Accessories Brands in Milan Pushed the Envelope in Handbags and Shoes for Spring 2025
MILAN — When it comes to luxury shoes and bags from specialty brands, there’s no place like Milan Fashion Week. As fashion brands turned to wearability, accessories seen last week provided a much-needed injection of newness, with unexpected twists dominating the spring 2025 collections.
Here’s a roundup of some of the key accessories presentations.
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Welcome to the jungle, Gianvito Rossi style. Luscious plants served as the bountiful backdrop for the designer’s spring 2025 “jungle couture” presentation. Nature’s creatures inspired many of the collection’s styles: Butterfly’s wings, in mesh and suede, embellished stiletto sandals and tie-up booties. A lion’s mane served as the inspiration for embellished mules. And a gladiator sandal recalled the coils of the mamba snake. Intricate craftsmanship was also on display: A pair of lace-up stiletto sandals featured 300 two-tone rhinestones, arranged by hand on leather strips.
Italy’s Marche region, where Santoni calls home, again provided a plethora of inspiration. High-heeled sandals were fashioned in golden and multicolor heels, reflecting the vibrancy of the sun and the sea. Santoni’s Double Buckle was highlighted in the Virna sandal, which came high or with a kitten heel. New pointy-toe slingbacks also got the buckle treatment. The brand also served up a tennis-inspired sneaker.
With a design philosophy rooted in nature and mythology, the three sisters behind AGL drew on the imagery of contemporary nymphs. The water lily, a symbol of purity and elegance, was the thread through many of spring’s designs. Delicate leather petals adorned ballet flats and heeled sandals, and the motif was also embroidered on mules and knee-high gladiator sandals.
Serapian staged another arty presentation in its Villa Mozart headquarters, inviting Venetian artist Lorenzo Vitturi to create the setting and replicate his atelier with installations across three rooms. These highlighted the spring 2025 collection, which displayed new iterations of Serapian’s signature Mosaico weaving technique. In addition to new color combination, the brand experimented with handwoven raffia and a Mosaico crochet in raffia and leather, which shed a new, summery light on the Secret bag design, available in different sizes. Another highlight was the Ani shoulder bag, translating the Mosaico effect in a compact and everyday shape in a cherry color.
This year marks a milestone for the brand as it turns 90 — and René Caovilla‘s greatest hits still resonate with consumers. So for spring, the brand revisited and reimagined bestsellers, including the Cleo sandal; the Cinderella series; the Veneziana pump and slingback; the Chandelier sandal, and the Margot sandal.
Playful. Intricate. Hyper. That’s how Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi described the label’s spring ’25 collection. This season, Choi looked back to Y2K, an important period for the brand, and an era now being wholeheartedly embraced by Gen Z. “I really love this idea of girlfriends going out, hanging out, playing hard — I lived it myself,” she said. The mule was the star silhouette this season, while the Drop heel continued to make a statement as a new signature. Spring also heralded the arrival of the Diamond hobo bag, a trapezoid silhouette.
Valextra may be known for its architectural-nodding lean and posh handbags with a graphic bent, but chief executive officer Xavier Rougeaux believes the brand can dazzle also when spotlighting a softer side, which he intends to fold into its legacy. For spring the leather-goods maker introduced the Sublime full-grain calf leather with a buttery hand plied into voluptuous iterations of the Milano tote cabat bag, which also welcomed a new mini size. “After metaphorically spotlighting the facades of Milan buildings by the likes of Piero Portaluppi and other famous architects, we’re now getting into the city’s houses, richer and more opulent,” Rougeaux said. A range of canvas and leather bags, including the geometric Vivi hobo bag and the MyLogo bowling design, were also new additions aimed at diversifying the brand’s offering and appeal.
Coccinelle unveiled its “Rua da Alegria” collection inspired by the colors of the street in Portugal. On this occasion, the brand unveiled the C-Me bag, which in addition to the signature design elements features the C logo and is available in different colors and materials such as canvas, calf leather, and grained leather.
Three decades and counting. Footwear veteran Giuseppe Zanotti — who just opened a new space at Milan’s Rinascente department store — has a lot to celebrate, including a major endorsement from none other than Taylor Swift, who has worn his thigh-high boots to two Kansas City Chiefs games this month. “We’ve been working with her since she was a teenager. I’m very proud,” said the designer. Zanotti is marking 30 years of his namesake label with a special capsule focusing on the iconic Ring sandal. The look has been reinterpreted in a classic flat and new block heel. Details defined the main spring ’25 collection — from delicate metal flowers to glittering crystals to gold dome plates. The signature pointed-toe Intrigo silhouette was updated with hand-woven leather knots, while ballerinas went from day to night.
When Edgardo Osorio needs to recharge, he heads to straight to the sea. The Aquazzura designer crafted his spring ’25 collection during a trip to Mexico. “There are subtle influences, and a lot of workmanship and craftsmanship — macramé, embroidery, beading,” he said. Fish, shells, corals and crabs — handmade by women artisans in Colombia — decorated raffia bags and sandals, while the “Wave” plexi wedge sandal served up seaside glamour. Metallic and stone-like studs gave rope sandals a cool boho edge. Flats got the broderie anglaise treatment.
