What are some things Top Chef's Kristen Kish, Gail Simmons and Tom Colicchio have enjoyed in Wisconsin? Here's what they told us.
When Kristen Kish heard her first season as host of "Top Chef" would be set in Wisconsin, she was excited because she "knew it would feel comfortable." She grew up in neighboring Michigan.
"Knowing that we were in a place that felt familiar and homey to me, by way of Michigan, was really nice," Kish said.
In July, the competition-based cooking show announced it would be filming its 21st season in Milwaukee and Madison this year. It's expected to air in 2024 on Bravo and the Peacock streaming service.
While Kish didn't recall being in the cheese state before filming, judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons have both visited before for other food-related endeavors.
Since getting to town, show personnel have been exploring the state's dining scene and local cuisine in their down time. Yes, that's included ample custard.
"I think people are genuinely excited that we've come to Wisconsin and they want to show off their state — and that's really cool," Simmons said.
On Sept. 24, Kish and Simmons shared on Instagram that their time in Wisconsin had wrapped after nearly seven weeks.
Partway through their visit, Kish, Simmons and Colicchio sat down with the Journal Sentinel. Here are some of the places they said they enjoyed during their free time.
“Before I came here, I really knew very little about Wisconsin," Simmons said. "So when it was announced we’d be here, so many people reached out to say how much we’d love it and that the lake culture and the food culture is so incredible. And they’ve all been right. It’s unlike any place we’ve been before.”
Kristen Kish and Gail Simmons raved about Three Brothers
Simmons has been learning about Wisconsin products beyond what it's well known for, she said, and has taken a special interest in the area's immigrant communities.
"I find the most exciting stories are often being told in those kitchens," she said.
Both Simmons and Kish raved about Three Brothers, which the late Milun Radicevic started in 1956 after he immigrated to the U.S. The restaurant serves homestyle Serbian classics featuring the recipes of Radicevic's late wife, Milunka.
"My wife is half Serbian, so it was a natural place for us to want to go," Kish said.
Milun and Milunka's granddaughter, also named Milunka, co-runs the restaurant with her mom, the owner, and brother.
Some of the most memorable dishes Kish has had in Wisconsin have been from the restaurant, she said, including the stuffed peppers, sarma and chevapchichi. Simmons called the burek — which the restaurant is famous for — "unbelievable."
"Having people that are internationally recognized come and spend the evening with us and enjoy the work that we do, it's very touching," Milunka said. "It's very meaningful for us."
During World War II, Milun fought for Yugoslavia with the resistance movement and was sent to a German concentration camp in northern France, according to Milunka. He managed to escape and was given amnesty after he helped a French platoon that was shot down, she said.
Milun went to England and found sponsorship from a family to come to the U.S., Milunka said. When he got here, he worked as a liquor salesman. A few years later, he bought the now-Three Brothers building, 2414 S. St. Clair St., which he ran as a bar.
Back in their homeland, the Radicevic family had several restaurants, as well as a soda bottling business and winery, Milunka said.
When Milun's wife — who had still been in the former Yugoslavia — was able to join him in the U.S., she transformed the establishment into the restaurant it's known as today.
When Milun fell ill, his son, Branko, and daughter-in-law, Patricia, took over the family business.
"We've been supported by Milwaukee for 66 years," Milunka said. "Can you imagine what that means to our family that we have such a loyal, kind Three Brothers family? That's what we consider everybody that arrives here. It's really a gift. We're very blessed."
'Frozen custard is from the gods'
Milwaukee custard was "a new experience" for Kish.
"I’ve had great ice cream and custard growing up in Michigan, but this is something different," she said. "When I had my first lick of it, it just … didn’t move. It’s so incredibly thick. It’s delicious.”
"Frozen custard is from the gods," Simmons said.
While Simmons feels it's "dangerous" to pick a side in the state's frozen custard wars, she said her favorite has been Leon's, which is Milwaukee's second-oldest custard shop. Both Simmons and Kish have stopped by more than once.
"It's an honor to have celebrities come by the store," said Ron Schneider, Leon's owner. He called it a "treat" to have people held in high regard for what they do visit multiple times.
"It feels good to get some recognition for what you do," Schneider said.
This is far from Leon's first brush with fame. Other famous folks who have come by over the years have included singer-songwriter Neil Diamond, "Happy Days" actor Tom Bosley, TV personality Al Roker, comedian and actor Dom DeLuise, pop crooner Jerry Vale, Milwaukee Brewers and local politicians, according to Schneider.
