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The Ultimate Guide To Buying a Suit
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Picking a suit is not easy. It’s one of many challenges when shopping for the perfect look, if not one of the most difficult. Though some retailers like J.Crew outline the basics of suit shopping, they don’t go into the details that make it easy. What fabrics should you choose, and in what colors and styles? It can all be a bit too much, and often you’re left with more questions.
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Finding the right suit that caters to your body and style can sometimes be the difference between getting the job over the next well-dressed candidate — or even snagging that second date. A nice suit demands respect as soon as it enters the room. There’s a reason the term “power dressing” was developed about suit wearers in the late 70s.
Coming from someone who wears a well-tailored Golden Goose jacket almost religiously, there are many ways to style a single suit to develop a range of looks. If you want to dress down, which is how I style my suit jackets most days, a crisp white Lucky brand crewneck and pair of baggy jeans look polished but relaxed and can easily transition from a day at the office to a night of drinks after work.
The type of wool you choose, the opening of the jacket, and even the color or pattern are all factors to consider when shopping for your perfect suit. If this is your first time buying, or you’re a longtime reader of our recommendations, we’ve digested the key components to make suit shopping feel a little less daunting.
Material: Wool and Weaves
Editor’s Pick: J.Crew Ludlow Slim-fit Suit In Italian Wool
$450
$225
There’s no denying nothing can beat a wool suit. They’re less likely to wrinkle, and it’s easier to tailor them for a sharp look that was meant ideally for you. However, the weight and density of your suit aren’t always determined by material but by the fabric’s weave. Lightweight plain weaves (or a hopsack) have a square structure that provides more breathability and are often blended with other materials to make the suit lighter. These suits are most suitable for warmer climates, though they aren’t as structured and appear more casual than formal. A heavier-weight plain weave (or a twill) is woven diagonally and much more dense, meaning fewer wrinkles and more suitable for colder climates. Then there’s English wool, which often has more texture and is known for its durability, warmth, and resistance to wrinkles vs. Italian wool is known for its softness, drape, and shine. If you’re looking for the most versatility, we recommend the J.Crew Ludlow Slim-fit Suit In Italian Wool ($675). It’s slightly less thick than most wool suits but holds its shape very well.
Material: Linen and Cotton
Editor’s Pick: Alex Mill Mercer Suit in Cotton Linen
$275
$195
During the summer months, when it’s just too unbearable to wear something heavy but you must wear a suit, look at brands with cotton or linen options. It’s a warm-weather wedding favorite because of its lightness when compared to wool, meaning you’ll get some breathability. Suits in this fabric are often made in lighter colors that won’t absorb heat. A word of caution if you don’t like wrinkles. This material doesn’t have the same structured, crisp look as a suit made of wool. If you’re trying to find something that won’t crease, look for suits made of sateen cotton. It’s more densely woven and will help prevent wrinkles throughout the day. We love Alex Mill because of their linen and cotton range for this category. It’s far superior to most, and their low cost won’t empty your pockets. Our editor’s pick is the Mercer Suit in Linen ($470) for its light neutral color that can be worn year after year.
Editor’s tip: If you want a pressed look but need something that won’t leave you melting in the summer sun, take the cotton/linen suit to a dry cleaner and ask if they can pre-treat before dry cleaning. This will help minimize some of the wrinkles, but not all.
Budget: Affordable vs. Expensive
Editor’s Pick: JOE Joseph Abboud Linen Suit
$199.99
$100
Whether you’re shopping on a budget or, you don’t wear a suit often enough to justify buying a pricey one, it is possible to pick up a good suit without breaking the bank. One of the best places to find great suits on a budget is Men’s Warehouse. You’ll find brands like Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Calvin Klein — all for less than big department stores.
On a recent trip out of town, I needed a summery suit in a pinch and stopped into Men’s Warehouse. I grabbed a linen suit much like this JOE Joseph Abboud Slim Fit Linen number — $300 total, right off the rack — and, well, liked the way I looked.
Closure: Single vs. Double
Editor’s Pick: Ralph Lauren Iconic Doeskin Blazer
$1,198
Most suits on the market will consist of a single breast closure, meaning rather than two rows of buttons, you’ll only see one. However, in the last few years, double-breasted jackets have really kicked off, and it’s easy to see why. The double-buttoned closer adds shape to the front of the coat, drawing the eyes in to create a slimmer profile. It’s a popular style you see on many male celebrities recently, most notable being Harry Styles. For this category, we recommend going double-breasted in a Ralph Lauren Iconic Doeskin Blazer ($1,198). Our editors swear by this style, elevating your look with slight shape and dimension — Not to mention the number of compliments you’ll get with every wear.
Color: Bold vs. Subtle
Editor’s Pick: Ted Baker London Jay Slim Fit Windowpane Plaid Stretch Wool Suit
$598.80 $998 40% off
Color is not for the faint of heart or those without the proper basics built into their wardrobe. We suggest sticking to the classics. They’ll last in your closet much longer than anything flashy, so you’ll get more wear out of your purchase going the subtle route. Here, we recommend the Ted Baker London Jay Slim Fit Suit ($598.80). Blue is such a universal color and looks flattering on most skin tones. If you’re headed into an important meeting or need something last minute for an event, a nicely tailored blue suit will go a long way.
Pattern: Bold vs. Subtle
Editor’s Pick: Acne Studio
Black Pinstripes Blazer
$740
$445
If you’re looking for a suit with a pattern, one of two things must be true: 1. You have built up a collection of staples and are now ready to take it up a notch, or 2. You don’t have the staples yet, but you dare to make bold choices. You can’t go wrong with a subtle pinstripe if you find yourself in one of these options. It’s a sophisticated choice that tells the world you understand how to have fun but still have taste. Here, we recommend the Acne Studio Black Pinstripes Suit from Ssense ($1,185). It’s a relatively low cost for its quality, but the boxy silhouette sold us.
Pride yourself on shopping only the best selections when it comes to fashion? Us too. We are tastemakers dedicated to bringing you the finest in clothing, shoes, and accessories. Shop like a Rolling Stone editor and check out more of our stylish recommendations.
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