20 amazing holidays to rediscover Thailand
The first time I went to Thailand, I was 18 and had just read The Beach by Alex Garland. Back then, everyone had just read The Beach by Alex Garland, about a backpacker who searches for an idyllic island paradise off the coast of Thailand, and so I was by no means the only teenage Brit making the journey to Bangkok in 1998.
I had never been further than Spain, and my mum packed me off with some traveller’s cheques, a packet of Dioralyte, and a warning not to smuggle drugs. This was the kind of small-minded thing you said back then. Anyway, arriving in Bangkok, I couldn’t believe it. The whole world opened up to me in the time it took to get a tuk-tuk to Patpong and open the first of many Singha beers.
I saw things I didn’t know were possible, and I don’t just mean in the infamous bars of the strip. I gawped at Wat Arun Temple, and got an overnight train to Chiang Mai. I trekked with hill tribes. I drank moonshine. I believe I met a family of water buffalo, though that could have been the moonshine. Not once did I encounter food poisoning or drugs to smuggle, just friendliness and that all-important joy that comes from experiencing a different culture for the first time. I absolutely loved it.
So much so, that I have returned to Thailand every decade since – and each time it has shown me something different. In Koh Samui, at the age of 29, I got over a broken heart with a best friend, kick-boxing all my sadness out during the day and drinking it away (more Singha beer) in the evening. Then, in the winter of 2019, I went back with my husband and daughter. There, we had our best ever Christmas on the beach at the Anantara Layan Phuket, paddleboarding and snorkelling and eating seafood instead of turkey. “Khob khun kha!” my daughter parroted at every person she passed. We saw in 2020 hanging out with monitor lizards. It was the last place we went as a family before the pandemic hit, and at the bleakest points we have cheered ourselves up reminiscing about Mai Khao Beach.
So it’s good to know that Thailand is opening up again to vaccinated travellers. There is nowhere I’d rather go to start exploring the wider world again after 18 months at home. Koh Phi Phi, anyone?
Bryony Gordon
1. Blow the budget honeymooners
Fantasy is forever blurred with reality in dreamy Thailand. Fairy-temples, exotic flavours and endless beaches set the scene for romance, making it a hot favourite for newlyweds and couples seeking to reignite a spark. Make up for holidays lost by planning a celebration of epic proportions, exploring every inch of the country in style with Original Travel’s tailor-made Megamoon. See Bangkok from above on a helicopter ride above the Grand Palace, learn how to meditate from masters in Chiang Mai and disconnect from the outside world in the northern highlands. Finish off on a high at Soneva Kiri on Koh Kood island, where treetop dinners are served by a waiter on a zipline.
A 17-day trip starts from ￡28,115pp, including flights (020 3582 4990; originaltravel.co.uk).
2. Fitness freaks
Treat your body like a temple but train it to be a powerful weapon by getting to grips with the ancient sport of Muay Thai. Known as the art of eight limbs, the athletic form of kickboxing uses elbows, knees and every bit of body available to knock down an opponent, building both muscle and mental strength in the process. Master the basics on a FitVentures group holiday with TruTravels, staying in Bangkok and Koh Phangan. Yoga sessions, Pilates classes, bike rides and sunset beach workouts fill a calorie-busting itinerary, leaving ample time to wind down with spa sessions and massages at the Wonderland Resort.
A nine-day Thailand Energise trip costs from ￡895 pp, excluding flights (020 3542 2463; trutravels.com).
3. Walking enthusiasts
Yes, Thai beaches are beautiful – but opportunities for heavenly holidays at higher altitudes soar sky high. Part of the Himalayan mountain range, Doi Inthanon National Park rises 2,565 meters above sea level in the north of Thailand, creating a hiking wonderland above the clouds. Trek through evergreen forest, where gibbons and deer still roam, or visit in January when Siamese Sakura flowers are in full cherry blossom bloom. Combine a trip with the neighbouring Mae Wang District, spending time with indigenous hill tribes and overnighting at traditional homestays.
Inside Asia offers an 11-night Trek Northern Thailand trip from ￡2,165pp, excluding flights (0117 244 3380; insideasiatours.com).
4. Adventurous families
Rattling through a dull list of dates will instantly lose a child’s attention but put them in a tuk-tuk and historical sightseeing immediately appeals. Finding new ways to keep young minds active, Stubborn Mule have devised a family adventure sampling cities and national parks. Cycle through Bangkok’s backstreets; meet the crab-eating macaques of Erawan National Park; and jump onboard an overnight train to Chiang Mai. After spending time at a responsibly run elephant sanctuary, kids can bed down for a sleepover with a difference at a stilt house homestay.
A 15-day Highlights of Thailand tour costs from ￡11,995 for a family of four, including flights (0172 875 2751; stubbornmuletravel.com).
