Do Jade Rollers Work? Dermatologists Explain How the Benefits

Fact checked by Michelle RegaladoReviewed by Lucy Chen, MD

At-home beauty tools and devices are having a moment—nay, an era. Every day seems to come with a new range of must-haves, and yet we can't help but wonder how effective these really are. And, while most have a decidedly clinical appearance, the jade roller comes with an aesthetic appeal worthy of any vanity flatlay. We'll be the first to admit that we bought into the rage and keep one actively chilling in the fridge for hungover mornings. (But for the sake of transparency, we also can't remember the last time we took it out for a spin.) Yes, they may feel amazing but how much do they actually live up to the claims of promoting lymphatic drainage, depuffing, and sculpting?

We reached out to the experts for the final say on whether jade rollers actually work and if we should return to the cooling practice once and for all. Below, top skincare experts weigh in on the real benefits of jade rollers and how to use them correctly.

Meet the Experts

• Joshua Zeichner, MD, is a New York-based, board-certified dermatologist.
  

• Renée Rouleau is a celebrity esthetician based in Austin, TX. She is also the founder and creator of her eponymous skincare line.

• Vanessa Coppola, APN-C, FNP-BC is a board-certified and licensed family nurse practitioner who also specializes in facial aesthetics. She is also the founder of Bare Aesthetic, a top med spa and wellness oasis in New Jersey.

• Gudrun Snyder, D.Ac., MSAc, LAc, is a Doctor of East Asian Acupuncture who specializes in a root-cause resolution approach to treatment. She is the founder of Moon Rabbit Acupuncture.

What Are Jade Rollers?

Jade rollers are stone rolling devices made of jade, which have been used in skincare for a long time, explains Zeichner. The act of face rolling has been around for thousands of years, with origins that can be traced to China, where jade—a semi-precious stone that is said to have energy-healing properties that help keep the skin youthful and cool—was mined. Moreover, Snyder explains that "in Eastern culture jade is associated with beauty and good fortune."

Now, they come in a variety of different stones such as rose quartz and black obsidian, which are believed to have other healing properties. The size of the roller and design can vary too—it is common to see dual-ended rollers that feature a larger size for all over the face and a smaller size for around the eyes.

The Benefits of Jade Rollers

"In the beauty industry, we commonly use jade facial rollers to de-puff the face, reduce fluid retention, and increase circulation to the skin for a more sculpted appearance with a glow," explains Coppola. "The cold touch of the stone can help soothe inflammation in the skin," Zeichner adds.

"Not only do jade rollers improve the overall appearance and work to de-puff your skin, but also improve blood circulation and relieve facial and jaw tension," says Snyder. Another bonus: "Rolling the device over skincare products you have applied may help enhance penetration of the active ingredients," Zeichner explains. (Anything that can potentially turn a normal serum into a SuperSerum is great in our book.)

"Not only are jade rollers great for their aesthetic benefits, but also for their relaxation and stress reduction," adds Snyder. "The ritual of jade rolling can be a calming and meditation experience." Facial massage and face rolling do have some similar tendencies, but facial massage tends to work deeper into the skin tissues to relax muscles and ease tension. Both techniques help to boost circulation, leaving your complexion with a rosy, radiant look, and appearance of smoother, more taut skin.

Can Jade Rollers Really Sculpt Your Face and Jawline?

To put it simply, no. Aside from being slightly de-puffing and enjoyable to use, jade rollers unfortunately don't make a difference in the tightness of the skin or sharpness of the jawline. "The muscles in the face will drop with age. It's just a reality," says Rouleau. "Jade rollers, due to their 'rolling pin' shape, can't target the muscles enough to be able to stimulate muscle tone and help with lymphatic drainage to reduce puffiness." That being said, there's no harm to be done by using a jade roller, so if you do feel like you're getting enough of a de-puffing effect to see a difference in your jawline, go for it.

So What Can Jade Rollers Do?

