21 of the best ways to enjoy winter in Britain
The heating is on. The leaves are gone. Darkness is descending before tea time. Basically, winter is upon us, and the temptation to curl up and hibernate is strong. But resist. Not only is there plenty of fun to be had in the great British outdoors right now, despite the chill, it’s important for your mental and physical health too.
The NHS estimates that Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) affects one in 15 people in the UK. The depression-like symptoms – which can be particularly severe throughout December, January and February – result from decreased exposure to sunlight. Even if you’re not a SAD sufferer, getting out and making the most of winter’s meagre rays can help improve your mood. Not to mention that getting out and active can help counteract the inevitable eating and drinking excesses of the festive season.
Some might be lucky enough to fly south for a shot of winter sun. But there’s no need – there is an array of outdoor pleasures to tempt you off the sofa at home. Britain can be brilliant in this so-called bad weather.
This is a time of crowd-free trails, honeypots without tourists, air laced with woodsmoke and dark-beamed pubs at their cosiest. It’s a time of new views revealed by denuded trees, frosts that lend forests the magic of Narnia and some of the country’s best wildlife spectacles – from vast flocks of overwintering birds to the birth of wide-eyed seal pups.
The British landscape, often lauded for its gentle, bucolic charm, can become fiercer too. Stormy seas provide gnarlier, more consistent waves, hill hikes turn into crampon-worthy expeditions and mountains cloaked in snow offer Alps-lite sports potential. No need to fear, though – there are plenty of experts who can show you how to explore safely through the season. All you need is a sense of adventure. And a good coat.
1. Cold coasteer in Cornwall
When winter tides and heavy swells smash Cornwall, the act of leaping about all over the coast becomes extra thrilling. Yes, you might need a bit more kit – winter wetsuits and extra gumption to brave the cold – but there’s little more exhilarating than heading out to Newquay’s Gazzle Headland with a guide to explore smugglers’ caves, jump off cliffs and plunge into the natural rapids and storm-stirred seas.
Where to stay: Lewinnick Lodge is a hip restaurant-with-rooms, perched on Pentire Head (B&B doubles from ￡155; telegraph.co.uk/tt-lewinnick-lodge-hotel).
A two-hour North Coast Challenge with Newquay Activity Centre costs ￡45pp (01637 877722; newquayactivitycentre.co.uk).
2. Marvel at murmurations in Somerset
The Somerset Levels is that rarest of things: a conservation success story. And this is especially evident in winter, when the seasonal wetlands attract masses of wildfowl, birds of prey and million-strong flocks of starlings that perform the most mesmerising aerial acrobatics. Call the RSPB’s Starling Hotline (07866 554142) for the latest updates, or join a guided trip.
Where to stay:The Swan is a good-value gastropub in the Levels village of Wedmore (B&B doubles from ￡67; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-swan-wedmore-hotel).
A three-day Somerset Levels break with Naturetrek costs from ￡325pp including accommodation, most meals and expert guides (Jan 11, Feb 1 & 6 2019; 01962 733051; naturetrek.co.uk).
3. Cruise crisp canals in Wiltshire
Britain’s canals are crowd-free, mist-hung and magical in winter. You just need to pick the right boat. Ideally one with good radiators, hot showers and a wood-burning stove, to ensure life aboard stays cosy. Try Simone, a four-berth narrowboat based in beautiful Bradford-on-Avon, from where you can float along the Kennet & Avon Canal, jumping off for bracing towpath walks or floating into Bath for the Christmas Market (Nov 22- Dec 9).
Where to stay: Non-boaters can stay near Bradford’s canal at boutiquey Widbrook Grange Hotel (B&B doubles from ￡185; telegraph.co.uk/tt-widbrook-grange-hotel).
A three-night break aboard Simone with Waterways Holidays costs from ￡695 (01252 796400; waterwaysholidays.com).
4. Dog sled in Gloucestershire
Snow or no snow, you can carouse with canines like you’re in the Arctic Circle just outside Tewkesbury. Spend time with the gorgeous huskies, getting hands-on with the pack, before learning how to mush your own team aboard a dryland rig – a sort of stand-on tricycle – through the countryside. Hot drinks around the campfire, or even a night spent in the on-site Sami Tipi, adds to the Lapland vibe.
