25 of the most remarkable ways to see Turkey
As travellers start to flock back to Turkey, Terry Richardson considers the best ways to explore this vast and varied country.
Getting to grips with Turkey’s culture
1. Low-cost highlights
There’s so much to see in Turkey, from the glorious beaches of the Turquoise Coast to the fairy chimneys of the geological wonderland that is Cappadocia, and from the Roman streets of ancient Ephesus to the Whirling Dervishes of Konya. Cleverly using a mixture of Turkey’s excellent intercity coach network and private minibuses, Intrepid does a great, small-group “Best of” introduction.
The 15-day Best of Turkey tour starts at ￡985, including accommodation, land transport and an overnight cruise, some meals and a few guided tours. Flights excluded. Departures April-October. Intrepid (0808 274 5111; intrepidtravel.com).
2. A long weekend in Istanbul
Vibrant Istanbul really is Turkey’s cultural capital. A four-night stay will allow you to see the Ottoman and Byzantine highlights, including the centrally located Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia, and still give time to cross the Golden Horn for a little contemporary art, or take a ferry to Asia. The tram, metro and ferry are cheap and easy to use.
Turkish Airlines (thy.com), Pegasus (flypgs.com) and British Airways (britishairways.com) fly from London to Istanbul year-round. Most return flights cost a little over ￡200. The lovely boutique Ibrahim Pasha (ibrahimpasha.com) in the Old City starts from ￡127 per night.
3. Archaeological adventure in Anatolia
Archaeologists and historians would argue that Anatolia (Asian Turkey) is as rich in ancient sites and as steeped in history as Egypt, Italy, Greece or Mesopotamia. Head over the Pontic Alps from the Black Sea, passing biblical Mount Ararat to high-altitude Lake Van in search of the mysterious Urartians, early-Christian Armenians and cultured early Turks. Breathtaking highland landscapes and little-known sites guaranteed.
The 11-day North-East Turkey tour costs ￡2,999 including flights, guide-lecturer and tour manager, transfers, coach, accommodation, meals and site entries. Departs Sept 18. (Andante Travels (01722 713800; andantetravels.com).
4. Curated Istanbul
See this city through the eyes of experts by signing up for daily tours. See how traditional jewellery is made in the Grand Bazaar, follow a foodie through colourful markets on both sides of the Bosporus, or take pictures of the famous felines and street art with a local photographer. For a more traditional day, explore the Ottoman and Byzantine buildings with an Istanbul university professor.
Istanbul Tour Studio (0009 212 243 0521; istanbultourstudio.com) run all the above, as well as many more daily tours.
5. In search of the Ottomans
A significant proportion of the wealth the Ottoman Empire accrued was spent on wonderful buildings in the three cities that served successively as its capital – Bursa, Edirne and Istanbul. This tour visits many of them and throws in Byzantine Christian monuments too, as well as enigmatic Troy and melancholy Gallipoli.
The 11-day Ottoman Turkey tour costs ￡2,195 including flights, guide lecturer, accommodation, transport, meals and site entries. Departs June 2. Ace Cultural Tours (01223 841055; aceculturaltours.co.uk).
By, on – and under – the sea
6. On the beach
British archaeologist Charles Fellows introduced cricket to Patara in the Victorian era, but few visiting Britons today bother to play the gentleman’s game on Turkey’s longest and, to my mind, most beautiful beach. They are too busy sunbathing, paddling in the shallows and generally relaxing on this totally unspoilt ribbon of sand backed by dunes and substantial Roman ruins (the latter, and nesting turtles, help explain the blissful lack of development here).
Patara Viewpoint (0090 242 843 5184; pataraviewpoint.com; closed December-February) is set in the village inland from the beach. Double room ￡300 for seven nights. Regular shuttles run to the beach, which has a café and sun loungers.
7. Cruising the Turquoise Coast
A cruise on a gulet (traditional wooden sailing boat) along Turkey’s beautiful south-western coast is about as relaxing as a holiday can get. You seem to spend most of your time eating, drinking, reading or casually keeping an eye out for a passing turtle as the boat cruises the coastline, or swimming in the clear turquoise waters when it anchors. Occasional trips ashore – to a watering hole or atmospheric ruin – complete the gulet experience.