"While the effects are likely temporary, jade facial rollers can help reduce puffiness, particularly early morning puffiness. When we are asleep in a supine [on your back] position, fluid can pool in our lymphatic system, causing morning puffiness. Jade facial rollers can speed up the process of our lymphatic system to drain away this excess fluid and provide additional blood flow to the muscles to relax any tension. It is a wonderful early morning de-puffer," says Coppola.

Jade Rollers vs. Ice Rollers

If the term "morning de-puff" made you think of the trendy ice roller tool that's probably taken up residence in your fridge or freezer door, same. Given the similarities (handheld tool, rolling technique, cooling sensation) we can't help but wonder what the differences really are. The first is obvious: The two are made of different materials, with jade rollers taking the cake for offering a luxurious feel and better aesthetic appearance. But the natural stone jade roller can offer more than just looks. "Jade rollers are natural cooling given the innate characteristics of jade," explains Snyder. "You don’t need to refrigerate your jade roller as it should be cool when stored at room temperature." And, despite the many benefits of skin icing, Snyder notes it doesn't match or replace those of jade rolling. "Whereas an ice roller will be significantly colder than jade roller. I don’t typically recommend ice rollers as they impede circulation and decrease absorption of skincare products."

How to Effectively Use a Jade Roller

"If using a traditional facial roller, such as a rose quartz or jade roller, you can place it in the freezer or refrigerator the night before for an additional cooling effect," says Coppola. Before using, "clean your face and apply a facial lubricant, such as lotion or cream, to give the skin some 'slip' so that the facial roller doesn't tug or pull unnecessarily on the skin." As for how to roll, she recommends always rolling in one direction, "not back and forth, primarily rolling upwards and out." She explains that doing it this way "follows the channels of lymphatic drainage to reduce puffiness and drain excess fluid."

Tips

When purchasing a jade roller, Snyder asserts the importance of purchasing the real thing. She recommends Mount Lai’s stones as they are genuine jade and provide all the benefits of using an authentic stone.

Coppola continues, "A common practice is to start at the center of the jawline, rolling out towards your ear, and then working your way under the cheekbones, starting from the base of the nose, and rolling out towards the ear." From there, "proceed upwards to the brow area, rolling from the nose towards the temple. On the forehead, roll up from the eyebrows to the hairline." (This can be a great go-to move for when you feel yourself furrowing your brow, too; perhaps while straining your eyes from staring at a computer screen. For that reason, some people may stash a roller at their desk. It's not going to erase the wrinkles that are already there, but smoothing them as you're making an expression, can help remind you to relax.)

As for the neck area, Coppola says to "start in the center under the chin, and roll from under the jawline in the center out towards the ear and then down the neck." Doing this entire routine shouldn't take more than five minutes, so it's a quick and easy way to feel, and maybe even appear, more sculpted, temporarily.

Byrdie Tip

Beware of back-and-forth motions: You want to move the jade roller in an upward-sweeping motion, not rubbing.

"At the end of your rolling routine, remember jade is a semi porous stone. This means anything you use with it over time will be absorbed so you should always clean your roller after each use to prevent bacteria buildup," says Snyder. "You can do this with soap and water or with alcohol."

Jade Rollers vs. Gua Sha

If you're unfamiliar with a gua sha tool, Snyder describes it as a smooth, flat stone that may have a serrated edge. "It is often made of jade, rose quartz, even metal or porcelain [...] with curves and edges to smoothly glide over the skin." she continues. "Both jade rollers and gua sha stones are tools used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) whether for their facial, health, or relaxation benefits. However, they do differ in terms of the actual tools, techniques, and potential benefits."

When it comes to technique, Snyder recommends rolling a jade roller over the skin in an upward and outward motion to reduce puffiness and inflammation and promote relaxation. In contrast, the gua sha technique leans more towards scraping along the skin. "On the body, acupuncturists may use gua sha to relieve pain. But on the face, we use gentle pressure while holding the stone at an angle to promote lymphatic drainage and release tension," adds Snyder.

