Where to eat in Milwaukee's Third Ward for everything from brunch to date night

Milwaukee is a city of neighborhoods, and dining critic Rachel Bernhard intends on exploring them the best way she knows how: through food. In her series Movable Feasts, she sets out to craft the ultimate meal by visiting multiple dining destinations — plus popular stops along the way — to get a better taste of what each of the city's distinct neighborhoods has to offer. Which neighborhood should she visit next? Let her know at [email protected].   

Bordered by Lake Michigan at the east, the Milwaukee River to the west and south, and East Clybourn Street to the north, this densely packed neighborhood is home to 10 square blocks filled with hundreds of businesses, including restaurants, art galleries, clothing boutiques, salons and performing arts spaces.

The Third Ward is known as one of the tonier neighborhoods in the city, one that draws fashion-minded locals and out-of-town visitors to the upscale shops and higher-end restaurants that flourish in this ever-vibrant Milwaukee enclave.

But even with its posh reputation, when it comes to dining, there’s something for everyone in the Third Ward, from dynamite burgers to grab-and-go sandwiches to fancy-night-out eateries.

Though you’ll find dozens of fab food and drink options all over the Third Ward, here are a few to start with.

For brunch: Sweet Diner

239 E. Chicago St., sweetdiner.com

Despite the name, don’t expect a greasy-spoon spot when you step into this buzzy breakfast joint. Its high ceilings, crisp white walls with glimmering, gold-spiked chandeliers and bright and bubbly vibe are all Third Ward glam mixed with a touch of industrial grit — the sort of place you bring out-of-town friends to prove Milwaukee can be chic ... even in the morning haze.

But the food is still the cozy brunch fare you crave after a big night out. Stacks of fluffy pancakes are topped with berries, chocolate chips or — if you’re feeling super sweet — cream cheese frosting and cinnamon streusel. Sweet-and-savory lovers should try the restaurant's ultra-Southern take on classic chicken and waffles — made with a cornbread waffle and topped with crispy Memphis-style chicken tenders with sides of hot sauce and maple syrup. Benedicts, hearty skillet bowls with eggs and crispy breakfast potatoes, and steak-and-eggs recall classic diner fare with a more fashionable presentation.

The dining room is plenty big for a morning meetup of friends or family, with seats for about 200, but be warned: Sweet Diner can be busy on weekends and doesn’t accept reservations, so plan accordingly and grab a brunch cocktail or coffee at the restaurant’s bar if you have to wait.

For something quick: Riley’s Sandwich Co.

148 N. Milwaukee St., rileysandwich.com

Order from the kiosk at this cute carryout space and take your sandwich to go. Eat it outside on the adjoining parklet or take it to the dog-friendly tavern next door, Riley’s Social House, where you might see as many pups as patrons inside.

While I’d argue the main appeal of Riley’s is the parade of adorable dogs you’ll likely see, the next best thing are the excellent sandwiches, so big they're difficult to polish off in one sitting.

More than 20 sandwiches are on the menu, mostly split into steak and chicken varieties. They're all prepared using the sous vide method, yielding perfectly cooked, consistent meat that goes way beyond a standard sub shop.

The Steak Kensington is remarkable, swiped with a house-made horseradish spread and topped with melty mozzarella, roasted onions and mushrooms, and Parmesan. I also liked the Nashville Hot Chicken with house-made dill pickles and the CBR — that's chicken, bacon and house-made ranch — with creamy avocado and super fresh lettuce and tomato.

Even though the sous vide meats are the draw, a few of the sandwiches are made with vegetarian substitutions, like the Nashville Hot and Buffalo sandwiches made with cauliflower or Oakland-Style Kensington made with portabella mushroom.

And should Fido be in tow, he won’t go hungry. Order the Riley’s Fave, a mix of cooked organic chicken breast, carrots and broccoli, and he can lunch right alongside you.

