At this top Phoenix chef's new Mediterranean restaurant, a simple menu is full of surprises
Chef Claudio Urciuoli drew a loyal following of fans at the woodfire-themed Phoenix Pa'La restaurants, which he parted ways with in the fall of 2022 to focus on Source.
Urciuoli told The Arizona Republic that he wanted a casual Mediterranean restaurant where he would let the quality of ingredients do the talking, which is exactly what's happening at the new venue he soft-opened with co-owner Akshat Sethi at Epicenter in Agritopia in December.
As promised, the restaurant is a no-fuss, no-muss operation. There are no waiters per se. It's a counter-service affair. Just as in Pa'La, Source uses compostable tableware, except for wine glasses. Those are real glass. The simplicity of the space and the service all but guarantees that attention is kept tightly focused on the food.
Source is more than a restaurant, it's a market and community gathering place
When I stopped by on a recent sunny, mid-60-degree day, the retractable doors and windows were open, making the patio and the intimate restaurant into one large airy space.
Inside, there's a market with shelves displaying olive oils, vinegars, pasta and other pantry items, a small bar and an ordering counter. Behind the register, a rack holds loaves of bread: demi baguette, sourdough, ciabatta and focaccia, all the more tempting because of Urciuoli's track record baking at Noble Bread.
In the open kitchen, bannetons (bread-proving baskets) were stacked on top of each other. Bottles of sauces and olive oils were plentiful. Three people, including chef Trevor Routman, moved about seamlessly preparing salads, sandwiches and bowls.
"I want to make the same food I’d make for my family for people," Urciuoli said.
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What's on the menu at Source?
The menu is displayed on four screens behind the counter and is divided into seven sections, with only a few options each.
Starters include a vegetable and cannellini bean soup with house bread; smoked prosciutto, Parmigiano Reggiano and house bread; Controne chickpea hummus, chermoula and za'atar flatbread.
There is one salad of mixed greens with seasonal citrus and fennel to which guests can add a protein.
Sandwiches, served with a side salad, include options like Island Trollers albacore tuna, ham and cheese and a vegetarian made with hummus spread, roasted poblano, mushroom, baby artichoke braised kale and fennel on ciabatta.
House pizza made with mozzarella, tomato, Ferrante spices and Ul'ka extra virgin olive oil and a coppa pizza are the only two options in the pizza section, highlighting the focus on simplicity.
A koshihikari rice bowl seemed like the heartiest offering, made with roasted vegetables, beans, pumpkin seeds, ginger pickled cucumber, nori and togarashi.
The sweets section features two cookies, a pistachio cannoli and individual apple tarts.
Bread is on offer for those who wish to pick up a loaf on their way out.
Beer, wine and nonalcoholic drinks like hibiscus tea and sparkling water are available, both for dine-in guests and to take home.
I ordered the Controne chickpea hummus, a coppa pizza and the rice bowl. And if I had to summarize the meal in two short impressions, they would be: Bread is king here and the seemingly simple dishes offer surprising pops of flavor.
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At Source, simple doesn't mean boring
Controne chickpeas come from Campania, southern Italy. They are smaller in size, have a thinner skin and don't need to soak before cooking. This translated into a lighter albeit textured dip with a deeper flavor. It came speckled with green bits of parsley from tart and herbaceous North African chermoula and was topped with za'atar and a pool of olive oil. The warm flatbread was also sprinkled with za'atar and sesame seeds and featured a crunchy crust that gives way to a tender interior. Dipped in the hummus, it provided the perfect platform for the bursts of herbs, bright olive oil and earthy chickpeas. A little sprinkle of salt made it perfect.
The 10-inch pizza came topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, baby artichoke, oregano and capicollo — a dry-aged Italian salumi made from pork neck and shoulder.
Remember those pops of flavor? In the pie, there was a surprising pop of smokiness in every bite. But the heart and soul of any pizza is the crust, and this presentation was a world apart from the heavy, greasy stuff. The house-made pizza crust is thin with an airy, crisp cornicione that manages to be light and satisfying at the same time.
The koshihikari rice bowl came packed with roasted carrots, Brussels sprouts and mushrooms, dotted with pumpkin seeds and beans and topped with roasted nori ribbons and a sprinkle of togarashi. Here, the surprise factor arose from the play between the seaweed and sweet, tart pickled cucumber.
Even when I'm too full for dessert, I always appreciate a little sweet bite to punctuate my meal. Urciuoli provides just such an option, selling small cubes of creamy hazelnut chocolate topped with sea salt that are a perfect period at the end of a meal.
Overall, I enjoyed my lunch at Source, with dishes that were satisfying without leaving me feeling full to the brim and that provided flavorful surprises that accentuated without overpowering the beauty of the ingredients. If a Mediterranean oasis in Gilbert was Urciuoli's aim, Source delivers.
Details: 3150 E. Ray Road, Gilbert. eatatsource.com.
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This article originally appeared on Arizona Republic: Source restaurant is open in Gilbert. Here's what's on the menu