Campomaggi flaunted its decorative spirit for spring, unveiling a lineup rich in decorations and embellishments that enhanced the femininity of the vegetal-tanned leather bags the brand has become synonymous with. Working with different customers in mind but largely tapping into evening and cocktail accessories, the Diamond lineup included minibags and clutches — one particularly cute was butterfly-shaped — decked in studs, brooch-like pins and crystals, while the Aphrodite family came in textured, country-chic, leather covered in moon- and star-shaped embellishments.
Two very distinct heels made a statement in Pollini‘s Archive collection — the triangular-shaped Island heel, and the Cavaliere boot heel, which debuted in sandals for spring. The driving loafer was reimagined with rope laces — and fringed sandals and loafers made an impact.
In its ongoing homage to its roots and short supply chain, for spring Il Bisonte introduced new handbag families named after city gates in Lucca, Tuscany. The Elisa line offered totes, crossbody and bucket bag designs coming in various sizes and featuring a belt-like, wraparound strap, while the Anna range defined by a soft flap that folds onto the bag’s body included a shoulder and crossbody version. Both were offered in the brand’s signature earthy color palette, as well as a captivating turquoise shade. The leather accessories were complemented by the Classic family of cotton canvas designs with resort vibes inspired by the Caramella foldable bag designer by brand founder Wanny Di Filippo in the early ‘70s.
Rodo, known for its wicker bags, was giving them a new spin for spring, with fresh shapes and natural leather accents. Slingbacks and sandals were embellished with strass and pearls, or topped off with bows and braids made from a mesh of crystals.
A larger-than-life video wall brought summer vibes to the Hogan showroom as the brand unveiled its spring ’25 collection inspired by Italo Disco culture and the nostalgia of the coast. Sneakers and boat shoes were fashioned in tactile suede or with leather-wrapped soles and bags were versatile and beach ready.
Showing in its new Milan digs, Casadei unveiled a Superblade slingback, only available in black or white, to match the ambiance of one of the rooms. The Mini Blade heel — at just 1.5 centimeters — is the newest version of the signature heel. Elsewhere, a bold gladiator kicks things up a notch. And new material stories shined through, like calfskin with color dabbed on by hand, which created the effect of crocodile scales seen through sunlit water. It was used on both thongs and high-heel mules.
The Borsalino spring collection quite literally dazzled, courtesy of a tie-in with jeweler Damiani to mark the latter’s 100th anniversary this year. Three signature designs from the hatmaker were enriched with jewels, including the Nina cloche hat boasting two white gold and diamond pendants dangling like earrings from the two sides of the hat, or the Sophie fedora featuring a rose gold, diamond and Australian pearls necklace from the Mimosa collection serving as a precious lace for the hat itself. For its main line, the brand embarked on a grand tour of Italy, referencing the country’s different destinations, including Florence, which informed the Panama-Quito weaving of the Country and Federico designs.
Geox has long been known for its waterproof Spherica sneaker, which emphasizes breathability. This season, the brand added some new high-tech features and introduced the hands-free Spherica Plus slip-in model. The new technology features external support in the heel area that acts in tandem with a soft inner insert and elasticated lasting. “Our strength lies in having a global vision with continuous ideas and innovations, said Mario Moretti Polegato, founder and chairman of Geox.
“Shades of earth, shades of summer.” That was the theme of Fratelli Rossetti‘s collection, which featured a mix of new and timeless styles. Ballet flats, sandals were fashioned in earthy tones, such as almond, olive and mango. And the Brera loafer continued to reign.
With a stylish new showroom in Milan and a just-released ad campaign that celebrates its dual personas, Paris Texas is kicking off spring ’25 with a bang. During a tour of the new space, founder and creative director Annamaria Brivio reminisced about her trip to the California desert, where she shot with photographer Harley Weir from day to night to capture all the fruits of the landscape — dramatic sunsets, rugged backdrops and Joshua trees, of course. Building on the vibe of fall ’24, the collection featured wedge sandals in a gradient of colors inspired by the skies at dawn. Dramatic lace-up sandals, embossed from crocodile leather in rouge noir, were a fresh addition. Mules inspired by the new showroom were bedazzled with a mirror-effect stiletto heel, while another mule style featured a block plexiglass heel hiding an engraved logo. There were also more flats on offer, including a fringed loafer and raffia ballet flats. And, of course, the brand’s signature boots, worn by Beyoncé and more big names, were a mainstay, and got prime real estate in a museum-like space in the showroom.
Now in her third season, Kate Cate designer Caterina Ravaglia is expanding the brand in the U.S. and Middle East, and growing her collection, too. “At the beginning, I had this juxtaposition where it was either sparkling or big chunky boots,” said the designer, who branched out by adding her beloved animal prints to low-heeled mule sandals and sneaker ballerinas made with recycled rubber soles. A crab-shaped sandal featured buckles from the brand’s popular belts. But the designer is still happiest in her bold boots. “I was watching the Diane von Furstenberg documentary and she talked about going to Studio 54 in zebra cowboy boots after she put her children to bed,” Ravaglia said. “Now I really want to go to the club in my zebra cowboy boots.”