For a power lunch: Bavette La Boucherie

217 N. Broadway, bavettelaboucherie.com

Let’s be clear: You should absolutely find a night to do dinner at Bavette, where James Beard-nominated chef Karen Bell’s elegant dishes are prepped in a skillful kitchen that shares space with an in-house butchery. But it’s the restaurant’s bevy of stellar sandwiches that makes it the best spot in the neighborhood for a long, luxurious lunch.

I’m smitten with the Korean steak sandwich, loaded with juicy steak, a punchy kimchi aioli and fresh cabbage slaw laced with chopped, roasty peanuts. It’s served with a bowl of hot pot au jus for dipping, like a Korean-style French dip sandwich loaded with aromatics. The pork belly banh mi is another favorite; the house-pickled veggies are so snappy they cut right through the rich, melty pork. And where else can you find a Reuben made with beef tongue? When the restaurant doubles as a butcher shop, it’s these use-it-all touches that make their sandwiches stand out.

And for a butcher shop spot, the salads sing, too, like the pretty roasted carrot salad with baba ghanoush and a sprinkle of pistachio dukkah (an Egyptian spice blend) or the roasted beet salad that gets a citrusy kick from citrus, pomegranate and an ‘nduja vinaigrette.

The space is open and airy, with loads of action happening behind the long bar, where diners can watch the choreography of each dish coming together in the open kitchen.

It’s a cozy, chic spot to stop in for a break during a long day of shopping or a high-style midday getaway with co-workers.

For a celebration: Tre Rivali

200 N. Broadway; trerivalirestaurant.com

Located on the ground floor of the Kimpton Journeyman Hotel, this modern Mediterranean restaurant is a smart spot to gather a group. The dining room is spacious yet cozy, with large tables that don't feel crowded as your food arrives and comfy padded seats that invite you to linger over a bottle of wine, big bowl of pasta or shareable small plates you’ll keep adding to your order (like the whipped ricotta—trust me, order two, lest you want to fight for the final swipe with your tablemates).

When dining with a group, the trouble lies with finding a menu that can please everyone. That’s not an issue at Tre Rivali. For everyone who goes for the osso buco with creamy polenta or bone-in black bass brightened with grilled lemon there’s something for the more casual diner, like the wood-fired pizzas with puffy, blistered crust and light and lovely San Marzano sauce. Pasta lovers will swoon over the handmade noodles such as campanelle dressed in a light cream sauce with earthy wild mushrooms or tender dumplings stuffed with lemony ricotta and dressed with fresh basil and Parmesan.

At a time when dining rooms are trending loud and overcrowded, I’m so thankful for the open space and low decibel level at Tre Rivali — you won’t find yourself shouting to your dining companions, but there's plenty of buzz that makes the space feel lively. Yes, it’s a good place to go with a group, but it ticks all the boxes for an intimate dinner, too.

And if your get-together is more geared toward daytime, this is still a great place to go. Tre Rivali is open for lunch from Tuesday to Friday and weekend brunch.

For outdoor dining: Cafe Benelux

346 N. Broadway; cafebenelux.com

The intersection of Broadway and St Paul Avenue is one of the most bustling corners of the city, from the morning rush for coffee at Colectivo to droves of folks filing into the Public Market at all hours. And from the perch of the roof at Cafe Benelux, diners have an overhead view of all the hullabaloo below.

Snag a seat at one of the expansive rooftop’s umbrella-topped tables and you have one of the most sought-after spots in the city come patio season. That’s where you can swig one of the Lowland Brewing Collaborative’s world-exclusive beers, around a dozen Wisconsin-exclusive beers and loads more Belgian-inspired brews from across the globe.

All food tastes better on a rooftop, right? And the food here can satisfy pretty much anyone. The menu is vast and varied, with everything from big burgers to fresh salads to bacon-wrapped meatloaf to creamy mac and cheese to light snacks made for sharing. There are even special menus for kids and gluten-free diners. And brunch is served daily.