5. Foodie fanatics
Food is undoubtedly Thailand’s greatest worldwide export. But a neighbourhood take-away is nothing compared to tasting the real deal. Discover regional specialities and national oddities on a culinary and cultural journey, learning from local chefs, shopping at floating markets and dining in family homes. Alongside variations of classics like pad Thai and khanom krok, take the opportunity to sample more experimental creations such as elephant dung coffee, fried bugs sold at an edible insects market and – weirder still – Thai wine, cultivated in the Asoke Valley.
Gane & Marshall offer a 10-night Taste of Thailand tour from ￡1,998 pp, excluding flights (0182 260 0600; ganeandmarshall.com).
6. Off the beaten trackers
Tribal tourism is a delicate topic. Conducted properly, however, travel can be a powerful force for good, benefiting communities financially. Determined to make a positive impact, G Adventures supports several community projects in rural northern Thailand through their non-profit arm Planeterra. Living close to the Myanmar border and considered too remote by most operators, the Mae Hong Son hill tribe receive funds for hosting G customers on homestays. Equally overlooked due to their location close to Krabi in western Thailand, the Laem Sak Community benefit by guiding kayak rides.
Experience both projects on a 14-day Thailand Hike, Bike and Kayak tour from ￡1,492 pp, excluding flights (020 7243 9870; gadventures.com).
7. Cash-conscious travellers
There’s a reason backpacking students flock east on their gap years: cheap prices and excellent service mean even paupers can travel like kings. Balance budget with comfortable accommodation by joining an escorted tour, guaranteeing the best value by travelling as a group and stretching pennies to cover longer stays. Averaging around ￡60 per day, G Adventures have struck gold with a trip encompassing the country’s highlights. Trek with hill tribes in the north, relax on golden beaches in the south and plug into the electrifying Night Markets of Bangkok.
The 15-day Thailand: Night Markets and Blue Waters trip costs from ￡899 pp, excluding flight (020 7243 9870; gadventures.com).
8. Sun-craving families
A laid-back alternative to the hectic throng of Phuket, Khao Lak’s white-sand beaches showcase a slower pace of life along the Andaman coast. The TUI BLUE Mai Khao Lak is the perfect fit for families with their sights set on sun loungers and the sparkling sea. From large pools with swim-up bars, to buffet restaurants and age-specific kids clubs, all bases are covered. Beyond the resort’s comfortable confines, the Phan-Nga’s natural attractions are also appealing. Nearby Khao Sok National Park is one of the oldest rainforests in the world, while the Surin and Similan Islands – a short boat ride away – are excellent for snorkelling and diving.
TUI offer a seven-night stay from ￡1,287pp (four sharing), including flights from Manchester on December 22 (020 3451 2688; tui.co.uk).
9. History enthusiasts
Mighty civilisations shaped the culture of Southeast Asia, leaving a legacy of magnificent temples and opulent palaces. In Ayutthaya, spiralling towers and sprawling monasteries hint at the splendour of a 14th century Siamese kingdom, while the Sukhothai Historical Park is a marvel of Khmer shrines. Filling the gaps between crumbling ruins requires the expertise of a knowledgeable guide – all part of the package on Inside Asia’s Kingdoms of Thailand tour. Spiral back several centuries at top World Heritage sites and lost cities to discover what makes this modern-day destination tick.
An eight-night trip costs from ￡1,795 pp, excluding flights (0117 244 3380; insideasiatours.com).
10. Rail obsessives
Sparked by Queen Victoria’s gift of a model railway, King Rama IV commissioned the country’s first railway line in the late 19th century. Taking a ride along the tracks is a journey back in time, passing through coruscating paddy fields and white picket-fenced stations plucked from a Hornby toy set. Do it properly with a trip on Belmond’s Eastern & Oriental Express, a glamorous cherrywood sleeper train finessed with Thai silk fabrics, intricate marquetry and a grand piano in the lounge bar. Stops include a guided tour of the controversial Bridge on the River Kwai and the Thai Burma Railway Museum.
Cox & Kings offer a seven-night trip from ￡4,695pp , including flights (020 3797 8866; coxandkings.co.uk).
11. First timers
Punchier than one of its explosive trademark curries, Thailand can be overwhelming at first sight. A complex jigsaw of ancient kingdoms, tribal cultures and seasonal weather systems can only be pieced together after several visits. Stepping foot into the country for the first time, it’s hard to know where to start. Abercrombie & Kent’s 13-night Discover Thailand trip gives a decent introduction, covering off the highlights from Chiang Mai’s jungle-wrapped mountains right down to the Gulf of Thailand’s beaming-white beaches. Essential temples, palaces and flower markets are all ticked off, leaving enough time to switch off and relax.
A 13-night Discover Thailand trip costs from ￡3,975pp, including flights (0124 238 6500; abercrombiekent.co.uk).