Rouleau, however, prefers to rely on a gua sha tool to get into the contours of the face to relieve "pillow face" and water retention. "Like many estheticians, I've been trained in lymphatic massage, and I know it can definitely give results. I use my hands and/or facial cupping, but the gua sha tool can work well, too. You must know the exact way to perform this if your intention is to make the skin look less puffy or you can actually cause more puffiness," cautions Rouleau. "Lymphatic drainage massage with a gua sha tool can take up to 30 minutes if you really want to get serious about it, so you need to decide if the effort is worth the reward." Even after putting in all of the work, Rouleau says the results will typically only last 24 hours.

Unique characteristics aside, both tools share a common goal of improving the overall health and appearance of the skin. "Often the choice comes down to personal preference. I like to incorporate both tools into my skincare routine and use them depending on what results I am looking for – calming and de-puffing then I choose jade rolling tension relieving and sculpting then I choose guasha," says Snyder.

Alternatives to Jade Rollers

• Retinoids: For general healthy-looking skin, Rouleau says you can't beat the gold standard: retinoids. "For smoothing away lines, wrinkles, and fading brown spots, there's just nothing more proven than a prescription retinoid," she says. "Or for sensitive skin types, a well-formulated retinol product can make a huge improvement." For the latter, Rouleau says to make sure it has the following four principles: It's stable, in opaque packaging to protect it from sunlight, kept in an airless container (sadly no dropper bottles as these allow for a lot of air exposure), and it's a product from a trusted, reputable brand. An over-the-counter retinoid like Rouleau's own Advanced Resurfacing Serum ($85) is a great entry point because they're much milder than a prescription retinoid you'll get from your doctor.

• Vitamin C: Rouleau is also a fan of vitamin C and its proven ability to brighten, boost collagen, and protect the skin from sun damage. La Roche-Posay Vitamin C Serum ($45) is one of the most popular on the market for a reason—it's a drugstore favorite with 10% pure vitamin C and salicylic acid to keep skin looking more radiant and hydrated.

• Chemical Peels: Next is chemical peels. Getting a professional peel may help give a smoother, smaller-pored appearance, which will result in the skin appearing younger.

• Lower Face-Lift: So what's the best way to lift the face? The answer is a bit hard to swallow. "For tightening, I still believe a traditional lower face-lift is the best."

• SPF: Finally, sunscreen. We've waxed poetic about its anti-aging capabilities (photodamage is a major cause of skin maturation), and we won't ever tire of singing its praises (nor will Rouleau).

Who Should Not Use a Jade Roller?

Snyder notes that while jade rolling is an extremely safe and gentle practice (she even uses it on her children for its calming effects!), technique matters. "The most important thing to remember is to use light pressure. A heavier hand may cause damage to the delicate capillaries in your face and result in bruising," she explains. "The direction that you roll is also important. First remember to roll your neck - if you only roll your face, where is all that bloat supposed to go? Then just follow the contours of your face, out and down."

While jade rollers are typically safe, there are some situations when you should avoid using them. "General rules include not using a facial roller over an area of open infection, such as active acne or skin infections," says Coppola. Other instances include a recent facial procedure, such as a chemical peel or laser procedure. She recommends speaking with your provider to discuss when it is safe to resume using your facial roller; it's typically when the skin has fully recovered—your provider will be able to tell you what to look out for to be certain you're in the clear. And if you have certain bleeding disorders or blood dyscrasias—it's important to "exercise caution and use a very light touch when using a facial roller to avoid skin injury," explains Coppola. "Also, individuals with an implantable device, such as a deep brain stimulator, should speak with their medical provider and use caution when using a facial roller with an energy-based component, such as vibratory massage," she adds.

The Final Takeaway

When it comes to jade rollers, their key benefit is providing a cooling, de-puffing sensation to the face. When used correctly, they can also help improve circulation in the face, resulting in a fresher appearance. Unfortunately, there's less to be said about their ability to tone or sculpt the face. For those kind of benefits, look to gua sha stones for a temporary fix or treatments like microcurrent for something longer-lasting.

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Read the original article on Byrdie.