Summer isn’t the only time to enjoy that rooftop dining experience. In winter, diners yearning for some semi-outdoor noshing can reserve heated domes that pop up on the upper deck.

And while the rooftop is the place to be at Cafe Benelux, there’s plenty of people watching to be had from the restaurant’s sidewalk patio, too.

For date night: Saffron

233 N. Water St., saffronmke.com

The ideal date night varies for everyone; some prefer fancy and intimate, some like things more cozy and casual. Me? I’m all about fun. And dining at this modern Indian restaurant is just that.

I love the boppy Punjabi tunes that sprinkle the dining room with life, the plush turquoise velvet bar stools and chairs that line the long, skinny dining room, and the stunning presentation of the food that made a handful of my Instagram stories before I even started my job as dining critic.

This is a restaurant where details matter. A special bowl, platter, steamer basket or plate is intentionally paired with each dish — like the pillowy, perfectly charred naan delivered in its own branded wooden box. Everything from small plates to desserts come to the table artfully garnished with edible flowers, swirls of vibrant sauces or dustings of warm Indian spices. Audible “wows” across the dining room are frequent when dishes are brought to tables.

But it’s not just for show. The food is as fun to eat as it is to look at. Classic butter chicken is rich and deep, with plenty of sauce left to sop up with naan. Tandoori smoked lamb chops are tender and smoky with a crispy char. The crispy cauliflower starter’s flavor is layered and gotta-have-another-piece good.

If an intimate night out is more your style, you may find Saffron more boisterous than you’d prefer. But if you’re looking for fun and flourish in every dish, Saffron is your spot.

For a friend meetup: DanDan

360 E. Erie St., dandanmke.com

The vibe is always right at modern American-Chinese restaurant DanDan: buoyant and cool, with moody lighting and head-bobby jams tinkling through the speakers. Folks reach across tables to snag a bite of their dining companions’ dishes, servers are attentive but casual, and it always seems like someone is celebrating something.

The always-effervescent atmosphere makes it a good spot for a catch-up with your crew, whether it’s out-of-town guests or your best buds whose schedules haven’t synched up in a bit. It’s a little more upscale than getting together for pub fare, but not nearly stuffy enough that you can’t show up in a sweatshirt. And no one’s going to turn their heads if a laughing fit breaks out at your table.

The menu is tailored for any kind of friend, too. The unapologetically nontraditional American-Chinese fare should be recognizable to anyone who’s ordered Chinese takeout: kung pao chicken, egg rolls, beef chow fun, crab rangoon and Mongolian beef are all there, but they’re amped up with flavor and flair from James Beard-nominated chef-owners Dan Jacobs and Dan Van Rite. Case in point: Sure, you’ll see pork dumplings on the menu, but you’ll also find potstickers filled with short ribs and foie gras. This is Asian-fusion food with style.

For takeout: Brute Pizza

316 N. Milwaukee St., brutemke.com

A relative newcomer to Milwaukee’s pizza scene, this counter-service spot opened in 2022 and has quickly made a name for itself with its Neapolitan-style pie highlighted by a stellar three-day fermented sourdough crust that’s a little crisp, a little chewy and beautifully charred from a quick bake in an 850°F oven.

The offerings are few at Brute, with just four permanent specialty pizzas on the menu, plus a rotating monthly special. But everything here is executed fantastically, with high-quality ingredients like Wisconsin-made Meadowlark Organics flour, Wisconsin mozzarella and a wildly fresh sauce made with strained San Marzano tomatoes.

Brute’s take on the classic Milwaukee SMO is the 414 Pizza, topped with fennel sausage, roasted cremini mushrooms and yellow onions. The four P’s in the P.P.P.P. Pizza stand for pepperoni, peppers (bell), peppadew and Parmesan-Reggiano cheese. I often judge a pizza place by how well they can pull off a Margherita style, and Brute’s is exceptional with garlic-marinated grape tomatoes, fresh blobs of mozzarella and basil leaves. Even the cheese pizza stands out, using four types of cheese including fresh mozzarella, shredded mozzarella, Pecorino Romano and Parmesan-Reggiano. Mmm ... there’s no such thing as too much cheese.