12. Wildlife water babies
Heart-poundingly beautiful at the surface, the Phi Phi islands are even more of a mind-bending spectacle underwater. Limestone mountains plunge to great depths, creating walls for a for an unusual array of brightly daubed soft corals. Swim into caves concealed by fanning gorgonians, searching for seahorses and shrimpfish who reside in the delicate fronds, and float through gardens filled with stag horns and a white bushes shaped like Christmas trees. Between February and March, leopard, nurse and reef sharks can be seen at the appropriately named shark point.
Dive Worldwide offers a 10-day Koh Phi Phi scuba diving trip from ￡2,595pp , including 10 dives and flights. Departs from November to May (0196 230 2087; diveworldwide.com).
13. National Geographic explorers
As comfortable underwater as they are on land, Moken spear fishers can freedive to dizzying depths with one single breath. The ancestral skill is now part of their DNA, allowing them to comfortably survive without interruption from the outside world. Get an insight into their way of life on a trip to the Surin Islands, a reef-fringed archipelago in the Andaman Sea. Listen to songs and stories shared inside beach homes built on stilts, hike into surrounding forests to forage for medicinal plants, and snorkel with a Moken guide for an authentic taste of sea gypsy living – encountering sharks, mantas and sea turtles along the way.
Pelorus offers a 10-night Thailand’s Charming Culture and Coastal Wonders tour from ￡10,500pp, excluding flights (020 3848 5424; pelorusx.com).
14. Ethical wildlife lovers
Southeast Asia’s forests and grasslands once swelled with Asian elephants. But – just like their African cousins – the species is in devastating decline. Once used to tug logs around forests many end their days carrying tourists on jungle rides. But award-winning Elephant Hills Camp have found an alternative and more humane way to fund the animals’ upkeep. As part of a small group session, guests at the tented camp in Khao Sok National park can watch the elephants take a mud bath and join in feeding sessions, ensuring an up-close encounter without compromising the creatures in any way.
Audley offers a 13-day Thailand for families: elephants & island escape from ￡2,610pp (four sharing), including flights (0199 346 0875; audleytravel.com).
15. Isolation worshippers
Proof safari-style adventures aren’t restricted to Africa, the Four Seasons Golden Triangle tented camp promises immersion in nature and an introduction to Thailand’s wilder side. Engulfed by bamboo jungle and the Ruak and Mekong rivers, glampers wake every morning to the sounds of trumpeting elephants. Fishing lessons and hilltop cycling tours provide a chance to meet local communities and appreciate the environment. Alternatively, lazy days can be spent admiring mountain views of Myanmar and Laos, participating in a guided meditation session or being pampered in the open-air spa.
Steppes offer a four-day trip from ￡5,650pp , including flights (0128 588 0980; steppestravel.com).
16. Multi-generational gatherers
After months of Zoom sessions and Facetime calls, physically reconnecting with family is a key priority for 2022. Start the year on the right footing with a family-friendly escape, balancing the needs of peace-loving grandparents with the demands of entertainment-seeking teens. Available for exclusive hire, ANI Private Resorts offer a 10-suite oceanfront property on the island of Koh Yao Noi, equipped with security, housekeeping, a butler and a resort GM. A dedicated concierge can arrange spa treatments or plan treasure hunts for kids and with all meals prepared by an Executive Chef, there won’t be any arguments about whose turn it is to do the washing up.
The Villa Collection offer a seven-night stay from ￡7,650pp (20 sharing), including flights on December 20 (020 7183 3554; thevillacollection.com).
17. Spa devotees
Guiding guests along a path to achieve happiness and spiritual well-being, Thailand’s spa retreats famously deliver much more than a standard massage and body scrub. Operational for more than 25 years, Chiva-Som leads the pack, with devotees regularly making a pilgrimage to worship at its temple of treatment rooms. Surrounded by tropical gardens in Hua Hin, a two-hour drive from Bangkok, the beachside complex offers a dizzying menu of therapies: Tai Chi classes, floatation sessions and chakra balancing can all be incorporated into programmes. Get a good all-round overview with A Taste of Chiva-Som package, improving health, well-being and happiness through fitness classes, massage, hydrotherapy and physiotherapy.
Healing Holidays offers a three-night package from ￡1,799pp , excluding flights (020 7843 3597; healingholidays.com).
18. Seafaring sailors
The star of several big screen productions, Phang Nga Bay masqueraded as a Wookie planet in Star Wars and provided an exotic backdrop for Roger Moore’s James Bond. Weaving through the cluster of limestone karsts, however, scenes are far grander than any CGI wizardry could conjure up. Join a voyage onboard a 14-passenger twin-hulled catamaran to explore hidden lagoons and remote islands inhabited by gibbons. Spend evenings stargazing from bean bags strewn across the deck, while a chef cooks Thai classics.