Where to stay: Tewkesbury Park looks out on the Cotswolds and Malverns (B&B doubles from ￡99; telegraph.co.uk/tt-cotswolds-tewkesbury-park-hotel).
A two-hour Full Mushing Experience with Arctic Quest costs ￡99pp, Tipi from ￡99 (07968 794758; arcticquest.co.uk).
5. Canoe like a Canadian in the New Forest
Brrrrrisk but beautiful, that’s the Beaulieu River in winter – there’s no more invigorating time to take to the water. Wrap up warm and hop in either a Canadian-style canoe or stable touring kayak for a guided glide along the glassy river from the old shipbuilding site of Baileys Hard. Breathe in the crisp air, nose down creeks and keep an eye out for winter wildlife along the frost-fringed banks.
Where to stay: The handsome Master Builder’s sits right by the River Beaulieu (B&B doubles from ￡99; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-master-builders-hotel).
Two-hour Winter Paddles with New Forest Activities cost ￡15/20 child/adult. Available November-March (01590 612377; newforestactivities.co.uk; thenewforest.co.uk).
6. Curl in Kent
Channel your inner Winter Olympian at the only proper curling rink in the south of England. Just outside of Tunbridge Wells, Fentons provides curling tuition and equipment throughout the colder months. Find some friends (curling is usually played with two teams of four), hire a lane and learn how to slide, sweep and smack your stones like a pro.
Where to stay: One Warwick Park is a contemporary hotel in a converted brewery in Tunbridge Wells (doubles from ￡99 room only; telegraph.co.uk/tt-one-warwick-park-hotel).
A two-hour curling session for up to ten people costs ￡180 including equipment hire and tuition. Fentons rink open October-April (01892 826004; fentonsrink.co.uk).
7. Paddle on the Norfolk Broads
There’s something about the Broads in the winter morning light, especially from a the peaceful, low vantage of a kayak. Guide Martin Rendle leads trips that explore quiet nooks of Hickling Broad not usually accessible to the public. Warm up with coffee and pastries, or escape the Christmas mayhem on the Boxing Day mulled wine and mince pie outing.
Where to stay: The Boathouse is a welcoming restaurant-with-rooms on Ormsby Broad (doubles from ￡85 room only; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-boathouse-hotel).
A 2.5-hour Coffee & Nature Kayak Safari with Norfolk Outdoor Adventures costs from ￡35pp (Dec 1 & 26, Jan5 & 26, Feb 16; 07968 083334; norfolkoutdooradventures.co.uk).
8. Spot seal pups in Lincolnshire
Every winter, hundreds of grey seals gather on the beaches at Donna Nook National Nature Reserve to give birth to fluffball pups – 2,033 pups were born here in 2017. A viewing area is open November-December, so you can watch from a non-intrusive distance. Then head south from the reserve to the new North Sea Observatory, the UK’s first purpose-built marine observatory, to spot more coastal wildlife.
Where to stay: Bridleway B&B is a relaxed, stylish spot near Lincoln (B&B doubles from ￡89; telegraph.co.uk/tt-bridleway-bed-and-breakfast-hotel).
Entry is free to Donna Nook (lincstrust.org.uk) and the North Sea Observatory (01522 552222; lincolnshire.gov.uk/nso).
9. Trail run in the Peak District
Motivating yourself to run in winter can be tough. So hook up with like-minded souls for a group countryside bimbles. UK-based gear company Alpkit leads free weekend trail runs; outings from its Hathersage store often end up on Stanedge Edge, and end with coffee and cake. The stores also has Repair Stations where you can drop off damaged kit, and it’ll be fixed while you’re on your run.
Where to stay: The Samuel Fox Country Inn is well-placed for exploring the Peaks (B&B doubles from ￡130pn; telegraph.co.uk/tt-rothay-manor-hotel).
One-hour runs are free from Alpkit Hathersage on Saturdays at 9.30am. Runs from Alpkit’s Ambleside store are on Sundays at 10am (01433 730930; alpkit.com/stores).
10. Look out for owls in Yorkshire
Owls are easier to spot in leafless trees. And sightings are easier still at the National Centre for Birds of Prey in the North York Moors. The centre runs Winter Owl Evenings, which include a guided tour, mulled wine, a two-course dinner and a torchlit foray into the woods to see owls flying free.