A seven-day cabin charter Bodrum-Gokova-Bodrum with Gulet Escapes costs from ￡735 per person, inclusive of all meals and local drinks. Flights extra. Departures late April to end of October. Gulet Escapes (020 8354 4818; guletescapes.com).
8. Deeper and down
Clinging limpet-like to the dramatic cliffs of Lycia, the small, attractive resort of Kas is Turkey’s adventure capital. It’s also home to the best diving in Turkey, with visibility up to 100ft, all manner of colourful fish, and undersea caves and canyons. It’s very easy to sign-up to a Padi Open Water course here, or do a series of day dives if you’re experienced and qualified. In fact you can sign up to almost anything thrilling, from canyoning to paragliding and beyond, if you are so minded.
Bougainville Diving offers the five-day Padi course from ￡263, and can arrange accommodation. Flights, accommodation, meals, etc, all extra. Bougainville (0090 242 836 3737; bougainville-turkey.com).
9. Belek’s all-inclusive cocoon
Just a half-hour drive east of Antalya and its international airport, Belek is the all-inclusive “capital” of Turkey. Fortunately, the hotels lining the long, sandy beach here are top-quality establishments, well landscaped, relatively low rise and generally discreet. And if you do wish to escape the all-inclusive cocoon, there’s a wealth of Roman ruins to explore nearby, a beautiful national park with white-water rafting, and historic Antalya.
Jet2 offers seven-day, all-inclusive stays at the Gloria Serenity Hotel from ￡1,135 per person, including flights. The hotel has eight restaurants, several bars, kids’ clubs, an aqua park and pool, a private beach and access to a sister hotel’s golf courses. Jet2 (0800 408 0778; jet2holidays.com).
10. Flying the waves
That crazy but utterly exhilarating sport of kitesurfing – you balance on a kind of surfboard while holding on to a fiendishly tricky-to-control kite-contraption in the hope that you’ll soon be hurtling elegantly across the waves – is popular on Turkey’s Aegean Coast. The pretty, old Greek village of Alacati was the sport’s original home in Turkey, though it has spread in recent years.
British-run Kitesurfing offers an eight-hour beginners’ course (two people) for ￡202 per person in Alacati, and also arranges courses in Akyaka near Marmaris. Accommodation can be arranged. Kitesurfing (0090 530 721 6567; kite-turkey.com).
Outdoor adventure
11. Day walks in Cappadocia
The eroded volcanic landscape of Cappadocia in Central Anatolia, all mesas, buttes, gorges and bizarre rock pinnacles known as “fairy chimneys”, is best explored on foot. Cappadocia-based Middle Earth Travel offers a series of day walks (four to six-hour duration) from a base in the captivating village of Goreme, which includes the rock-cut churches of the Ihlara Valley, traditional villages such as Gomede and aptly named Pigeon Valley.
The eight-day Cappadocia Tour costs ￡580 and has three departures from March to April and another in September. Included are accommodation, transfers, transport, meals and a guide. Flights excluded. Middle Earth Travel (0090 384 271 2559; middleearthtravel.com).
12. Across the Taurus on horseback
The limestone peaks of the Taurus range separate Central Anatolia’s steppes from the Mediterranean. Densely pine, cedar and chestnut-wooded in places, open grassland in others, dotted with remote villages linked by ancient trails, this is a truly unspoilt and undeveloped part of Turkey. Far and Ride offers a superb expedition for confident intermediate and advanced riders, from glittering Lake Beysehir to the Koprulu Canyon National Park.
The eight-day Taurus ride costs ￡1,329 including mount, accommodation (mostly camping), meals and expert guide. Flights excluded. Two departures in late October and early November. Far and Ride (01462 701110; farandride.com).
