Aspiring First Gentleman Doug Emhoff Needs to Up His Style Game—Here’s How
Welcome to State of the Suit, a new Robb Report series in which writer and menswear stylist Caroline Reilly examines the sartorial choices of candidates, pundits, and other movers and shakers. Whether it’s an ode to a departing president’s timeless style or a fantasy list of items we think would better suit a prominent figure, she has plenty of thoughts.
Historically, first ladies have carried the mantle of being the fashion icons of a presidency and from the day their husbands hit the campaign trail, everything they wear, their choice of hairstyle, and their preferred shade of lipstick, all become fodder for public scrutiny and can even boost the economy. For better or worse, it immortalizes them in the American fashion zeitgeist. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis is, of course, the most notable style icon among our former first ladies. Whether she was donning a Christian Dior gown and a diamond brooch in her bouffant for a state dinner at the White House, or insisting on not changing out of the pink Chanel suit she was wearing when President Kennedy was assassinated, Jackie understood that the clothes a presidential spouse chooses to wear are part of history. More recently, Michelle Obama caught the attention of the fashion press for mixing items high and low, wearing everything from off-the-rack J.Crew to Alaia and supporting independent American designers such as Isabel Toledo. But where is it written that the women should have all the fun?
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Come January, we may have our first-ever first gentleman in the White House in Doug Emhoff. Emhoff’s style, as it stands, is simplistic: navy suits, neutral shirts, and an occasional windowpane sportcoat. Classic and traditional, there is nothing remarkable or objectionable about his choices, which makes him an ideal blank canvas. By all appearances, Emhoff seems an affable guy, radiating the kind of just happy to be here energy that comes from years of standing behind his powerful wife, for whom he oozes nothing but adoration.
But now is not the time for complacency. Emhoff is in a singular position as a man in American politics and has a real opportunity to illustrate how menswear can make history. A seemingly simple ensemble – a pair of trousers, a boot, a well-tailored jacket, can send just as strong a message as an elaborate designer dress. The campaign trail will prove the ultimate testing ground, speaking to Emhoff’s values as much as his sense of style. As a menswear stylist, Emhoff is a dream client and so I’ve compiled a lookbook of outfits I’d dress Emhoff in if I were lending my expertise. I’ve chosen to focus on American-made and American legacy brands (a genuine way to connect with voters in a regional context). I’ve also enlisted the help of Allen Farmelo, Robb Report’s digital watch editor, to accessorize Doug with a few choice timepieces. Behold, our dream looks for Doug Emhoff:
Doug in the Northeast
For campaign trips to the Northeast (my home region), Emhoff has several great local brands to choose from. The Andover Shop, which celebrates its 75th anniversary this year, carries some of the most beautiful knitwear and shirting, and it can be easily styled with a sturdy, durable Blucher from New England’s own Alden. I’d have Doug lean into the academic aesthetic that dominates much of the menswear in this region with earthy tones, and craggy-but-luxe textures to add interest. Allen recommends pairing all of this with a Patek Philippe 5226G which he says is akin to an LL Bean field watch but with high horology. In my dream world, Emhoff also takes a trip to the LL Bean’s Freeport HQ wearing the brand’s waxed cotton jacket and leaving with his very own embroidered Boat & Tote.
Doug Heads South
God, dressing Doug for Texas would be so fun. The region is so rich with fashion heritage and the selection of brands based and manufactured there is a real delight to shop. The key for styling here is to lean into the location’s distinct aesthetic without turning Doug into a yeehaw caricature. That means yes to pearl snaps but in a neutral color from Houston-based Hamilton Shirts (the state’s oldest family-owned business). Boots from Lucchese are a must but in a more wearable Chelsea silhouette and paired with (what else?) classic denim from Buck Mason. Allen came in with a next-level find: a Ralph Lauren western-styled watch with a carved leather strap that is surely an icon in the making and I’d be remiss if I didn’t suggest Doug top it all off with a timeless Stetson.
Doug Goes West
The thought of Doug channeling a cool PNW dad (but less granola-crunchy) brings me so much joy. For his time in the Pacific Northwest and the Western states, Doug would be wise to lean into that earthy aesthetic while retaining some of the traditional style that feels true to him. New Balance sneakers from the brand’s American-made line are a perfect example of how to achieve that, er, balance, as is the heritage-rich knitwear selection from Pendleton, which was founded in Oregon in the 1800s. I’d suggest he stick to neutral colors that reflect the landscape, such as a forest green overshirt from Dehen 1920. To perfectly complement these cool but classic styles, Allen recommends a funky diver model from Zenith.
Doug in the Midwest (Iowa, Baby!)
Doug’s style in the Midwest will be critical, not least because he’ll likely be photographed at the Iowa State Fair downing some sort of deep-fried delicacy and rubbing shoulders with the most fawned-over voting block in the country. And so it’s only fitting that we outfit Doug in American classics like a Ralph Lauren jacket and Levi’s jeans. Allen’s call for a timepiece is a Pilot’s watch from IWC, which was once an American company, as the perfect “stealth wealth” choice; an LL Bean Field watch is also a good down home option (at a far more humble price point).
Doug Suits Up
Emhoff’s suiting game is decent; he’s a guy with simple suiting tastes and I think that fits his personality well. For his coloring and physique, I’d put him in a classic charcoal blue suit from J. Press, a crisp shirt with a point collar from Hamilton Shirts, and black accessories from Frank Clegg and Alden to formalize the look. For his wrist, Allen recommends a stainless Rolex Datejust in the 36mm size – a classic, and a watch he can find through any number of resellers like those in New York’s diamond district, a bazaar of merchants, many of whom are immigrants running family-owned businesses (a significant pool of voters Doug would be wise to tap).
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