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3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall 2018

Jessica Iredale
Updated

What do sailors, gypsies and swanky disco divas have in common? Maybe nothing besides Phillip Lim’s pre-fall collection. He deliberately culled from wildly disparate elements for an experimental mash-up that worked out well for all style nomads involved, primarily the customer. The intensely layered pilings, for example, a techno wharf jacket over a sweet sailor sweater, poplin shirt and chic natty mushroom pleated slipdress were meant to evoke texture, nostalgia and human touch. “Fashion and technology operate at the speed of light today,” Lim said. “This is kind of my way of slowing things down so you can actually feel things.”

Among the mix were sailor pants, smocked gingham taffeta dresses and slinky slips made of silver chainmail and spongy mushroom pleats. Lim chose many of his references for their humble, folkloric roots, but he brought everything up to date with modernist techno-touched fabrications. The taffeta was paper-thin and light as air; the pleating felt hand-done but not too delicate, and some of the tailored fisherman’s jackets were coated and water-resistant. Styled to the outlandish nomadic nines, it served up a major fashion statement, yet the showroom racks were filled with pieces for the chic, grounded civilian.

Launch Gallery: 3.1 Phillip Lim Pre-Fall 2018

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