I'm in love with the burgers at this 7-seat, counter-service joint in Shorewood
I’ve professed my love for plenty of burgers in my day.
I’ve swooned for the Saint Bibiana burger (1327 E. Brady St.), fell hard for the old-school hamburger at Mazos (3146 S. 27th St.) and crushed on the Camino burger so deeply I’ve stopped myself from doodling it on restaurant napkins surrounded by hearts.
Forgive me if this makes me come off as something of a burger floozy, but there’s another entrant I'm adding to my “burgers that have my heart” list, and that’s the Crave Burger at Crave Cafe, 3592 N. Oakland Ave., Shorewood.
Drive by and you might catch me outside in the small parking lot, boombox hoisted overhead, making a grand romantic gesture for my brand-new crush.
You’d do right ordering any of Crave Cafe’s offerings, but its namesake is something special: a 1/3-pound 100% Angus beef patty that’s lightly seasoned and pink and juicy in the middle, cooked medium by default. It’s topped with melty Swiss cheese, a pile of peppery arugula and rich caramelized onions. On the bottom bun is a swipe of something special, the pièce de résistance: white truffle aioli.
Now, I know truffle can be alienating, but its richness, funk and earthiness only oomphs up the umami factor, and encapsulated in a creamy aioli sauce, it elevates the experience from a down-and-dirty, darn-good burger to a more fancified, pinkies-up parade of flavor.
It can be a little intense; if you’re curious to try it but are worried about it overpowering your burger, ask for the aioli on the side for full control.
Try to control yourself around that bun, too. A bouncy brioche beauty that’s so glossy on top you can practically see your reflection. It’s crisp and brown along the edges, creating a toasty barrier that prevents any sort of sog. Squeeze it and it’ll crackle just a bit under your fingertips. Bite in and taste the faintest brush of butter.
The Crave Burger is a little pricey at $9.75, but it’s a hefty two-hander and worth it for the quality ingredients. If it’s not your style, Crave Cafe has eight burgers on its menu, from its standard Hamburger ($5.75) to its kimchi-topped Korean BBQ Burger ($8.75) to its Hamburguesa ($7.75), a stacked burger towering with standard cheeseburger fixin’s, plus pickled jalapenos and a smoky-spicy chipotle aioli that drips down the sides and pools on your burger paper, practically begging to be swiped up with a french fry or two.
I know the burger is the topic of the day, but as a certified french fry freak, I can’t leave out Crave’s stellar spuds, thin and just-golden with a flick of salt and an addictive crisp. I say this with all reverence: They’re like McDonald’s fraternal twin.
They come spilling out of a teeny white takeout container; a cute touch that makes for an Instagram-worthy presentation.
I like the plain fries plenty ($2.75/small, $4.75/large), but you can have fun with ’em, too, by going for the seasoned varieties like Ranch or Cajun ($3.25/small, $5.75/large), both of which add spectacular flavor to the already standout fry.
Now, before you rush there, take note: Crave Cafe is a hole-in-the-wall burger joint with all of seven chairs inside and a modest, four-table patio outside. I’ve snagged a seat on a few recent visits when I’ve dined during off hours, watching a steady stream of takeout customers file in and out.
Don’t set your heart on dining in on a sunny Saturday afternoon; but if you’re cool with carryout, the crush-worthy Crave Burger is the kind you’d be proud to bring home to your family.
More information: Crave is open 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, with online ordering available until 8:30 p.m. For more info and to order online, see cravecafe.carry-out.com.
This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Crave Cafe's burgers had our critic swooning from her first bite
