At Pyro, a design-first new Phoenix restaurant, Japanese-inspired dishes are absolute fire

Tucked in the Grove on 44th Street and Camelback, the aesthetic allure of Pyro is front and center. The gold sign featuring the restaurant's name is nearly hidden behind the lush greenery of the wood beam and tile entrance. Past the patios, which have more foliage than chairs, the restaurant interior is a sensory experience, drawing the eye to a neon snake on a mirrored wall, then to the deep, rich colors of the red leather, blue velvet and floral fabrics that seemed to adorn every seating area. Beyond the dining room sits an open kitchen, built around the large hearth that inspired the name.

Pyro was opened by Flagship Restaurant Group, the company behind Palma and Cham Pang Lanes in downtown Phoenix, with interior design by AvroKo in San Francisco. According to Ryan Walley, corporate research and development chef for Flagship, "the menu itself has been designed to be an approachable, upscale dining experience, using many Japanese ingredients and techniques, mixed with our western fundamentals with bistro style cooking."

At the helm is executive chef Charles Glaze from San Antonio, who brings a wealth of experience from places such as The Granary, Apis and Austin restaurant group New Waterloo.

“At the end of the day all we are doing is celebrating the ingredients, the people and the experience,” Glaze said in a statement to The Arizona Republic.

The story that inspired this design-forward restaurant

According to Greg Bradshaw, co-founder and principal of AvroKO, the idea behind Pyro was to transport guests to a modern articulation of a traditional Japanese home. Hence multiple areas are separated by a series of permeable screens with chandeliers lending a classic, opulent feel. Bradshaw explained that the concept is built around a fictional 1950s Japanese supper club run by character named "Madam Geisha."

"The design takes on a maximalist sensibility with a variety of patterns and textures throughout the space, including era-inspired fixtures and furnishings, luxurious velvets, floral fabrics, traditional geisha patterns, textiles and accessories that all come together, embracing a space that is decidedly dense and rich," Bradshaw said.

Robb Report named it one of the most stunning dining rooms in America in December 2023.

The wow factor isn't limited to the interior design. On a recent visit, there were fireworks coming out of the kitchen, too.

What to expect at Pyro

During lunch service, indie music played in the background with the volume low enough to allow for easy conversation. The service was excellent and remained so throughout the meal with thoughtful suggestions, guidance and constant care that didn't feel overbearing.

We ordered all the dishes at once and had them delivered to the table as they were ready and the pacing was perfect.

Pyro's menu divides into shared plates, noodles, hearth and sides with a beverage menu of cocktails, beer, wine and sake.

From the share plate section, we ordered the fluke crudo, our server's recommendation, yellowtail sashimi, and Iberico pork skewers.

We skipped the Pyro plates, which included a cheeseburger and crispy chicken sando, and went straight for a dish from the hearth section — whole branzino with pickled ginger shoot, Tokyo turnip and herb salad topped with a lemon-chili vinaigrette and a side of creamy koji rice.

For dessert, I ordered the ube panna cotta and house-made ice cream. Both desserts won points for the chef's restrained use of sugar.

Highlights of the Pyro menu

Of all the simple, beautiful plates, don't skip the fluke.

Sure, it's just a crudo, but the simpler the dish, the more excellent it has to be to stand out. In this case, delicate, fresh pieces of fish were dotted with black lime, fleur de sel, togarashi smoked chili and lime zest and drizzled with nori oil.

The bite was fragrant and floral, light and bright. In Iran, we use whole black limes in slow-simmered stews, so I found it fascinating to see the ground powder used in this application. It added a deep sour note, which I loved against the fresh lime zest. That may be why this dish had a brighter punch than the yellow tail sashimi, which came rolled and topped with orange slices, serrano, pickled ginger shoots, white shoyu, nori oil and cilantro.

Pyro's skewers completely won me over. Iberico pork is prized for the unique flavor, attributed to the Spanish pigs' diet of acorns. Served with pickled daikon and yuzu aioli, the earthy, succulent pork was perfectly balanced by the crunch of the daikon and the acid from the yuzu aioli.

The whole branzino arrived crispy skinned and topped with pink pickled ginger shoots, Tokyo turnip and celery leaf salad and a drizzle of lemon-chili vinaigrette. The tender fish practically melted in my mouth and was punctuated by herbaceous bursts from the salad and tangy vinaigrette. While I'm generally a fan of long-grained rice, Pyro's creamy koji rice was excellent.

I love sweets, and the desserts didn't disappoint. Purple panna cotta arrived in a scalloped bowl, the top dotted with sesame seeds and a scoop of mango lassi. It presented complex layers of texture and flavor, but I would have loved a little less gelatin. The ice cream, however, stole the show.

Three scoops of Japanese sweet potato ice cream were topped with bourbon caramel and sweet potato crunch. I spooned the soft ice cream into my mouth and was momentarily taken aback by a savory hit. What was it? I took another bite. When I knew to expect it, I loved it. According to our server, the pastry chef cold smoked the ice cream, which lent it the unique flavor. Ice creams will rotate and I can't wait to try more.

How to visit Pyro

Even after leaving the restaurant, I continued talking about the meal. It wasn't inexpensive. The food and ambiance are luxurious, with a price tag to match.

Appetizers range from $19 to $26, Pyro plates from $24 to $43, hearth items $39 to $69 and sides are $16 to $19. Desserts run between $11 and $16, while cocktails are $16 to $22, wine ranging from $12 to $40 per glass and sake is $12 to $80.

Plan ahead to avoid sticker shock and allow yourself to be swept up in the fantasy of this anything-but-subtle dining experience.

Details: 4300 E. Camelback Road, Suite 125, Phoenix. pyrophx.com.

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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Date-night Phoenix restaurant Pyro delivers high style, great seafood