Intrepid Travel offers a seven-day Phuket Sailing Adventure from ￡1,235pp, excluding flights (0808 274 5111; intrepidtravel.com).
19. Urban dreamers
Bold, boisterous and charismatically chaotic, Bangkok has inspired artists and writers for decades. Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham and John le Carré all holed up at the Mandarin Oriental, still the city’s undisputed grand dame 146 after its teak doors first opened. Every room of the riverside building is soaked in nostalgia and the impeccable golden era service hasn’t faulted one bit. A wooden boat shuttles guests to the Oriental Spa, housed in a restored century-old house. Try a signature treatment of body wrap and bamboo pummelling, or experiment with a Muay Thai massage inspired by the energetic martial art.
Elegant Resorts offers a seven-night stay from ￡5,800pp, including flights (0124 489 7271; elegantresorts.co.uk).
20. Experience seekers
Untouched by the outside world, traditions have been practised for centuries in the rural and rarely visited eastern region Isaan. One of the greatest spectacles is the Loy Krathong festival of lights, celebrated on the 12th lunar month (November). Using community contacts, Black Tomato have secured special access to the event, allowing guests to watch as boat-shaped krathongs are filled with offerings, lit and floated down the Mekong river. The longer flames burn, the better fortunes will be for the year ahead.
A 14-night Bangkok & Isaan trip costs from ￡5,750pp , excluding flights (0808 280 8438; blacktomato.com).
Sarah Marshall
Five hotels for a characterful stay in Thailand
The Barai, Hua Hin
Hua Hin’s Barai has perhaps the most ostentatious spa in Thailand – from the outside its ochre walls remind of a Moroccan Kasbah. Inside, the aesthetics and tranquility of a Khmer temple take over. It’s located right on the beach, and part of the Hyatt Regency group, with eight huge suites that have arched ceilings and enormous bathrooms dominated by white marble tubs. The wellness focus comes into its own with carefully calibrated detox treatments and a supremely tasty and healthy menu at beachside restaurant McFarland House.
Doubles from ￡348 including breakfast (0066 32 511 234; thebarai.com). Read the full expert review here.
Banyan Tree Samui, Koh Samui
Thai beach resorts are rarely more splendidly isolated than the Banyan Tree Samui, which is nestled in a jungle-covered horseshoe-shaped bay of rocky headlands and azure water. The huge, sumptuous villas all have their own pools and are spaced far enough apart to make encounters with other guests unlikely. On the beach, an incredible variety of often free sports and wellness activities reinforce the sense that the Banyan Tree Samui is one of Thailand’s best self-contained resorts.
Doubles from ￡407 including breakfast (0066 77 915 333; banyantree.com). Read the full expert review here.
Rachamankha, Chiang Mai
In the historic centre of Chiang Mai, this sumptuous boutique hotel offers just 25 lime-plastered, high-ceilinged rooms, arranged around a central courtyard that’s straight out of a Shaolin temple in a vintage martial arts movie. The owner-architect’s collection of antiques, with items from across Asia, Europe and Africa, goes back to the 13th century and lends extra authenticity to the historic ambience of this adult-oriented resort. A library of several thousand titles, many on Asian art, a small museum and a 20m-long, retro-chic pool in a well-kept garden round off this genuinely sophisticated affair.
Doubles from ￡102 including breakfast (0066 53 904 111; rachamankha.com). Read the full expert review here.
Prince Heritage Theatre Stay, Bangkok
The two retro-themed master suites, all wooden floors and shutters, at the Art Deco Prince Heritage Theatre in Chinatown are quite unlike any other hotel rooms in Bangkok, located right behind the huge screen of this former 100-year-old cinema. The lobby, which features the aforementioned screen (often used for silent classic film footage accompanied by eclectic ambient sounds), a vintage projector and a bar that serves movie-themed cocktails, also houses a small exhibition documenting the history and restoration of this spectacular property.
Doubles from ￡38 including breakfast (0066 20 902 858, princeheritage.com). Read the full expert review here.
Praya Palazzo, Bangkok
One of Bangkok’s most private hotels sits on the banks of the Chao Praya River, close to the Thai capital’s historic sites, and is only accessible by boat. The ochre-colored Italian-style villa was built by a royal tax collector a century ago, a heritage rarity in the city’s hyper-modern hotelscape, and is embedded in a luscious garden with a pool at its centre. The popular restaurant re-emphasises the old-world ambience with a sumptuous palette of Thai dishes rooted in different eras of the kingdom’s history, while the wooden patio is the perfect place from where to watch river life or read a book, cocktail in hand.
Doubles from ￡60 including breakfast (0066 81 402 8118, prayapalazzo.com). Read the full expert review here.
Tom Vater
