Britain's 20 most beautiful hidden beaches
Stretching for thousands of miles, with uninhabited islands and unseen inlets, our coast is the greatest tract of untouched wilderness left in Britain today. This is a Narnia where untouched sands lie as fresh as snow, sea caves beckon you to enter and vast stretches of marram grass dunes hide seals and kittiwakes.
Many of my childhood memories were of hot coconut gorse under a midsummer sun, descending impossibly steep narrow tracks in search of secret beaches with my family. We were intrepid explorers, not very “health and safety”, and loved nothing more than to arrive somewhere inaccessible and empty.
For the past decade or so I have been -journeying Britain’s untrodden shorelines again, researching a -series of new wild guides to the coast and beaches. The sand and sea have become my buddies once more, the last things I see at night and the first sounds that greet me when I wake. Once you arrive at your secret beach, a heroic plunge into the shimmering blue abyss is guaranteed to transform you from a groggy mass of city -fuddle into a fully awake human -being; splashing, squealing and alive. -Dripping on the sand afterwards, -tingling all over, the natural high quickly kicks in. Forget the coffee, this is the real deal. In an instant you’ll want to dive back in.
And you don’t need to queue for ice creams and car parks either – all the -entertainment is at hand on your secret beach. The sporty you can mark up all manner of courses and courts for -volleyball, boules, crazy golf, obstacle races and countless variations of the comedy Olympics. The more arty you (should you be one of those who fancy themselves as an -aspiring Goldsworthy or Gormley) can make zen gardens from pebbles and flotsam, and collages from seaweed.
Even at the height of summer, it is possible to find beaches where you will be the only visitor all day. With an adventurous spirit, a map, and some -local knowledge, a lesser-known wild world awaits.
South West
1. Nanjizal, Land’s End, West Cornwall
This is the real Land’s End, a world away from the theme park just along the cliffs. Gaping sandstone caves look like they might once have held sleeping dragons and low tide reveals a white sand beach, though the shape of it changes depending on the winter storms. The Song of the Sea rock arch holds an emerald plunge pool which beckons you to swim right through to the ocean on the other side. Walk south to find further coves at St Levan, Pedn Vounder and Porthgwarra (where there’s a simple tea room, TR19 6JR, 01736 871754).
Two miles between Land’s End and Porthgwarra on the SW Coast Path.
Grid ref 50.0539, -5.6930
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2. Porthbeor Beach, St Anthony, South Cornwall
Decked with tropical gardens and secret churches, the Roseland peninsula is a lost-in-time sort of place. There are good beaches at Great Molunan, near the lighthouse, and Towan, but this is the best and least known, and only a one-minute stroll from the road. Long, wild and sandy, with fantastic rock pools, you’ll find a super-secret cove to the north which can be accessed at low tide. This is the sort of place where Crusoe would have felt at home, so try some bass fishing from the shore and cook it on your driftwood fire.
By the junction to Bohortha (near St Anthony, TR2 5HA), find a path down to the cliff ending in wooden steps.
50.1494, -4.9919
3. Speke’s Mill Mouth, Hartland, North Devon
A 50-metre waterfall plunges down a chasm on to this vast empty bay on Devon’s lesser known “shipwreck coast”. Atlantic rollers crash on to the rocky foreshore, bringing driftwood, shells and the debris of boats long ago sunk on these treacherous shores. Long fingers of soft sand stretch out into the ocean, forming deep clear rock pools between smooth rock slabs. -Afterwards, share your tales at the Wrecker’s Retreat Bar at Hartland Quay (EX39 6DU, 01237 441218) or have a cream tea at Docton Mill gardens (EX39 6EA, 01237 441369).
One mile south of the South West Coast Path from Hartland Quay.
50.9848, -4.5297
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4. Gammon Head, East Prawle, South Devon
The best of a trio of pearly, rugged coves along this southerly stretch of south Devon coast. In early summer, marsh fritillaries and silver-studded blue -butterflies flit on the warm summer breeze, and meadow pipits and skylarks dart among the heather. Just east of Gammon Head a steep path and rope descend to Elender Cove, a narrow slice of secret sand beneath towering rock pinnacles. The clear waters make for great snorkelling. The legendary Pig’s Nose in the village is famous for its live music, good food and eccentric ambience (TQ7 2BY, 01548 511209) and there are several basic summer campsites in the fields around.
Continue through East Prawle and park at the road end (Prawle Point). Follow the Coast Path one mile west.
50.2087, -3.7297
5. Worbarrow Bay, Tyneham, Dorset
In 1943 the villagers of Tyneham here were evicted from their idyllic coastal location in the remote Dorset -Purbecks in order for the Army to set up a temporary training ground for the war effort – and they were never allowed to return. Now the woods and fields are havens for wildlife and the ruins are fascinating to explore. The half moon bay forms a perfect crescent of sand, set beneath rolling downs and ancient woods. There are sea caves in the cove to the left, and a grassy hill fort to climb too.
Situated on lanes between East -Lulworth and Corfe Castle but closed on Army firing days.
