Acne Studios RTW Spring 2018

Jessica Iredale

Updated Sat, September 30, 2017 at 7:01 PM UTC

As Jonny Johansson sees it, Acne is at least one-step removed from “fashion.” “I see us as sort of the moon circling around the fashion scene,” he said after his spring show, which was fueled by his admiration of fashion outsiders, for example, the kids he encounters when he surfs. “They don’t really care about fashion in the same way I do and I really like that energy of how they put things together.”

Never mind that appropriating the style or lack thereof of fashion civilians is a classic designer artifice that has fueled men’s wear trends, such as dad-core, as well as an entire brand like Vetements. Johansson came up with “thrift store on acid” chic for spring and ran with it for some trippy bad taste fun. A lime green oversized satin blazer with notched lapels and matching pants was undiluted Leisure Suit Larry. Exaggerated Hawaiian-print shirts in jersey starched to look like plastic worn with slick tan pants looked like they had come from the set of “Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas” and were coated in shiny stuff. A white satin suit worn over a black pointed-collar shirt was a waistcoat short of Tony Manero territory. Funny but not feminine, those looks put the laide in jolie laide, though you could see why the insidery fashion outsiders would go for them.

More pretty, less ugly and still dosed with acidic irony were sheer oversized bowling shirts, rugged embroidered leather men’s work shirts, and a range of great Seventies-style jackets that looked like leather, though who knows what the treatment was. One was an oversized blazer that looked oil-stained in berry and black; another was a cropped, button-up faded yellow style with a lavender collar and cuffs. Acne’s customers who don’t want to go gonzo can try the bias-cut slips and crocheted maxidresses that fell into a hem of thick fringe.

Launch Gallery: Acné Studios RTW Spring 2018

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Acne Studios RTW Spring 2018

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