Am I taking a chance by going with an aftermarket part? | Car Doctor
Q: I need to replace the passenger-side headlight assembly for a 2013 Lexus IS due to a minor collision. I do not want to put in an insurance claim.
An aftermarket assembly is $1,000 cheaper than the part from the dealership. Am I taking a chance by going with the aftermarket part, or is it better to stick with the OEM part?
A: If the part is Certified Automotive Parts Association (CAPA) certified, and you can save $1,000 over the factory part, that is the part I would use. Aftermarket parts quality can vary, but being CAPA certified means that part is certified as an original equipment replacement part.
Tire-balancing problem with Subaru Forester
Q: Am the second owner of a 2019 Subaru Forester with 71,000 miles on it. Since buying it, I have been experiencing what I believe to be a tire balance issue. This occurs at about 70 to 80 miles per hour. Yes, I know the speed limit is 65, but everyone drives faster. Above and below that speed all is normal.
I have had all tires high-speed balanced, but the same issue remains. I was reading online about Hunter's Road Force Balance machine. I was impressed by the internet demonstration of that particular tire balance machine. However, I am having trouble finding a tire shop that has the Hunter's tire balance machine. I suspect it would be more expensive to tire balance with this machine, but I would go the extra expense.
A: The Hunter Road Force tire balancer has been around for many years now and is considered by many the “gold-standard” of tire balancers. It is a common machine in better tire store, and in many cases required equipment in some new car dealerships. As good as it is, the person using it can make all the difference.
All tires and wheels have high and low spots, and, in some cases, you need to match the low spot of the tire with the high spot in the wheel to get the best (most round) combination.
I have also seen flat tire repair products – and even water – that get into a tire that can cause a vibration.
Additionally, you need to make sure the wheels and hubs are free of any rust/corrosion, which could cause even a perfectly balanced tire to vibrate.
Audi keeps showing warning light on turn signal and brake light
Q: I have owned since new a 2013 Audi A6 that now has 46,500 miles on it. Several months ago, a dashboard warning light began appearing intermittently stating that there is right turn signal, brake light right rear failure. At first, I suspected it was just the bulb. It was replaced to no avail.
I then took it to my Audi dealer, who replaced the right rear tail light assembly. It worked fine for three to four weeks, then the same icon reappeared.
At all times, the brake lights and turn signals were all functioning correctly, but the dashboard blinker flashed much faster than normal. Also, after turning the car off and letting it sit for several hours, once the car was restarted, everything functioned normally. Then, after driving for 15 to 30 minutes, the warning light reappeared. This also seems to be temperature related: if the car was sitting in the hot sun, or if the ambient temperature is greater than 60 degrees, the warning light appears more quickly.
A: It looks like you need to return to the dealer that performed the work. The fault is an issue with a transistor in the lamp assembly.
Audi did issue a technical service bulletin about the lights. In some cases, all four turn signal assemblies need replacement. Perhaps, the dealer did not use the updated part, or all the assemblies need replacement.
Did water pump and alternator really fail at same time on low-mileage Camry?
Q: I have a 2016 Toyota Camry SE with 28,000 miles that was my grandmother’s car. A vibrating noise developed in the alternator area. My mechanic said he had to remove the belt to figure out whether it was the alternator, water pump or some other problem. He called me and said the water pump was the problem.
When I went to pick up the car, my mechanic said that the alternator and pulley were also bad and had to be replaced. Our family is “teamToyota,” but I had reservations about his conclusion that both went bad with such low mileage and at the same time. The car is fine now, but I was wondering what your thoughts are on this issue.
A: I am surprised anything is wrong with a Toyota with only 28,000 miles on it, but even the best cars are a sum of their parts.
Your mechanics’ diagnostic procedure was correct. Removing the drive belt to eliminate the part that is causing the vibration makes sense. Technicians will also use a “mechanics” stethoscope to pinpoint vibrations and noises.
Was the water pump really OK and the alternator was really the issue? Without seeing the old parts, it is anyone’s guess as to what was wrong. There are times when you need to trust your mechanic to do the right thing. This may be one of those times.
John Paul is the AAA Northeast Car Doctor. He has more than 40 years of experience in the automobile industry and is an ASE-Certified Master Technician. Write to John Paul, The Car Doctor, at 110 Royal Little Drive, Providence, RI 02904. Or email [email protected] and put “Car Doctor” in the subject field. Follow him on Twitter @johnfpaul or on Facebook.
This article originally appeared on The Providence Journal: Am I taking a chance by going with an aftermarket part? | Car Doctor
