8 Korean Beauty Secrets Insiders Know That You Don't
Reviewed by Lily Talakoub, MD, FAAD
When beauty editors are on the lookout for new up-and-coming trends, we turn to Korea. BB creams, sheet masks, and cushion compacts are all courtesy of, you guessed it, Korea. The reason we hold Koreans in such high regard when it comes to beauty is that they have skin that resembles art: flawless and dreamy.
Koreans are big fans of the no-makeup makeup look, so we figured we would try to uncover the skincare and makeup secrets that they rely on for that sheeny glow, or as they call it, mul-gwang. To get the inside scoop, we called on a dermatologist and three beauty bloggers who know more about Korean beauty than most.
Meet the Experts
Brendan Camp, MD, is a double board-certified dermatologist specializing in dermatology and dermatopathology at MDCS Dermatology.
Charlotte Cho is the founder of the beauty website Soko Glam.
Sheryll Donerson is a Byrdie contributor who spent two years living in South Korea. She is also the founder of the blog The Wanderlust Project.
Morgan Stewart is a Korean-American and founder of the website and vlog The Beauty Breakdown.
Keep scrolling for a Korean guide to getting the best skin of your life.
1. Use Pimple Patches for Blemishes
“Korean women are more susceptible to pigmentation, so they take extra care to protect their skin from harmful UVA/UVB rays. They wouldn’t leave the house without applying sunscreen,” says Charlotte Cho, founder of Soko Glam, a website that sells the best of Western and Korean beauty products, and author of The Little Book of Skin Care ($23). “They’re careful to avoid direct sunlight by using hats, umbrellas, and gloves whenever necessary!”
When it comes to skincare, Cho says Korean women use “natural skin brighteners such as rice extracts, vitamin C, and licorice, as well as exfoliators. For stubborn brown spots, they will visit the dermatologist to lighten the brown spots using lasers.” She recommends Klaris Freshly Juiced Vitamin C Serum ($23), which is also perfect for sensitive skin types.
As for blemishes, U.S.-born Sheryll Donerson, who spent two years living in South Korea and is the founder of the blog The Wanderlust Project, tells Byrdie, “When I taught at a middle school in Korea, all my girls would wear these pimple patches on their skin to help with their spots. They are absolutely genius! I only wear them at night, but if you’re looking for a way to get rid of a blemish fast, I swear by them. I love the COSRX Acne Pimple Master Patch ($6)."
2. Do Deep Cleanses Before Applying Makeup
Dermatologist Dr. Brendan Camp says that double cleansing is a big part of Korean skincare. "It's a two-step process that involves first washing your face with an oil-based cleanser, which helps emulsify makeup, oil, and residue from skincare products to facilitate their removal," he says. "The second step involves using a water-based cleanser to remove additional impurities from the skin, like sweat."
For Cho, cleansing is the cornerstone of a better-than-great complexion. “Cleansing is important because it’s the excess oil, dirt, and bacteria on your skin that can lead to premature aging, dark spots, and breakouts,” she says. “It’s incredibly important to be proactive and keep your skin clean. Without a clean base, makeup will also not look good!”
Cho triple-cleanses daily and she shared her step-by-step guide with us.
First cleanse: Use a cleansing tissue to gently remove stubborn impurities on your skin, paying close attention to the sensitive eye area and neck.
Second cleanse: Massage an oil cleanser into your skin to remove oil-based impurities. Rinse.
Third Cleanse: On a wet face, add a cleansing foam to remove water-based impurities. Rinse and pat dry.
Donerson reveals that powder cleansers are a big trend in Korea. “I love them! They are great to travel with or throw in your gym bag, as you don’t have to worry about it spilling everywhere or any liquid restrictions at the airport.”
3. Use Sheet Masks for Improved Hydration
"The occlusive properties of a sheet mask traps moisture in the skin, which can help skin stay hydrated and improve the appearance of fine lines," says Camp.
“[Mul-gwang] is all about hydration! Using mists, sheet masks, and layering your moisturizer will help you achieve that radiant, dewy, glow," adds Cho. “There are also several eye creams and primers infused with pearl extracts that will diffuse imperfections and catch the light to get your skin looking luminous which definitely helps.”
4. Mix Face Oil in with Your Foundation
Morgan Stewart, a Korean-American and founder of the website and vlog The Beauty Breakdown, says, “If you have dry skin, try mixing a face oil or serum in with your foundation.” Not only will this help the application glide on more smoothly, but you'll also get a luminous glow upon application.
5. Invest in a More Extensive Skincare Routine
“I know it’s intimidating and can seem a bit pricey, but it’s worth the investment in both time and money! Layering is the biggest game-changer in my opinion,” says Stewart. “Most people just stick to a face wash and moisturizer. However, never overlook the importance of steps like exfoliating, toning, essence, and sleeping packs!” Not sure how to layer? Watch Stewart’s daily skincare routine, here.
In Korean skincare, toner (similar to beauty water) is used after cleansing to balance the skin's pH level. "Toner can be used to remove excess oils and prepare skin for the application of additional products," says Camp. "A serum can then be applied to effectively deliver a high concentration of ingredients, such as a moisturizer or antioxidant. After using a moisturizer, sunscreen is applied last."
6. Tap Your Skin, Don't Rub It
“I’m a big fan of gently tapping, rather than rubbing my skincare in. Not only is it more gentle, it feels like a ritual of sorts. I also recommend putting your sheet masks into the fridge for an extra refreshing treat at night!” suggests Donerson. Lightweight, water-like skin products such as essences can be tapped into the skin, as well as the more familiar serums and moisturizers. Try Son & Park Beauty Water Mist ($30) for a skin refresh.
7. Use a Product With Snail Mucin
For the uninitiated, mucin is the slime excreted by snails when they are stressed (so not one for vegans).
"Snail mucin is a popular product in Korean skincare because it contains ingredients that improve skin hydration and plumping, such as hyaluronic acid, antioxidants, and zinc," says Camp.
“If I had to choose a Korean product, it would be the COSRX Advanced Snail 96 Mucin Power Essence ($14),” says Donerson. “It’s literally 96 percent snail mucin, and it does an amazing job of getting rid of any skin irritation, while being extremely hydrating. It makes my skin glow like no other.”
8. Go Lightweight for Dewy Skin
“The Korean dewy skin look is one of my favorite Korean trends,” Donerson says. “Dewy skin is youthful and more realistic.”
To achieve the Korean dewy glow, Cho suggests starting with a radiance-boosting primer like IPKN Flash Cream Radiant Primer ($24).
To keep things dewy, Donerson recommends a BB cream, BB cushion (we like Missha Signature Essence Cushion, $11) or any lightweight foundation. The key is to use something lightweight, so your skin still looks natural.
Makeup is a great way to enhance gwang, especially if you have oily skin that can’t handle too much skincare. “Add the glow with a light liquid highlight,” Stewart says.
To boost the dewy look even further, Donerson suggests applying a shimmery highlight to eyelids and cheeks. It may not be Korean, but we love the Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick Compact ($53) for adding a highlight to the face.
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Read the original article on Byrdie.