Each pie is about 12 inches. You can order ahead online or in person at the shop, where you’ll have a short wait since the hand-shaped pizzas bake for about five to seven minutes.

For a cozy dinner: Onesto

221 N. Broadway; onestomke.com

If there’s one eatery that embodies the spirit of the Third Ward, it’s Onesto. Cream City brick walls? Check. Deep-stained wooden tables? Check. Industrial-chic exposed beams and metal ductwork? Check and check. It also welcomes all kinds of clientele, from couples on anniversary dates to business diners to families stopping in after a long day of shopping.

It shines on dark nights, when the flickering tealights atop each table add a romantic glow to the dim dining room and the view of the twinkling lights outside on Broadway bring a festive feel long after the holidays have gone.

There's warmth inside the dining room of this modern Italian restaurant, with friendly service that makes it easy to feel comfortable settling into a big bowl of handmade pasta, splitting a meat and cheese board or calamari appetizer, or parking it at the bar for a darn good negroni.

It's lovely in warmer months, too, but there’s something about ducking into Onesto on a dark evening that feels like a warm hug on a cold winter night.

For a little bit of everything: Milwaukee Public Market

400 N. Water St.; milwaukeepublicmarket.org

For the habitually indecisive, Milwaukee Public Market is a haven. You can grab a bite, pick up some specialty grocery items and shop for gifts from nearly 20 vendors under one roof.

It’s a hotspot for the lunch crowd for good reason — there’s a flavor for everyone, and anything you order from any vendor can be enjoyed in the upper dining area or is easy to carry out.

My first recommendation will always be the Maine lobster roll at St. Paul Fish Company. It’s one of my favorite sandwiches in the city, so fresh, loaded with lobster and not too heavily dressed. But you can’t go wrong with their fish fry, New England clam chowder or crab cakes, either.

Best Bites: Maine lobster roll, pud kee mow and more of the best things our critic ate last month

Of course the West Allis Cheese & Sausage Shoppe makes a mean grilled cheese, but their other sandwiches stack up, too (check for their sandwich of the week special). Wash it down with their loaded Bloody Mary, which is practically a meal in itself, and you’ve ticked off two Wisconsin essentials in one sitting.

For something a little more fresh, I like the falafel bowl at Aladdin, and I always walk away with a to-go order of their hummus and pita and a couple dolma on the side. Add a fresh juice from The Green Kitchen (their Carrot Cake juice tastes like a treat) and you’re good to go.

The Foltz Family Market’s panini are impressive ... and impressively big — a half order is plenty for one. My faves are the Cuban, the Santa Fe chicken and the steak tenderloin with blue cheese, fried onions and horseradish sauce. Don’t sleep on their tasty wood-fired pizzas, either.

Pat’s Rib Place is a great quick barbecue option, with meats smoked daily. But if you don’t eat meat, steer yourself over to On the Bus, the all-vegan eatery that serves plant-based sandwiches, smoothies and acai bowls out of a vintage Volkswagen bus inside the market.

And don’t leave without picking up something sweet for yourself. If I ever walk by the C. Adams Bakery booth without picking up at least one chocolate chunk “Big Cookie,” you know I'm having an off day. Their fudge brownies, delicate macarons and pretty-as-can-be cupcakes are always tempting, too.

Rachel Bernhard joined the Journal Sentinel as dining critic in June 2023. She’s been busy exploring the Milwaukee area food scene to share her favorite finds with readers along the way. Like all Journal Sentinel reporters, she buys all meals, accepts no gifts and is independent of all establishments she covers.

What should she cover next? Contact her at [email protected]. Follow her on Twitter at @rachelbernhard or on Instagram at @rach.eats.mke.

This article originally appeared on Milwaukee Journal Sentinel: Your guide to restaurants in Milwaukee's Third Ward