13. Sail and cycle combo
It’s always difficult to decide how best to explore Turkey’s beautiful region of Lycia, all rocky coves, secluded beaches, towering peaks, wooded valleys and mysterious ancient ruins. Utracks has come up with a solution that enables you to try two of the best methods – by bike and by gulet. A morning cruise and swim followed by an afternoon of two-wheeled exploration (average rides cover 20 miles/32km or so) is a winning combination.
The seven-day Cycle & Sail tour starts from ￡1,230, including accommodation, transport, meals except lunches, 21-speed bike (bring your own helmet). Flights excluded. Departures April to October. Utracks (0800 074 4135; utracks.com).
14. Trekking in Lycia
The Lycian Way long-distance trail is spectacular, nowhere more so than at its start-point above Olu Deniz. Ahead lies a truly spectacular mix of vertiginous paths, descents to hidden coves, dramatic headlands (the Seven Capes) and, at Patara, Roman ruins and Turkey’s longest beach. Explore all this and more in a suitably sympathetic manner on Responsible Travel’s eight-day Along the Lycian Way tour.
From ￡695, including guide, accommodation, most meals and transfers. Flights excluded. Responsible Travel (01273 823700; responsibletravel.com).
15. On your bike in Cappadocia
For some head-down, hang-on-to-your-handlebars exhilaration in some of the most magnificent scenery on earth, head to Cappadocia’s unique, Unesco-listed volcanic landscape for a mountain biking adventure. Hurtle down steep, narrow descents into “fairy chimney” valleys, slalom through fruit groves and timeless villages – and enjoy a post-ride beer in a laid-back hostelry of your choice.
The Cappadocia Singletrack tour costs ￡925 plus ￡130 cycle hire (or bring your own). Included are two expert guides, seven nights’ accommodation, some meals, support vehicle and airport transfers. Departures in May, September and October. Flights excluded. Cycle Active (01768 840400; cycleactive.com).
Family fun
16. Aquatic thrills and spills
The northern Aegean waterfront Phokaia Beach Resort, with its sunset views, comfortable interconnecting rooms and great food, is the ideal venue for one of Turkey’s premier water sports centres. Perfect your windsurfing or sailing technique with well-qualified instructors while the various kids’ clubs take care of the offspring.
A seven-day package costs from ￡958; peak weeks are much more expensive. Included are flights, most meals, assorted water sports tuition, equipment use and childcare clubs for two to 17-year-olds. Departures between May and October. Mark Warner (033 3305 7214; markwarner.co.uk).
17. Multi-activity family frolics
The pretty resort of Kas, on the unspoilt Lycian coast in south-west Turkey, is just perfect for family activity holidays. Explore’s Family Legends of Lycia tour is based in a relaxed hotel in central Kas, with activities including a boat ride with swimming and snorkelling, sea kayaking over sunken ruins in Kekova, canoeing down the Xanthous river and a walk in the Lycian hills.
The tour starts from ￡399, excluding flights, or ￡885 including flights, transfers, some meals and all activities. Departures May to October. Explore (01252 883747; explore.co.uk).
18. Eco-friendly, family-friendly house stay
Three luxury villas in a supremely private and beautiful setting overlooking the Med offering hotel services such as gourmet meals and spa treatments – what’s not to like? Booked individually or as a trio (with accommodation for 22 people in total) these newly built, stylish eco houses even have their own cove complete with kayaks and paddleboards.
A week-long May stay in a Gokce Gemile house is ￡1,417 per person based on six sharing, including a free transfer from Dalaman airport, a skippered day at sea, a week’s car hire and evening chauffeur service. Open year-round. Fairlight and Jones (020 3875 0351; fairlightjones.com).
19. From archery to Wake-boarding
Located on the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Antalya, backed by dramatic peaks yet only an hour’s transfer from Antalya airport, the Club Med Palmiye knows how to keep the punters occupied. It has sailing, windsurfing, wake-boarding, tennis and archery for most ages and ability levels, plus circus shows and other evening fun. All with a little Gallic flair, of course.
