Chanel takes a dip: Viard's spring show brings Paris stalwart down to earth

THOMAS ADAMSON
Updated 7 min read

PARIS (AP) ā€” As Chanel's models took their sashay down the Paris runway, guests could practically hear the faint splashes from the pools of the villa Noailles. This historic cubist space in the south of France, once graced by luminaries like Luis Bu?uel, Man Ray, DalĆ­ ā€” and also Karl Lagerfeld ā€” has for almost a century been a beacon for art.

Virginie Viardā€™s spring collection emerged as a sun-drenched ode to the villaā€™s gardens. With Gigi Hadid leading the pack in flip-flops, the stalwart was stripped of its typical high-brow allure, grounding Chanel styles in an earthy, relaxed summer vibe.

Here are some highlights ā€” including an interview with Paris Hilton, and when PenĆ©lope Cruz told The Associated Press why the memory of her grandmother drew her to fashion.

VIARD MAKES CHANEL RELATABLE

ā€œSophistication juxtaposed with informality, the ever-present tweed, sporty touches, and delicate lace: I aimed for a harmonious blend of contrasts,ā€ Viard said. Using the sunlit flora and tranquil pool of the villa as a muse, her collection leaned away from Lagerfeldā€™s signature high-glam aesthetic, presenting a panorama of comfort, chicness ā€” and, gasp, relatability.

The parade began with multicolored tweed dressing gowns, their luxurious threads catching the light as models moved. Easygoing, low-slung outfits that evoked an air of carefree leisure faintly contrasted with detailed geometric designs gracing several pieces. Lace trimmings whispered of femininity and delicate craftsmanship, while sporty accents gave the ensembles a touch of the everyday.

This was a confident Viard, four years since taking the creative helm of the storied maison, making low key designs that seemed as if they had nothing to prove.

There were moments when the display would have benefitted from a touch more innovation, perhaps a fresh design twist that could have set the collection apart, especially when keeping Lagerfeldā€™s innovative legacy in mind. Some ensembles, though impeccably tailored, played it too safe.

Yet, the point of this collection lay not in dramatic novelty but in its accessibility. The use of mid-size models, for instance, was a relatable gesture that speaks volumes of Viardā€™s intent to make Chanel resonate with a broader audience.

In making Chanel relatable, sheā€™s not only navigating but is redefining her space.

CRUZ RECALLS EMBROIDERED SHAWL: A LIFETIME OF FASHION

In an interviewe with the AP, Cruzā€™s love for fashion was poignantly traced back to a handcrafted family symbol: the Manton di Manila.

ā€œMy grandmother made by hand a Manton di Manila,ā€ Cruz shared at Chanelā€™s spring collection, her eyes alight with emotion. ā€œIf I had to keep only one thing from the objects that I have and materials, it would be that one because she spent 40 hours, or maybe even more, sewing by hand.ā€ This Manila shawl, an embroidered silk shawl derived from the Filipino pa?uelo, not only stands as a testament to her grandmotherā€™s craftsmanship but has also profoundly influenced Cruzā€™s appreciation for artisanal fashion.

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