50.6170, -2.1844
East & South
6. Brancaster, Norfolk
The beach and dunes here stretch for miles in both directions. To the east is Titchwell Marsh nature reserve, famous for its migrating birds. Ahead is Scolt Head -Island, on which seals wallow and bask. To the west lies the iconic wreck of the SS Vina steamship, sunk on the sand flats by the military in 1944 for use as a target for bombing practice and revealed and then resubmerged with the tide. Gastropubs abound here: The Ship (PE31 8AP, 01485 210333), the Jolly Sailors (PE31 8BJ, 01485 210314) and The White Horse (PE31 8BY, 01485 210262) all offer great food alongside shelter from the wind.
Four miles west of Burnham Overy Staithe on A149. Turn at church then park at the golf club.
52.9749, 0.6369
7. Covehithe, Suffolk
The lane ends abruptly at the crumbling cliff edge and a roofless church in a lost village stands surrounded by empty fields. This is an eerie kind of place and a visceral reminder of the power of the sea. Luckily these same forces have also carved out one of Suffolk’s best secret beaches, backed by a shimmering shallow -lagoon, and teeming with bird life. The cliffs are crumbling all around, but the sea pounds in on an empty beach, -perfect for being alone with nature.
From Wrentham (A12) turn off for Covehithe. Take footpath right, 100yds before church (NR34 7JW). Follow field edge to beach. Limited parking.
52.3669, 1.7048
8. Birling Gap, Eastbourne, Sussex
The Seven Sisters white cliffs are iconic, but not many know about the beach at the bottom. A switchback metal stairway and a vertiginous boat-launching ramp lead down to the wildest beach in Sussex. A vast expanse of chalk rock pools filled with marine delights and a narrow gut of shingle and sand leads out to sea for swimmers. For a few hours around low tide the adventurous can explore this wild foreshore, and even trek all the way to Beachy Head or -Cuckmere Haven.
BEWARE: Be very careful – you need to know your tides.
Signed from Friston (A259). The Birling Gap café above is full of Thirties vintage charm and serves cream teas (BN20 0AB, 01323 423197).
50.7426, 0.2009
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9. Shepherd’s Chine, Chale, Isle of Wight
The south-western coast of the Isle of Wight boasts miles of beach but it is only accessible by a handful of small “chines”, stream gorges that tumble steeply down to the shingle below. Shepherd’s Chine is great for sunsets and driftwood fires and the stream has created beautiful formations in the pebbles. This is also the place for night bass fishing, so bring your rod and try your luck under the moonlight. -BEWARE: The beach shelves steeply, so take care of undertows when the sea is rough.
Two miles north of Chale on the A3055.
50.6164, -1.3702
Wales
10. Traeth Mawr, Monknash, Glamorgan
The Glamorgan coastline around Cardiff is often overlooked by those heading straight for the Gower, but here dramatic cliffs of stacked limestone give way to fine low-tide sands, empty except for the -occasional naturist. At Traeth Mawr there is an old mill and a woodland stream tumbles down to a vast beach with flat rock platforms perfect for sunbathing. In the village of Monknash above there is an ancient inn built into the ruins of the old monastery and its inglenook is the perfect place to warm up after a swim.
Follow B4265 from A48 to Monknash. Park near end of lane by farm and follow woodland path ? mile to beach. Plough and Harrow, Monknash (CF71 7QQ, 01656 890209, ploughandharrow.org) specialises in real ales and ciders from the West Country.
51.4185, -3.5767
11. Church Doors and Skrinkle Haven, Manorbier
Hidden behind an old Army camp, contorted rock stratas have created an abbey-sized archway on this beautiful south-facing sandy beach. From here, a secret rock tunnel leads through to Skrinkle Haven, where a mammoth sea cave, over 50 feet tall, can be found and acres more sand. It’s great for sea kayaking although you can swim round too. You’ll likely have the sands all to yourself.
BEWARE: don’t stay too long, or you might get caught out by the tide.
Turn off the B4585 east of Manorbier signed to the Army camp and youth hostel. Park beyond the hostel and descend on the metal stairway.
51.64245, -4.77435
12. Traeth Llyfn, Abereiddi, Pembrokeshire
This great sweep of empty sand on the dramatic Pembrokeshire National Park coastline was once used to break the world skinny dipping record. It’s suitably remote and private, about a 15-minute walk from the stunning Blue Lagoon; a turquoise flooded quarry with great jumping and swimming. If you continue north east up the coast, past several more secret coves, you will reach the old ruins above Porthgain and can then relax on the harbour front at the quirky Sloop Inn (SA62 5BN, 01348 831449).
Signed Abereiddi, nine miles from -Fishguard or six miles from St Davids. Parking at beach.
51.9435, -5.1992
13. Porth Wen, Bull Bay, Anglesey
This forgotten bay is one of the most intriguing of Anglesey’s many coves. Down an unsigned, little-used path you suddenly come upon a ruined harbour and old brickworks with a honeycomb of furnaces and chimney stacks to explore. The beach is made of perfect quartz white shingle and there is a natural rock arch to swim through. Walk up the coast north ? mile to Porth Llanlleiana to find another ghost harbour with ruins and beach.
