This family-owned Phoenix food truck has stellar tacos, ceviche and a perfect Sonoran dog
The unassuming location makes the fire engine red of the El Cevichazo truck even more attention-grabbing. So, for those living nearby, like myself, it makes you wonder how you possibly could have missed it. In my case, it was because the truck only operates on weekends and I’d spent a number of them hunkered down.
Drawn in by a handwritten sign advertising Sonoran hot dogs and tacos de cabeza, and the appearance of a scattering of tables and chairs covered by an umbrella, I finally took notice and made a visit earlier this year. And I've been back a few times since with family and friends in tow.
El Cevichazo is not your usual food truck
The truck is owned and operated by husband-and-wife team Yoan Gonzalez and Yazmin Chavez-Lopez. She comes from Mexico; he's Cuban and does most of the cooking. He said he learned how to cook from his parents and grandparents.
"To them it was important that I know how to feed myself," Gonzalez said, adding, "my wife wanted to bring her food to people."
The pair opened their business as a food stand in the parking lot of El Super on 32nd Street and Thomas Road in March 2023, but it took until November for them to acquire their food truck. Once they did, they found out that El Super doesn't allow food trucks in the parking lot, so they moved to their current location at the corner of Thomas Road and 29th Place.
The owners still have day jobs during the week, Gonzalez works for Proctor and Gamble as a warehouse technician and Chavez-Lopez as a house cleaner, so they operate the truck on the weekends from noon to 10:30 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. They also offer catering with two weeks advanced notice.
What's on the menu at El Cevichazo?
A menu hangs at the bottom of the ordering window, which proudly displays the truck's health grade — a green A. It's well deserved, both the seating areas and inside the truck are spotless.
All the salsas are made in-house by Chavez-Lopez and the menu includes cabeza and pastor tacos ($3 each), Sinaloa-style ceviche de camaron ($10 - $20 depending on size), tosti ceviche ($15), Sonoran hot dogs ($5) and arroz con leche ($4) for dessert. To drink, they serve Mexican Coke and aguas frescas.
The must-try dish at El Cevichazo
The food is made to order, so it takes a little time to prepare it.
I ordered taco de cabeza and pastor, shrimp ceviche and a Sonoran hot dog.
One of my companions was head-over-heels for the bright ceviche. Made with shrimp, tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, cilantro, hot peppers and lots of lime and tomato juice, topped with avocado and served with crunchy tortillas, it was a refreshing bite.
In our group of three, everybody loved the meltingly tender cabeza tacos, served simply atop two corn tortillas and topped with onions and cilantro. Cucumbers and lime wedges on the side added freshness, while the housemade salsa let us customize the heat.
It was good. Really good. But the dish I can't stop thinking about (and keep going back to order), is the Sonoran doggo.
Made with a bacon wrapped hot dog that had just the right snappy bite, it came topped with tomatoes, onions, mustard, avocado salsa, sour cream and Parmesan cheese, served with a roasted chiles gueros or banana pepper on the side.
That red truck has become the adult version of the ice cream truck of my childhood. Even though I know when it will be back, I can't help but keep an eye out for it, and find myself counting the days to my Sonoran hot dog fix.
Visit El Cevichazo
The El Cevichazo food truck is parked at the corner of 29th Place and Thomas every Saturday and Sunday from noon to 10:30 p.m.
Details: 2936 E. Thomas Rd., Phoenix. 602-919-7782, @elcevichazo_phx on Instagram.
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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: El Cevichazo food truck in Phoenix serves a don't-miss Sonoran hot dog
