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Harper's Bazaar

The Beauty Secrets Behind the Doll Lashes at Marc Jacobs

Katie Intner
2 min read
marc jacobs runway 2024 – show
Marc Jacobs Sets the Beauty Tone for NYFWDimitrios Kambouris - Getty Images


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We’ve seen our fair share of spider lashes on the runway (think Prada’s Spring/Summer 2023 show), but Marc Jacobs just raised the bar this season, debuting massive, dramatic lashes on his Fall 2024 runway—and in turn, setting the tone for what is expected to be a beauty-heavy Fashion Month.

At the show, which kicked off New York Fashion Week a week early, Jacobs showed oversize silhouettes and exaggerated proportions, creating the illusion that the models were paper dolls. Models walked underneath a giant sculpture of a folding table and chairs by artist Robert Therrien wearing cloudlike hair and the aforementioned insane lashes.

Makeup artist Diane Kendal referenced the ’60s for the look—specifically, legendary Motown girl group the Supremes.“[Marc] wanted to re-create the beauty of Diana Ross in the ’60s—but we made it a more twisted version,” Kendal tells Bazaar. To create the dramatic lashes, she applied liner on just the top lash line, and then glued on false lashes coated in inky black nail polish, which gave the eyes “density and a super spidery look.” (Could the lash look be a sign that Jacobs’s Velvet Noir Mascara—a cult favorite from the designer’s defunct beauty brand—is coming back? Only time will tell.)

Leaning into the ’60s mod vibe, Kendal kept the model’s complexion super matte. To prep, she started by cleansing the face with Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleansing Cloths, before hydrating the under-eye area and face with Cetaphil Hydrating Eye Gel-Cream and Cetaphil Daily Oil-Free Facial Moisturizer SPF 35, respectively. “It’s important for the skin to be moisturized, so that when we put the foundation and powder on, we get really gorgeous coverage that doesn’t look dry,” she says.

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The rest of the face was kept very figure-esque, with taupe contour and white highlighter. (Kendal applied white greasepaint and white eye shadow at the inner corner of the eye, on top of the brow bone, and under the brow.) To mattify the face, Kendal piled on the Laura Mercier Translucent Loose Setting Powder.

marc jacobs rtw spring 2024 ambiance
Nina Westervelt - Getty Images

The hair was equally exaggerated and overly proportioned, with 108 voluminous wigs—ranging from copper to deep brown to Sharon Tate blonde—created by hairstylist Duffy. “From a beauty perspective, Marc wanted this idea of excess,” he explains. “The shape is simple, but it’s a suggestion of the late-’60s and early-’70s disco moment that is the Supremes.”

To keep the wings textured and intact on the models’ heads, Duffy used a mix of hairsprays, from L’Oréal Elnett Satin Strong Hold Hairspray to Bumble and Bumble’s Spray de Mode.

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