This Pensacola restaurant was once a church. Now it's named a best restaurant by USA TODAY
What once brought the Pensacola community together to worship as Mount Olive Baptist Church, built in 1928, now draws friends and families together as the dining destination Brother Fox.
This week, the Pensacola restaurant made national news: Along with 46 other establishments from across the country, it was included on the 2024 USA TODAY Restaurants of the Year list.
“I am deeply honored to be recognized on the national stage as one of USA TODAY’s Restaurants of the Year 2024,” Head Chef Darian Hernandez said. “This achievement is a testament to the hard work and dedication of our team, and we are thrilled to share our culinary passion with the nation.”
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What makes Brother Fox stand out?
Nestled in the historic Old East Hill neighborhood, Brother Fox is the cornerstone to Lily Hall, a building that prior to its renovation was on Pensacola’s Seven to Save list after sustaining damage during Hurricane Ivan. While keeping the bones intact, Nashville-based Stahlman Hospitality preserved the beauty of the building’s original shape, arches and pillars while converting the space into a boutique lodging house, Spanish-inspired restaurant, bar and speakeasy.
Care and attention to detail went into every stage of the property’s design. The custom-made fragrance of bergamot and ginger fills Lilly Hall. A glowing red light outside the speakeasy indicates when it's open. Honeycomb ice stamps mark special cocktails. Fictional typewritten letters hang on the walls.
This same diligence translates into the restaurant’s unique concept, menu and dishes.
While Head Chef Darian Hernandez is a rising talent and recent champion on Food Network’s Chopped, he is also a Pensacola native, and Brother Fox’s dishes were inspired by regional influences. The menu was a shared effort between Hernandez and Nashville-based restaurateur Terry Raley.
As a tribute to the city of Pensacola, which is recognized as America’s first non-continuous settlement, the Brother Fox menu is built around the open-fire, old-world way of cooking, from cabbage baked in embers to coal-fired whole chicken. It also incorporates elements close to Hernandez’s roots and memories of backyard barbecues. Popular entrees like the carne asada can be ordered in sharable sizes for the table, along with select cocktails, such as the bathtub gin and sangria brought out by the pitcher.
What to order at Brother Fox
Prime Skirt Steak Asada for Two: This sharable, wood-fired carne asada plate comes out with house-made tortillas, grilled onion and piquilla pepper and is perfect for a feast amongst family and friends. You can get a sense of the flavor from the tantalizing smell of the fire just outside the patio doors. Chimichurri and vinegar Basque sauces come on the side, but are destinations of their own.
Charbroiled oysters: Prepared with a garlic compound, butter and beer brine, the Gulf Coast iconic food adds a twist with its rich and smokey flavor. Served by the half or whole dozen, the biggest complaint by diners is not ordering more.
Low Country Boil “A la Espana”: This dish takes the cake as most original on the menu. It was designed by Hernandez as a Spanish take on a low country boil starring Florida Gulf shrimp with chorizo and marbled potatoes. It’s unique with a broth so good you can drink it. The boil is inspired by Hernandez’s family gatherings.
See the full menu here.
Did you know?
Not only does Hernandez have connections to the Food Network, but diverse culinary experience spanning from Miami to Atlanta to Washington D.C. to New York City. He regularly mixes up the menu with themed dinners featuring curated menus, inviting other celebrated chefs to collaborate with him. These one-time-only events are worth attending if you can make the trip, and they are regularly announced on the Brother Fox Facebook page. For those looking for a more casual experience, Brother Fox launched a “Fuege Hour” menu in December that is offered from 5-6 p.m. daily with deals on a feature burger, tapas, sweets, house wine, draft beer and house old fashions. This is the perfect opportunity to sample some of the restaurant’s best tapas at about half the regular price.
Details: Brother Fox, 415 N. Alcaniz St., Pensacola, Florida; 850-208-6913, brotherfoxsisterhen.com.
This article originally appeared on Pensacola News Journal: Brother Fox restaurant review: Everything you need to know