In 1942, Ron's father Leon opened Leon's, 3131 S 27th St., and the Schneider family has run it ever since.
"Our main focus is frozen custard," Schneider said. "We have a very limited food menu, so our time is spent making sure the frozen custard is the way it should be."
Simmons and Kish have also dabbled with custard from Kopp's, which has locations in Greenfield, Brookfield and Glendale. Simmons said she had the best onion rings she's had in a long time there, and both she and Kish praised the burgers.
Kish said the burger was "so good" and "much larger" than she expected. But, "somehow it just went down in five seconds."
Kish has also made a couple Culver's stops, trying a burger, cheese curds, fries and chicken tenders.
Other restaurants Kristen Kish and Gail Simmons visited in Wisconsin
Also in Milwaukee, Simmons said, she's enjoyed dining at 1033, 1033 S. 1st St., and Birch, 459 E. Pleasant St.
1033 restaurant and wine bar was created by co-owners Rob Levin and Tony Bisciglia of WACH Hospitality and 2A Wine Merchants. They leaned on the talents of Ardent chef-owner Justin Carlisle to develop the menu, and later hired Executive Chef Adam Kemmler to run the kitchen, according to a previous Journal Sentinel report.
The restaurant "blends kitchen-counter comfort with impeccable service for an effortlessly approachable entry to fine dining that somehow feels like home," Journal Sentinel dining critic Rachel Bernhard wrote.
At Birch, Simmons had a "delicious Midwestern feast," which she shared on Instagram.
The meal featured "all the summer things," she said in the caption. That included the marinated summer melon and the Stone Bank Farm tomato salad.
Birch was recently named to The New York Times' annual list of the best restaurants in the U.S.
Kish also mentioned having a "wonderful" meal at Vientiane Noodle Shop, 3422 W. National Ave., and hoped to return. It's known for having some of the best pho in the city.
In Madison, Simmons said, she dined at Tornado Steak House, A Pig in a Fur Coat and Mickies Dairy Bar.
Sailing on Lake Michigan
Kish, who grew up in Grand Rapids, Michigan, said she feels “at home” in Wisconsin, noting she sees similarities in the energy and vibe between the two states. “It feels like everyone around here could be my family,” she said.
And while the people here may feel familial, there’s no beating the real thing. Toward the end of her time in Wisconsin, Kish was joined in Milwaukee by her brother, Jon, who sailed 12 hours across Lake Michigan from Muskegon to visit his sister. He treated Kish and Simmons to an evening sail, and later Colicchio went out on an afternoon sail with him, too.
“I think sailing is a very traditional thing to do in Milwaukee,” Colicchio said. “It seemed so — there were so many sailboats out there!”
But although he’s been out on Lake Michigan, Colicchio, who’s an avid fisherman, said he regretted that he hadn’t yet had a chance to snag a fish while in Wisconsin.
Judges Tom Colicchio and Gail Simmons have previously been to Wisconsin
Colicchio said he visited Milwaukee years ago to do a dinner with Chef Paul Bartolotta for a milestone anniversary of one of Bartolotta's restaurants. Bartolotta is the co-founder and owner of The Bartolotta Restaurants, as well as a two-time James Beard award winner.
Colicchio also came to town to attend the Kohler Food and Wine Festival twice. Simmons said she also traveled to the event a couple times when she worked for Food & Wine magazine.
The festival, set to host its 22nd edition in October, features "distinguished" culinary personalities, immersive culinary experiences, collaborations, live music and more, according to a Destination Kohler news release.
More recently, in 2017, Madison was a stop on Simmons' cookbook tour for "Bringing It Home."
"It's nice to spend a little more time, get to know it more, and really eat all the food," Simmons said. "It's been lovely."
The reception they've gotten in Wisconsin
"Everyone has been so welcoming," Simmons said. "We've gotten to see a lot of the state, you know, a lot of different sides to it, which has been really nice."
"It's been lovely," Colicchio said. "The people have been great. Everybody's really accommodating to the crew."
While show personnel could be "inconspicuous" in the much more populated city of London, where they filmed Season 20, "Top Chef: World All-Stars," they couldn't be "anonymous" here, Simmons said.
"It's flattering," she said. "Everyone's been very generous, very nice. ... Everywhere we go, we tend to travel in packs, so people recognize us quickly."
"It means we're still relevant, people still want to see the show," she said.
Rachel Bernhard of the Journal Sentinel staff contributed to this report.
This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Top Chef Kristen Kish, Gail Simmons talk Milwaukee restaurants, Leon's