American Sparkling Wine Is Alive And Well In The Pacific Northwest

Over the last decade there's been a growing prowess and pride in sparkling wine production in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. A region touted as cool climate, focused on Chardonnay & Pinot Noir, and about an hour drive from Portland. Though as the globe warms and pioneers of “the next big region” race to buy up land, it’s becoming more and more clear that Oregon is the place to produce world class sparkling wine, right under our noses, right here in the USA. Gran Moraine, led by winemaker Shane Moore, is showing us just how luminescent the effervescence can be.

Jackson Family Wines set their sights on Oregon in the early 2010s. Since their arrival in 2012, they have acquired multiple vineyards with some of the most coveted land in the Willamette Valley. Today they own and operate the Oregon brands: Penner Ash, WillaKenzie Estate, Zena Crown, and Gran Moraine. JFW deserves credit. A California based company making moves in Oregon could ruffle feathers, and feel unwelcome by their neighbors. However, the mandate was to hire local, preserve what Oregon has accomplished, and continue carrying out the vision with respect to the land. Crisis averted! More than 10 years later they are an integral part of the fabric of Oregon's bustling wine industry.

Oregon's wine history begins with settlers' arrival via the Oregon Trail in the middle 19th Century. From there began a precedent of growing Zinfandel, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon, Riesling, as well as many other fruits that wine and brandy were made from. Forest Grove winemaker Ernest Reuter first put Oregon wine on the map when he won a silver medal for his Riesling at the 1904 St. Louis World’s Fair. Shortly after, the state approved Prohibition 4 years before the 18th Amendment went into effect nationally.

In 1961, Richard Sommer ushered in Oregon’s modern era of wine growing, when his HillCrest Vineyard was established in the Umpqua Valley, planting the first Chardonnay of significance. HillCrest holds bonded winery certificate #42, and is Oregon’s oldest estate winery. Then in 1965, David Lett planted Pinot Noir cuttings near Corvallis, making them the first to take root in the Willamette Valley. David and his wife Diana spent their honeymoon transporting the young Pinot vines The Eyrie Vineyards location in the Dundee Hills. The stage was set for the next 60 years of experimentation, study, and growth.

Both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir play significant roles in the sparkling wines produced by Gran Moraine. The inaugural release of Blanc de Blancs was the 2014 vintage, made from 100% Chardonnay. The prestigious cuvée marked its territory, in my opinion, as one of the greatest American sparkling wines to be created. Right out of the gates. Made with zero malolactic fermentation, 66% was barrel fermented and 34% was fermented in stainless steel. The next step, 5 years and 9 months "en tirage" (the period of time in which bottled sparkling wine is rested in contact with lees, generated during secondary fermentation,) is where patience is tested. The outcome, though, is where conception meets brilliant reality. Today, 2015 is the current vintage of Blanc de Blancs, and it's sourced from three treasured blocks of Chardonnay on the estate vineyard. the Blanc de Blancs has tiny, perfectly translucent bubbles with a sultry umami-driven finish. It makes a classic ride of indulgence and distinguished beauty.

Then we have the Brut Rosé, a blend of 48% Chardonnay, 48% Pinot Noir, and 4% Pinot Meunier. It's made using the traditional méthode champenoise, fermented 50% in neutral French Oak, and 50% in stainless steel. It is kept en tirage for a minimum 36 months, giving a layered texture to the gentle fruit and fresh acidity. The Brut Rosé is also a comprised blend of multiple vintages: 2019: 75% 2018: 21% 2017: 3% 2016: 1%

Next time you're reaching for a great bottle of sparkling wine, don't hesitate to drink American. Drink Oregon. American sparkling wine is indeed alive and well in the Pacific Northwest.