Where to stay: The characterful Black Swan Hotel is in the centre of Helmsley (B&B doubles from ￡155; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-black-swan-hotel).
A Winter Owl Evening at the National Centre for Birds of Prey costs ￡35pp including meal (Dec 15 & 22, Jan 26, Feb 2 & 9; 0844 7422035; ncbp.co.uk).
11. Master icy fells in the Lake District
The fells can become fearsome under a cloak of ice and snow. But spectacular too. The Lake District National Park’s challenging Winter Skills Days, run by Fell Top Assessors who summit Helvellyn daily throughout the season, will teach you the basic snowcraft needed to stay safe. Routes will vary depending on conditions, but will including climbing the 950m-high peak and tramping around Striding Edge.
Where to stay: Helvellyn can be tackled straight from the door of The Inn on the Lake, which overlooks Ullswater (B&B doubles from ￡190; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-inn-on-the-lake-hotel).
A Winter Skills Day Course in the Lake District National Park costs from ￡100pp (Dec-Apr; 01539 724555; lakedistrict.gov.uk).
12. Star-gaze in Northumberland
Winter is when the heavens sparkle best – nights are long and skies are often at their clearest. Head anywhere in the Northumberland International Dark Sky Park if you want a gaze with low light pollution. Or head for Kielder Observatory, where events – from Astro Photography to Introduction to Astronomy – run almost nightly. Plan ahead, too, for the Dark Skies Festival, being held across the national parks of Northumberland, Yorkshire Dales, North York Moors and South Downs in February 2019 (darkskiesnationalparks.org.uk).
Where to stay: The Pheasant Inn is country pub, 10 miles from Kielder Observatory (B&B doubles from ￡110; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-pheasant-inn-hotel).
An Introduction to Astronomy at Kielder Observatory costs ￡15pp (0191 265 5510; kielderobservatory.org).
13. Learn to surf in South Wales
Porthcawl Surf School is certainly undeterred by winter weather – it’s open every day of the year except Christmas. Indeed, the best time of year to surf off the beaches of South Wales tends to be October-February, when bigger storms in the Atlantic create consistent swells. Get properly kitted – wetsuit, booties, gloves, hood – and you won’t notice the chill. Much.
Where to stay: The Coed-Y-Mwstwr Hotel is a country house retreat between the Welsh hills and the surf-slapped coast (B&B doubles from ￡120; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-coed-y-mwstwr-hotel).
A two-hour surfing lesson at Porthcawl Surf School costs from ￡30pp, including board hire and wetsuit (07583 348013; porthcawlsurf.co.uk).
14. Winter forage in Carmarthenshire
Search for your own seasonal supper with RAF engineer turned woodland manager Craig Evans. Hands-on courses, which run year-round, are spent investigating rock pools and mud flats for sea vegetables and other wild ingredients before you cook up the spoils in a sheltered sea cave. According to Craig, pepper dulse (“remarkably like truffles”) and shellfish are particularly good in winter.
Where to stay: Brown’s in Laugharne is a former drinking den of Dylan Thomas (B&B doubles from ￡95; telegraph.co.uk/tt-browns-hotel).
A one-day Classic Foraging Course with Coastal Foraging costs from ￡80pp (under-16s free) including lunch; ￡10 refund for arriving by public transport (01994 427417; coastalforaging.co.uk).
15. Learn hill skills in Snowdonia
Think you can’t hike hills in winter weather and daylight? Not true, according to mountain leader Stephen Jones, who runs a range of guided walks and courses to help people gain confidence in cold climes. On his Winter Walking Skills day, you’ll learn about basic mountain safety, navigation and equipment, including using crampons, before heading out to put theory into practice.
Where to stay: The Olif, in Betws-y-Coed, is a fun, friendly base for Snowdonia (B&B doubles from ￡79; telegraph.co.uk/tt-olif-hotel).
A one-day Winter Walking Skills course with Aim Higher costs from ￡50pp (next course Dec 15; 07877 902624; mountain-hill-courses.co.uk).
