Food Fight: Duke’s Mayo vs. Hellmann’s

Photo credit: Duke's, Hellmann's. Graphic credit: Jared Harrell

It’s easy to understand why people are passionate about certain foods. A cheddary mac and cheese, a beautiful steak, a crisp rosé on a summer day, a perfectly ripe peach. But mayonnaise?

Chances are, if you consume mayonnaise, you have an opinion about it. After all, it’s America’s most popular condiment, easily edging out ketchup, mustard, soy sauce, and hot sauce. According to the Euromonitor market research firm, Americans bought roughly $2 billion worth of mayo in 2013.

There are two brands in particular that inspire a great deal of passion: We’re talking about Hellmann’s Real Mayonnaise and Duke’s Real Mayonnaise. One born in New York City, one born in Greenville, South Carolina, each originating with a woman’s homemade batch of the stuff.

In 1905, German immigrant Richard Hellmann opened a delicatessen in New York City and featured his wife’s mayo in and on a range of products. It eventually became so popular, he started selling it separately. A dozen years later, another scrappy entrepreneur, Eugenia Duke, used her mayo on sandwiches that she sold to soldiers stationed near her home. She later sold some bottled mayo to a grocer on consignment and Duke’s Mayonnaise became a business.

If sales and social media were a factor, this wouldn’t be a fair fight. Hellmann’s, with more than 1 million Facebook fans and way more supermarket shelf space, is by far the market leader, while Duke’s, with 32,000 Facebook followers, is more of a regional specialty. But broken down by region, the rules change: Southern chefs, in particular, are quick to pledge allegiance to Duke’s. Up North, if a chef doesn’t make his or her mayo from scratch, you’re more likely to find Hellmann’s in the walk-in.

You might be saying, “Why all the fuss over bland old mayonnaise?” But mayo is one of those workhorse products that’s easy to take for granted. It’s never the star of a dish, but rather the element that brings everything together harmoniously. It’s like the bassist in your favorite band. The lead singer gets all the attention, but someone has to keep the rhythm steady.

Think of all the dishes in which mayo is a central, essential component: potato salad, pimento cheese, coleslaw, tuna salad, deviled eggs, lobster rolls (at least some versions), and on and on. You’d miss mayo if it weren’t around.

Need more mayo in your life? We’ve got you covered:
5 Brilliant Ways To Use Mayonnaise
How To Make Homemade Mayonnaise
Mayonnaise: The Key to Better Grilled Cheese

Duke’s? Hellmann’s? Another brand? Tell us what’s in your fridge.