Turn right two miles north of Bull Bay on A5025 (LL67 0NA). Find two -footpath signs on right and take the second one, 10 minutes walk.
53.4245, -4.4061
14. Porth Iago, Llyn Peninsula, Gwynedd
This thick wedge of pure white, west-facing sand occupies a deep cleft in the cliffs. There are flower-filled dunes and a hill fort, perfect for spotting pods of dolphins jumping through the waves at sunset. It’s a bumpy drive down through the old farm but you wild camp above the beach for a few pounds extra. This is a good place to seek out spider crabs at low tide – they are one of the tastiest types of crabmeat, though picking them up is a bit tricky!
Signed 1? mile before Rhoshirwaun, on the Aberdaron road (B4413). Take the second right after 2? miles, then first left (LL53 8LP).
52.8516, -4.7217
North
15. Coves Haven, Holy Island, Northumberland
Holy Island, or Lindisfarne, was the birthplace of Christianity in England. Many cross the tidal causeway to visit the monastery founded by St Aidan of Iona in the seventh century but few know about the beach on the north side of the island. This haven is where the monks would retreat to commune with the ocean and cleanse themselves in the waves. The sandy bay is overlooked by sandstone caves that are homes to birds of prey.
Turn left and left again out of the car park and follow unsigned lane up past the farm buildings and on through scrub for a mile. On the return, stop at the delightful churchyard of St Mary and adjacent priory ruins. Refuel at the Crown & Anchor (TD15 2RX, 01289 389215).
55.6878, -1.7993
16. Drigg and Eskdale, Lake District
The Lake District is not all lakes and fells – the National Park also has a spectacular coastline. At Drigg, a 1,000 acre expanse of empty dunes and nature reserve stretch for miles along the Irish Sea and form an important breeding site for the rare natterjack toad. Just beyond is Ravenglass, a tidal harbour favoured by the Romans, and the terminus of a little railway that climbs up into Eskdale.
From Drigg/B5344 turn off signed “Station and Shore” (CA19 1XR). In Ravenglass enjoy a drink on the shore at the Pennington Hotel (CA18 1SD, 01229 717222). Ravenglass and Eskdale Mountain Railway (01229 717171)
54.3725, -3.4681
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17. Anderby, Lincolnshire
Not often considered a summer holiday destination, Lincolnshire is a land where shimmering fens merge with endless sand and marine horizons which inspire painters and stargazers alike. When the Cloud Appreciation Society was established in 2005, with a manifesto pledging to fight the banality of “blue-sky thinking”, it set up its first cloud-watching observatory on the remote beach at Anderby. It’s just a larch beach hut with roof terrace and recumbent beach chairs, but it all adds to the laid back feel of this coastline.
Three miles north of Chapel St Leonards, accessed via breaks in the sea wall (PE24 5XY). Also try Wolla Bank to the south.
53.2597, 0.3252
Scotland
18. Uig Bay, Isle of Lewis, Outer Hebrides
Legendary beaches adorn the islands of the Outer Hebrides, and Uig Bay on the Isle of Lewis is possibly the most spectacular. Even under storm clouds the water glows an unearthly jade over the iridescent shell sand. The best part of the bay is Carnais, at the end of a dead end track beyond a small whisky micro-distillery. Drop down through wild flower -meadows of orchid and harebells to dunes. The water is cold, but in the summer sun the top layer warms up nicely. There are camping facilities down on Ardroil beach and if you want to explore further bays try the beaches and machair meadows at -Bhaltos and Kneep.
Signed Carnais/Carnish (HS2 9EX), on the bend three miles west of Timsgearraidh community centre and shop, beyond Ardroil beach and camping.
58.1808, -7.0559
19. Fidden, Isle of Mull, Inner Hebrides
Some say Mull doesn’t have sandy beaches, but the south-west tip is riddled with secret coves. At Fidden a wild campsite on grassy meadows awaits, leading down to a sandy bay with westerly views over the Iona archipelago. Sunsets are -sublime and you should try swimming out to one of the tiny islets. At low tide you can wade across to Erraid, Stevenson’s Treasure Island, and a path also leads to the lost village of Tireragan.
Turn left in Fionnphort by the Keel Row pub (01681 700458) and find the farm after two miles with roadside parking (PA66 6BN, 01681 700427).
56.3085, -6.3672
20. Seacliff Beach, North Berwick
Less than 45 minutes from central Edinburgh, this beach is hidden under a wooded hillside. There are views up to the ruins of clifftop -Tantallon Castle, dating from the 14th century, and out to sea is the guano-capped island of Bass Rock, rising like a cupcake from the sea. To the left of the beach is a tiny harbour inlet with jumps and swimming.
Three miles east of North Berwick (A198), turn left down track at Auldhame Farm (EH39 5PP).
56.0535, -2.6326
Britain's 40 best beaches – according to our experts
Hidden Beaches by Daniel Start is published by Wild Things (￡16.99). For more information, see books.telegraph.co.uk; also available in print and app from wildthingspublishing.com