16. Zip around North Wales
A drop in temperature can mean a rise in thrills . Zip World has launched Winter Membership, offering unlimited access to the various swings, swoops and shenanigans at its Fforest and Slate Caverns sites. That means you can zoom across a slate quarry on Europe’s largest zip zone and – especially good in inclement weather – trampoline and zip underground as many times as you like.
Where to stay: Caer Rhun Hall has just reopened, following refurbishment (B&B doubles from ￡140; telegraph.co.uk/tt-caer-rhun-hall-hotel).
Combined Winter Membership costs ￡485/155 family/individual; valid Nov 6 2018-Mar 31 2019, excluding Feb 16-Mar 3 (01248 601444; zipworld.co.uk).
17. Snow shoe in Stirlingshire
According to the outdoors experts at C-N-Do Scotland, snow shoeing is just the thing for when the drifts are deep and the forest tracks have turned to ‘porridge’ but you still want to get out in the white stuff. Stride out from Stirling with a guide and, after a bit of technique training, you’ll be happily exploring the powder-dusted glens.
Where to stay: The Andy Murray-owned Cromlix is a stylishly refurbished Victorian retreat in extensive grounds (B&B doubles from ￡250; telegraph.co.uk/tt-cromlix-hotel).
A Snow Shoeing Guided Day with C-N-Do Scotland costs from ￡100pp including use of snow shoes and poles (01786 445703; cndoscotland.com).
18. Photo-stalk on Skye
Skye is currently splendid: few tourists, no midges, a dusting of snow, the roaring of open fires. Make the most of it on the new Winter Country Escape at Kinloch, a former 17th-century lochside hunting lodge. Spend two days with guide Skye Ghillie, foraging and photo-stalking red deer, returning to the lodge for cocktails (mixed with foraged finds), whisky-tasting, a traditional roast and a five-course supper.
Where to stay: Standard stays at Kinloch are also available (B&B doubles from ￡120; telegraph.co.uk/tt-kinloch-lodge-hotel).
A two-night Winter Country Escape at Kinloch Lodge costs from ￡1,100pp including accommodation, meals and activities (until Feb 15; 01471 833333; kinloch-lodge.co.uk).
19. Ski in Scotland
Scotland might not be able to out-do the Alps, but the country has a respectable 140 pistes across its five ski resorts – Glencoe, Cairngorm, Glenshee, The Lecht and Nevis Range – plus a range of scenic backcountry routes. For the first time, this year Glencoe is offering guaranteed season dates (Dec 1-May 6), thanks to the installation of a new TechnoAlpin snow factory.
Where to stay: Glencoe House is a picturesquely set Highlands mansion (B&B doubles from ￡320; telegraph.co.uk/tt-glencoe-house-hotel).
One-day Glencoe lift passes from ￡18/25 child/adult; two-hour ski/snowboard group lessons from ￡20/25 child/adult (01855 851226; glencoemountain.co.uk).
20. Boom board in Derry-Londonderry
When the waves weren’t rolling, Hawaii’s surfers turned to longboards – a more stable sort-of skateboard. If you think it’s too cold to surf off Northern Ireland right now, do similarly, and try Derry-Londonderry’s new guided longboard tour. Suitable for all, the tours are a slow slide around the smooth, historic streets, finishing at the Walled City Brewery to sample a few ales.
Where to stay: Bishop’s Gate Hotel is a friendly and elegant option in Derry-Londonderry (doubles from ￡120 room only; telegraph.co.uk/tt-bishops-gate-hotel).
A two-hour Boom Board Tour with Far and Wild costs from ￡40pp, including equipment (07775 911198; farandwild.org).
21. And walk everywhere
Whatever your age, ability, location or social situation, the Ramblers Festival of Winter Walks will have a route to suit. Designed to get everyone out exploring over the festive period, which can be lonely for many, it encompasses a range of free group walks – from family-friendly to challenging tramps. Search Ramblers’ database, tagging the festival theme. How about the nine-mile Post Christmas Workout Walk (Dec 28, Chilterns), to burn off the mince pies?
Where to stay: The Mash Inn is a kitchen-centric Chilterns gastropub (B&B doubles from ￡100; telegraph.co.uk/tt-the-mash-inn-hotel).
The festival runs Dec 21- Jan 6 (020 3961 3300; ramblers.org.uk).