How to Build the Perfect Cheeseburger
By Ashley Rodriguez
You know you love your great aunt’s banana bread, but you probably don’t know why you do. In Modern Comfort, Ashley Rodriguez from Not Without Salt figures out what makes our favorite classics work, and then makes them even better.
Today: How to make the perfect cheeseburger, from bun to beef and everything in between.
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One of the most common questions asked to those of us who love food is, “What would you choose for your last meal?” My answer is always the same: a classic cheeseburger, crisp fries, and a bittersweet chocolate shake.
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So you can imagine that when it comes to a classic cheeseburger, I have opinions—strong ones, in fact.
First, the bun. It should be soft, and sesame seeds are okay but not necessary. What I don’t want is to have a battle with my bread. This usually means there is butter and egg involved in the dough to make it tender. At the store I look for a potato or brioche bun. (Of course I’m never opposed to a homemade bun either.)
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The patty itself is important, very much so, but I don’t put as much emphasis on the meat as others may. My perfect burger is just as much about the fixings as the meat, so I’m not concerned with grinding my own. I do seek out meat with a good bit of fat (15 to 20%). I season it simply with salt and pepper and then I add even more fat and flavor by grating in cold butter. The garlic, onion, and spices often found in burger recipes tend to take away from the natural flavor of the beef, but the addition of butter is really key. When the cold, thinly grated butter hits a screaming hot griddle, its steam creates pockets that tenderize and season the beef in a way that you’ll really appreciate when you bite in.
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A grill is the classic way to cook a burger, of course, but I find that my cast-iron pan creates a thick, deeply caramelized crust on the meat while the interior stays juicy and pink. Bacon is highly encouraged but not necessary. If it does make it onto your burger, just be sure it’s very crisp.
My cheese of choice has always been a bit controversial. You see, I’m a fan of American cheese on a classic burger. I love how easily it melts both onto and into the burger, adding a soft creaminess without stealing the show.
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I’ve now found my own combination for the perfect creamy, easy melting burger cheese. I blend sharp cheddar and Fontina with a bit of mayonnaise to create a rich, tangy sauce that melts and softens the moment it hits the hot patty. You can use whichever cheese you prefer, but I find that this mixture adds the right amount of sharpness without being overpowering.
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A few more things to note about my burger: Special sauce belongs on both sides of the bun; the lettuce is iceberg and must be cold and crisp; dill pickles and thinly sliced yellow onion add a biting, raw heat; and when the season is right, I slap on a thick slice of tomato. When tomatoes are not at their peak, I roast thick slices in a 400° F oven for 30 minutes (flipping halfway through roasting), until they are sweet, caramelized, and reminiscent of a fine ketchup.
If you have similarly strong opinions on the subject of a classic cheeseburger, I suggest you start preheating your cast-iron now—you are going to love this rendition.
My Classic Burger with Special Sauce
Serves 4
For the beef patties:
8 tablespoons (1 stick) cold unsalted butter, divided
1 pound 12 ounces ground beef (15 to 20% fat)
2 ½ teaspoons kosher salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 soft burger buns
4 small, inner iceberg lettuce leaves
4 tomato slices (fresh or roasted)
Crisp bacon slices, for topping
4 yellow onion slices
Thinly sliced dill pickles, for topping
Start by making the cheese mixture (see below for instructions).
Grate 4 tablespoons of the cold butter and, in a large bowl, gently combine it with the beef, salt, and pepper. Refrigerate for at least one hour or overnight.
When you are ready to cook your burgers, form the patties by gently gathering 4 ounces of beef into a ball and pressing it to create a patty. Sear the patties in a screaming hot cast-iron skillet for 3 minutes on one side. Flip, then continue to cook for 1 minute more before spooning a bit of the cheese mixture (see below for instructions) on top of the patty (or laying a slice of cheese if that is what you are using). Continue to cook for 1 to 2 minutes more, until the cheese is soft and the patty is cooked through. Set the patties aside to rest for a few minutes before building your burger.
Note: For medium-rare, cook the burger to 130° F to 135° F; medium 140° F to 145° F; medium-well 150° F to 155° F; and well-done 160° F or higher.
While the pan that you just cooked your burger in is still hot, add the rest of the butter and let it melt. Place four of the bun halves in the pan and toast until golden and crisp. Repeat until all the buns are toasted.
Build your burger by slathering special sauce on BOTH sides of the bun. Add the patty and lettuce, tomatoes, bacon, onion, and LOTS of pickles. Top with the other crisped and sauce-smeared bun.
For the cheese sauce:
8 ounces cheese (I use a mix of Beecher’s Sharp Cheddar and Fontina), cut into 1-inch chunks
¼ cup (60 grams) mayonnaise
For the special sauce:
2 tablespoons dill relish
2 teaspoons yellow mustard
1?3 cup (80 grams) mayonnaise
1 garlic clove, minced
2 tablespoons ketchup
1?2 teaspoon soy sauce
1?2 teaspoon honey
Combine the cheese and ¼ cup mayonnaise in the bowl of a food processor and process until the cheese is cut up into tiny bits and the mixture is quite creamy. Refrigerate until ready to use. This mixture will keep for up to 2 weeks stored in an airtight container and refrigerated.
Whisk the remaining 1/3 cup mayonnaise with the remaining ingredients (dill relish through honey). The burger sauce can be made up to 1 week in advance and stored, covered, in the refrigerator.
All photos by Ashley Rodriguez