Want to responsibly explore 'Killers of the Flower Moon' history? Here's where to go
In the 1920s, an oil boom brought a rush of newcomers to Osage County, many of them shady characters with wicked intentions.
Now that cinema icon Martin Scorsese has released a star-studded $200 million movie about the dark deeds that many committed during that boom 100 years ago, many Oklahomans are hoping the visitors who arrive in the wake of "Killers of the Flower Moon" prove much less destructive and indifferent.
“Since the release of the bestselling book 'Killers of the Flower Moon,' the historical account of the Osage Nation in Oklahoma has garnered national attention and increased visitation to the area steadily each year,” said Shelley Zumwalt, executive director of the Oklahoma Tourism and Recreation Department, in a statement.
“As we welcome visitors to Osage County to learn more about this history, it’s important to remind everyone of how they can be respectful to the land, the people and the historic sites.”
'Killers of the Flower Moon' has already boosted tourism, with a greater increase expected
Adapted from David Grann's nonfiction bestseller “Killers of the Flower Moon: The Osage Murders and the Birth of the FBI," Scorsese's fact-based epic chronicles the serial murders of Osage Nation citizens in 1920s Oklahoma, after an oil boom made them the wealthiest people in the world per capita. The killings became known as the "Reign of Terror" and led to an investigation by the then-fledgling FBI.
Since the publication of Grann's book in 2017, direct visitor spending in Osage County jumped from $88.6 million to $161.3 million in 2021, according to the state Tourism Department.
Starring Oscar winners Leonardo DiCaprio and Robert De Niro and acclaimed Native American actress Lily Gladstone, who is NiMíiPuu, or Nez Perce, and Siksikaitsitapi, or Blackfeet, "Killers of the Flower Moon" debuted in theaters worldwide Oct. 20, garnering $44 million globally its opening weekend.
"Killers of the Flower Moon" also has earned rave reviews from critics and an “A-” CinemaScore from audiences, leading to expectations of an even bigger tourism boost for Osage County.
Osage Nation tourists encouraged to be courteous and responsible
Scorsese filmed "Killers of the Flower Moon" over 99 days in 2021 in many of the actual communities throughout the Osage Nation where the movie's historic incidents occurred, including Pawhuska, Bartlesville, Fairfax and Tulsa.
But tourists shouldn't expect to have the same access as the filmmakers. The state tourism department and Osage Nation are encouraging visitors to be courteous and responsible by following these tips:
Respect private property: Do not trespass. Respect any restrictions or guidelines posted or provided.
Research your destination: Before visiting, take the time to research and understand the Osage Nation’s history and values.
Support local businesses: When possible, choose local accommodations, restaurants and tour operators. Intentional spending can positively affect the local economy and community.
Honor the victims: Visitors are asked to not visit the cemetery where the victims of the Reign of Terror are buried.
"We've had terrible vandalism there before, people cracking out those old dome pictures ... and shooting out those old 1920s pictures. It's just been terrible. There's a lot of racism still today," said Osage Nation citizen Danette Daniels, who lives in Fairfax, which is near the tribal settlement of Gray Horse.
"The Osage community, tribal citizens, we don't want tourists going out there. So, we're just trying to create spaces for them to come, to get information, to ask questions, that are appropriate places."
During the COVID-19 pandemic, Daniels purchased the former First State Bank building, 301 N Main in downtown Fairfax, and she spent 14 months renovating it into the Fairfax Osage Reservation Museum. Built in 1905 and listed on the National Register of Historic places, it was used as a filming location for "Killers of the Flower Moon."
She also moved her popular Water Bird Gallery, which she opened in 2015 in downtown Pawhuska, into her hometown historic building.
Through the nearby Tall Chief Theater, visitors can register for small-group, in-person tours around the town of Fairfax. The hourlong tours provide insider information on locations mentioned in the book. Tours are $25 per person. For more information or to book a tour, go to https://www.tallchieftheater.com/take-action.
Where can Osage Nation visitors go to respectfully learn about 'Killers of the Flower Moon' history?
Visitors to the Osage Nation who want to respectfully learn about the history covered in 'Killers of the Flower Moon' can check out these places:
Fairfax Osage Reservation Museum and Water Bird Gallery, Fairfax
The museum includes Osage material culture items, while the Osage-owned gift shop gallery carries Native-made goods and art, jewelry, new and vintage clothing and more. Hours are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Information: https://www.facebook.com/TheWaterBirdGallery
Osage Nation Museum, Pawhuska
Located in the heart of the Osage Nation since 1938, it is believed to be the oldest tribally governed museum in the United States. It is a gathering place as well as a repository for the art, artifacts and material culture related to the history of the Osage people. Parking and admission are free. Hours are 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays. Information: https://www.osageculture.com/culture/museum.
Osage Nation Visitors Center, Pawhuska
The center's mission is to promote Osage culture, Osage Nation services and Osage-owned artists and businesses. It provides an accurate history of the Osage tribe from an Osage perspective. Hours are 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays and 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Saturdays. Information: https://www.osageculture.com/visitors/visitors-center.
Joseph H. Williams Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, Pawhuska
This preserve is the largest protected piece of tallgrass prairie left on Earth. Spanning 14 states, the site offers visitors numerous opportunities to watch diverse wildlife, including a vast herd of American bison, while viewing breathtaking scenery.
It's open seven days a week during daylight hours. Information: https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/tallgrass-prairie-preserve.
John Joseph Mathews Historic Cabin, Pawhuska
Situated in the Joseph H. Williams Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, the restored cabin was home to renowned Osage scientist, naturalist, hunter, veteran, author and historian John Joseph Mathews (1894-1979). The historic stone cabin, known as The Blackjacks, now stands as a monument to Osage and literary history.
Tours are offered on the fourth Saturday of the month from May to October. For information or to register, go to https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/events/ok-historic-cabin-tour.
Tall Chief Theater, Fairfax
This historic theater was originally built in 1928 by Alex Tall Chief, the father of iconic ballerinas Maria and Marjorie Tallchief. The theater is mentioned in Grann's book, and the "Killers of the Flower Moon Memorial Exhibit" inside honors the victims of the Reign of Terror. Efforts are underway to preserve, restore and renovate the theater as a performing arts center. Information: https://www.tallchieftheater.com.
Osage Hills State Park, Pawhuska
Boasting lush forests, rocky bluffs and serene waters, the park features 1,100 acres of incredible scenery. It is particularly stunning in the fall, as the foliage turns from deep green to vivid shades of yellow, orange and red. Information: https://www.travelok.com/state-parks/osage-hills-state-park.
Big Rain Gallery, Pawhuska
This Osage- and woman-owned art gallery features a wide array of art, jewelry, silverwork, accessories and clothing made by Native artists. Hours are 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays-Saturdays or by appointment. Information: https://bigraingallery.com.
White Hair Memorial and Osage Learning Resource Center, Ralston
Located less than a mile from State Highway 20 between Hominy and Fairfax, this Oklahoma Historical Society site houses numerous Osage artifacts, documents, maps, annuity rolls, oral histories and photographs.
It is the former home of Osage trailblazer Lillie Morrell Burkhart (1907–1967), who married Reign of Terror co-conspirator Byron Burkhurt, brother of convicted murderer Ernest Burkhart, in 1936. She divorced him in 1961.
The White Hair Memorial, which honors Lillie's ancestor Chief Pawhuska, or White Hair, is open 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Mondays-Fridays. Admission is free. Information: https://www.okhistory.org/sites/whitehair.
This article originally appeared on Oklahoman: 9 Oklahoma places to visit to find 'Killers of the Flower Moon' history