The Best Restaurant Jobs You Didn’t Know Existed
Yahoo Food is proud to present a new weeklong series called “Master Class.” Throughout the year, we’ll visit with some of America’s top culinary talents and share a behind-the-scenes look at the worlds they’ve created. First up, the country’s most revered chef, Thomas Keller. Here, we break down some of the more unique jobs in his restaurants.
The French Laundry team poses in the restaurant’s culinary garden. All photos courtesy of the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group.
Ever hear of a culinary liaison? What about a restaurant concierge, or a cigar-melier? These are actual jobs at Thomas Keller’s fine dining restaurants, The French Laundry in Yountville, Calif., and Per Se in New York City, though their job descriptions can be difficult to grasp.
That’s because these people aren’t responsible for just one thing. But everything they do — from logistical support to planning menus to keeping vendors happy — ensures that the chefs’ food shines its brightest and guests stay happy.
“We are fortunate to attract individuals with backgrounds that have exposed them to many other areas: art, music, philosophy, business, etc.,” explained Julie Secviar, the director of Human Resources for the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group. These far-ranging expertise might come in handy when explaining to a guest how a certain heirloom carrot is grown, or the current availability of Cuban cigars in America.
Finding the right person for these positions can be a tall order, Secviar said. “Talent alone in our organization is not enough, it must be talent manifested in the right behaviors,” she explained. Essential to every employee? “Passion for being a part of something exceptional [and a] genuine desire to learn and grow and a natural curiosity and pursuit for excellence.”
Below, learn more about Thomas Keller’s less conventional employees (and why they’re so essential).
Patrick Hagerman, Culinary Liaison at The French Laundry
The culinary liaison position is a lot like juggling, by our estimation. "At the core of it, I am the arm of the kitchen and a right hand man to our chef, David Breeden,” Hagerman explained. "I can serve as a bridge from The French Laundry kitchen to the dining room, to other properties, to our purveyors, to new and prospective hires and, at times, our guests.”
Hagerman’s daily duties are dizzying. They include writing the menu with Chef Breeden; fielding emails, calls, and in-person meetings with purveyors and restaurant guests; scheduling; accounting; recipe writing; and even assisting in photo and video shoots. It’s a lot to take on.
“In a restaurant such as The French Laundry, so much hard work and finesse goes into the cuisine, [so] the goal of the culinary liaison is to take on as much as you can to help,” Hagerman said. “[This helps] the chef stay focused on executing the cuisine and leading the brigade.”
Kim Suzuka, Culinary Liaison at Per Se
Suzuka had no idea what a “culinary liaison” was prior to starting work with the Thomas Keller Restaurant Group as a lead host in 2012. She snagged her current position last December.
"Since this position is so unique, it takes someone with several different skill sets to succeed,” she explained. "It is very important to develop relationships with everyone in the restaurant in order to be looked upon as a trustworthy manager who can take on this role.” Strong interpersonal skills are a must, plus a finely tuned sense of organization.
The best part of Suzuka’s job? "Our kitchen runs like a machine, and to be even a small part of that is very rewarding,” she said. “Sometimes, those in administrative roles are not afforded the opportunity to work so closely with the kitchen, and I am very lucky that I can learn so much from both teams.”
Jenna Miller, Concierge at Per Se
Concierges aren’t just for hotels anymore. “I never thought of the position in a restaurant setting, which makes my role so unique,” Miller told us. "I help facilitate reservations and special guest requests; maintain relationships with our colleagues in the industry and those close to the restaurant; keep an open communication with the chef about reservations; work with the service team on that day’s service; and welcome guests into the restaurant.”
Needless to say, there are a lot of moving parts to Miller’s job. "Things are constantly happening at the restaurant so multitasking is also key!” she said. "Asking questions, friendliness, and hard work go a long way.”
Lauren Van Ness, Concierge at The French Laundry
For Van Ness, one of the best parts of being a concierge is handling The French Laundry’s most high-profile guests, including some of Chef Keller’s closest colleagues.
"There is something so exciting about opening bottle of Champagne and pouring it for the guests who I’ve been corresponding with for weeks or months prior to their dining experience,” she said.
Although she’s not serving salmon tartare cornets anymore, many of the Van Ness’s concierge skills were actually learned in the dining room. "I started as a food runner to learn the restaurant’s culture, history, menu style, food purveyors, and the wines we are fortunate to have,” she explained.
Nicholas Keegan, Cigar Curator at The French Laundry
Yes, there really is such a thing as a “cigar-melier.” Keegan’s job is to find perfect three-way pairings — of cuisine, spirits, and cigars — though his role goes far beyond that.
"There has to be a level of service and hospitality mixed in with knowledge of Cuban and American politics,” he explained. He knows all about the Connecticut farm where cigar wrappers for Drew Estate Cigars are grown; how tequila differs from mezcal; and the distinction between a second-growth Bordeaux and fifth-growth Bordeaux. Keegan can even expound on the relationship between John F. Kennedy and Fidel Castro during the 1960s, and the current state of affairs between the U.S. and Cuba.
For Keegan, it’s a dream job. “It’s always interesting to sit down with guests at The French Laundry and light up a cigar,” he said. "Everyone has a story to tell which is always interesting and different.”
More stories from the Keller universe:
Thomas Keller’s killer prime rib roast
The coolest culinary garden in all the land
Bouchon Bakery’s stellar lemon raspberry cake for two
Have you ever worked in a restaurant? Which job would you like to have?