his stepmother’s kitchen, who is Filipino.

“I ate everything growing up, and I was never picky about anything,” Barnwell said. “I want to invite the flavors that are comforting and homey to me while making them approachable to people that are not used to such strong flavors or out-there ingredients.”

Some of those ingredients include fish sauce, shrimp paste and fermented vegetables – all hallmarks of Filipino cuisine. He also uses Indian spices, curries, goat and grains, which are often found in Guyanese cuisine.

“A lot of my dishes are Asian-inspired, but I also use a lot of traditional French methods, and then ingredients from other cultures to create a balance,” Barnwell said.

At home, Barnwell eats plant-based meals, and he wants to bring that element to Cree Wine Company by sometimes using tofu or creating vegetarian entrees.

Looking back:Cree Wine Company to open at historic Hunterdon Perryville Inn

While working at the Pluckemin Inn, Barnwell assisted in many of the restaurant’s wine dinners. Before that, he started his culinary career as a prep cook at the Raritan Valley Country Club, after being promoted from dishwasher. Even during his dishwasher days, he knew his future was in elevated cuisine.

“I always had the dream of doing very high fine dining and working towards Michelin-starred restaurants,” Barnwell said. "Wine was always been in the back of my mind … but the Pluckemin Inn definitely got me to focus on it and see the possibility of the pairing of food and wine.”

He knows that wine is a white-dominated industry — although he’s not sure why. He’s introduced his own family to different wines, so they can see the range of varieties and how they can be paired with food.

“I definitely noticed that wine culture is something that some people are brought up with,” Barnwell said. “I only have a few family members who are into wine and understand where wines are produced, flavor profiles and pairings. I’m trying to debunk that myself. How come we don’t fully immerse ourselves in wine culture within the Black community?”

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Barnwell said he’s never experienced racism or been treated differently. He attributes any wide-eyed glances to his age — he just turned 25, pretty young for an executive chef in the world of high-end cooking.

“I’m the guy that likes to stay behind the scenes, so people didn’t really know who I was up until now that I’m at Cree Wine Company,” Barnwell said. “I feel like when people did see me, they didn’t believe I was doing what I was doing. But I don’t think it was a race thing. I just think it was because of my age. People are more surprised that I’m doing what I’m doing, whether that be for who I am or how old I am.”

Go: 167 Perryville Road, Union Township; 908-200-7772, creewineco.com.

Jenna Intersimone has been a staff member at the USA Today Network New Jersey since 2014, after becoming a blogger-turned-reporter following the creation of her award-winning travel blog. To get unlimited access to her stories about food, drink and fun, please subscribe or activate your digital account today.

Contact: [email protected] or @JIntersimone.

This article originally appeared on MyCentralJersey.com: Black chef at Hunterdon NJ wine bar is breaking barriers