An all-inclusive (meals, drinks, most water and land-based sports tuition/equipment use) family activity holiday at Palmiye costs from ￡958 low season, to ￡1,501 peak, excluding flights. Departures April-October 2019. Club Med (020 3912 975; clubmed.co.uk).
20. Chill-out in C?ral?
For a relaxed family holiday It’s hard to beat Cirali, an hour west of the gateway airport of Antalya. Building regulations ensure none of the many pensions here pokes its roof above the citrus groves, there’s a two-mile-long turtle-nesting beach book-ended by rocky spurs, fabulous sea views in one direction and towering peaks in the other. A string of mellow beachfront eateries, a shop or two and the odd place to hire a car or bike complete the picture.
Hotel Odile has four-bed family rooms for ￡158 per day. Set around a large leisure pool and a kids’ pool. Odile Hotel (0090 242 825 7163; hotelodile.com).
Specialist stuff
21. Wellness, luxury style
There are plenty of down-to-earth spas in Turkey, but Six Senses Kaplankaya takes spa therapies and wellness to whole new levels of sophistication. A fraction over 50 miles (80km) from bustling Bodrum, this 20 treatment-room centre is the place to come for the latest treatments in the most luxurious surroundings, with yoga, cleanse and detox and weight-loss programmes just some of the care packages on offer. The accommodation is stunning, too, with a hotel and villas set in a lush landscaped retreat of sheltered coves and woodland.
Healing Holidays offers five-day yoga programmes from ￡1,784 based on double occupancy. Meals and group workshops included; flights excluded. Departures mid-April to November. Healing Holidays (020 7843 3597; healingholidays.co.uk).
22. Back to nature in Pontic Alps
Turkey’s fascinating eastern Black Sea coast is backed by a splendid, verdant range of snow-capped peaks known as the Pontic Alps. Popular with trekkers, it’s also home to a fantastic variety of flowers, shrubs, trees, birds, butterflies and other flora and fauna. It’s heaven for anyone with an interest in plants, as so many species are endemic, along with unusual birds such as the Caspian snowcock. To make the most of this remote area, a guided tour makes sense.
Greentours (01298 83563; greentours.co.uk) offers a 14-day tour for ￡2,770 including flights, accommodation, meals and transport. Departs July 19.
23. Thermal spas
Turkey is a volcanic land rich in thermal waters. Plenty of resorts of various sizes and quality have sprung up around these valuable resources; the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism lists 17. Arguably the most beautiful and interesting is Termal, set in pleasant pine-forested hills an hour’s ferry ride south of Istanbul. Used in Roman times, it was revived in the Eighties but a few of its hotels reflect the pomp of its heyday.
Limak Thermal (0090 226 675 7800; limakhotels.com) has 48 double rooms from ￡119, each with a thermal spring-fed Jacuzzi. It has been restored to its 1929 origins, and Turkey’s founder, Ataturk, was a regular visitor.
24. A foodie cruise
What better way to get grips with the delights and subtleties of Turkish cooking than aboard a gulet sailing the gorgeously indented coastline of Lycia in search of romantically set ancient ruins? The personable Serdar, archaeologist and foodie guide of Gastronomic Cruise, gets guests helping the ship’s cook to rustle up meals, takes them into the kitchens of rustic restaurants ashore and involves them in preparing traditional village dishes on an archaeological site.
The tour costs ￡2,395 and runs June 1-8. Guide, all meals, site entries included; flights excluded. Peter Sommer Travels (01600 888220; petersommer.com).
25. Yoga in Peace Valley
Huzur Vadisi, Turkey’s longest-established yoga retreat, is set in a pretty mountain valley surrounded by pine forest, olive and fig orchards. Located near Gocek in Lycia, it has been rated by Condé Nast as one of the best yoga retreats in the world. Accommodation is in well-presented yurts, and there’s a 28-berth yoga shala for teaching and practice sessions, and a stone-built pool.
Seven days’ accommodation at Huzur Vadisi (huzurvadisi.com) is ￡795 per person. Three meals a day included. Flights and course fees extra. The nearest airport is Dalaman. To join a course, contact the yoga teachers via the retreat’s website.