At their first creative effort as Borbonese’s newly installed creative directors, Salar Bicheranloo and Francesca Monaco have started to inject fresh new ideas into the storied brand, charting their vision of softer, rounder, even more sensual accessories. The spring collection was unveiled at the 16th floor of the famous Milanese skyscraper Torre Velasca, its lean and architectural interiors somewhat emphasizing the voluptuous quality of new hero bags, many of them crafted according to the retournè technique, such as the L’éclair pleated shoulder bag and the Bloom family of handbags with folded sides. Catering to more fashion savvy clients, the new “All – Round” line repurposed the brand’s signature screw-shaped hardware into a cutout leather frame for a cute satchel style containing a soft OP-patterned pouch.
Le Silla is feting its 30th anniversary with a special edition of its signature Petalo pump. With a metallic finish, the style, called Anthea, drew inspiration from Surrealist art. For spring ’25, the brand explored nature, with slingbacks and sandals taking center stage. Transparency was also a key theme, as seen on slingbacks, mules, boots and more.
Tapping into the rich culture of Japan, Flower Mountain’s limited-edition capsule of sneakers and sandals featured traditional Nishijin-ori, the intricate fabrics that are used to make kimonos. (They date all the way back to the sixth century.) The collection consisted of four different patterns made of colorful silk threads and intricate weaves, with symbols like cherry blossoms and butterflies.
MCM expanded its horizons this season. After focusing on space travel, it decided this time to plumb the ocean depths and explore a whole underwater universe. Turtles and palm trees adorned bags and totes, while cute charms in the shape of clownfish or octopuses dangled from bags.
The collection was full of terrific shapes, including leather bags that resembled fishnets, due to the magic of laser cutting. Other bags and blazers were made in neoprene, adding to the collection’s maritime feel.
The Tokyo James collection was filled with beading — beads covered dresses and trousers and came as patchwork on shorts, and their gentle tinkling could be heard throughout the runway show. The best part of the collection, though, were the beaded Uggs. Although it was difficult to see, creative director Iniye Tokyo James said that some beads were missing — a deliberate part of the design. The collection, he said, was all about imperfection, “just like life.”
Get ready for Valentine’s Day with Mach & Mach‘s Puffy Heart mules, sandals, and mary janes adorned with heart charms in lacquered red and silver. Mesh ballet flats got a heavy dose of sparkle with oversized diamond-like brooches.
To mark its 160th anniversary, Franzi introduced the new Virginia day bag in its range. Inspired by Virginia Oldoini, a key political figure of the past, the design came with an essential and practical shape featuring expandable tabs for extra storage, inside pockets and a removable leather clutch. Crafted from the new soft Cuoio Franzi leather, the bag was embellished with a pointed gold clasp and available in shades including dark chocolate, camel, cinnamon, moss green and light blue.
The Italian heritage brand Testoni, which first debuted its women’s collection 60 years ago, aimed for a comeback with a new design direction unveiled at Milan Fashion Week and a renewed push in Europe. Each bag — which was crafted using Testoni’s special techniques developed in its Bologna atelier — has a personal story behind it.
For the next chapter of its “Together by Themoirè” series — which supports and empowers artisans in vulnerable communities around the world — the brand went to Gulu, Uganda, known for its strong colors and strong community spirit. The fashion week capsule was crafted by the women of the Wawoko Kacel atelier.
Reflecting Premiata’s focus on sustainability, sneakers were crafted in recycled materials and featured lightweight soles. Leopard print added an eye-catching touch to the kicks, while pony stood out as the key material used across dressier styles.
Aera cofounder and chief executive officer Tina Bhojwani toasted her spring ’25 sustainably minded collection at the intimate Rumore cocktail bar at Portrait Milano — where she showed summer slides, flats and mid heels. The brand introduced some innovative new materials designed to make an impact, including sustainable grosgrain and regenerated nylon yarn.
At Mario Valentino, inspired by the landscapes of the Amalfi coast, strappy sandals reigned, and geometric shapes and transparencies were key. Shells and 3D flowers helped bring the beachy theme to the forefront.
The Dua, Gianni Chiarini‘s classic bag, again set the tone for the mood of the overall collection, designed for a woman on the go. This season, the bag was crafted from soft perforated suede leather. The Aurora bag got an update in a new raffia version.
Building on its expertise with exotic leather, Colombo’s spring range offered more extravagant iterations on its signature top-handle bags and clutches. A flower-toned color palette of bougainvillea pink, cornflower blue and sunflower yellow added a contemporary and summery twist to signature styles crafted from shiny crocodile polished using an agate stone. A new range of canvas designs with colorful leather accents inspired by the Italian Riviera made for the more accessible and casual family in the lineup.
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