Michelin-star chef dinners are rare events in RI. Here's your chance to indulge.
It's a rarity in Rhode Island to eat a meal prepared by a Michelin-starred chef. We simply don't have any.
Michelin star ratings go back more than 120 years in Europe. They didn't take hold in the United States until the 21st century and then only in New York initially. Over the last 15 years, Michelin has expanded to rate restaurants in California, Chicago, Florida and Washington, D.C.
New England might as well not exist as far as the dining star rating system is concerned.
That could change. There's talk, just talk mind you, of making all the U.S. a region, said GianPaolo Cefaliello, lead sommelier at Ocean House. That would mean Michelin Guide inspectors could show up in any state to critique a restaurant.
But don't hold your breath. For now, chefs, restaurants and diners will have to be content with the status quo.
I share that information to explain why news that Michelin-starred chef Shaun Hergatt would be chef in residence at Ocean House's Coast restaurant demanded attention. Those with the desire, passion and budget can literally get a taste of what Michelin deems excellence. But only five more nights, through May 21.
The first of this special series of six-course dinners was on Wednesday, May 10, and it was pretty spectacular.
Hergatt gathered ingredients that were both familiar and exotic. He layered flavors and switched between hot and cold courses. He challenged ideas of what was edible and what wasn't. His dishes elevated humble asparagus and chocolate. He celebrated the local with Ningret oysters and made striped bass taste as rich as a bowl of pure cream. He brought in Japanese sea urchin and dared serve Santa Barbara prawns. He plated a course of raw seafood on rocks. His Australian lamb duo melted in your mouth. Every dish was beautiful.
The chef is a native of rural Queensland, Australia. His first success was at the Ritz Carlton in Sydney. His Michelin stars were earned in New York City. He opened SHO Shaun Hergatt in the financial district in 2009 and received two Michelin stars. In 2013, he was executive chef at Juni and earned a Michelin star there. Both are now closed.
His current work has him traversing the country, consulting and cooking. His newest restaurant is Vestry, in SoHo.
The wine pairings were beautiful and Cefaliello clearly reveled in the collaboration. He too, set out to surprise with the unexpected Lebanese wine, 2015 Chateau Musar, Cabernet Sauvignon blend from the Bekaa Valley.
The six courses ($250) and wine pairings ($250) are a luxury, no doubt. But such a meal is an adventure, not unlike a journey to a new place.
Seatings at Coast are available between 5:30 and 9 p.m. on the evenings of Wednesday, May 17 through Sunday, May 21. Learn more at oceanhouseri.com/shaunhergatt.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Michelin-star chef Shaun Hergatt cooks at Ocean House, Westerly, RI
