The Best Collaborations at Kingpins Amsterdam
Collaborative projects showcase how far the denim industry has come in sustainability.
At Kingpins Amsterdam this week, denim mills, chemical suppliers and technology firms unveiled collections that set the bar higher, serving as learning opportunities and creative inspiration.
More from Sourcing Journal
Stretch denim continues to be a focal point for innovation. Cellulosic producer Lenzing, stretch fiber producer Roica by Asahi Kasei and Japanese denim mill Kaihara Denim came together to create the Saisei Collection, a range of stretch fabrics made with recycled fibers.
The strategic partnership offers the global market a higher composition of recycled materials in stretch denim. The Kaihara fabrics blend Lenzing Ecovero viscose fibers with Refibra technology and Roica EF recycled stretch yarn. Made of pre-consumer recycled content, Roica EF has excellent stretchability, flexibility and comfort. Lenzing Ecovero viscose fibers with Refibra technology comprise up to 20 percent of post-consumer textile waste, which is sourced from cellulose-rich materials or polyester-cotton blends, supporting the natural softness of the denim fabric.
“This partnership not only underscores the shared commitment between Lenzing and our partners to create excellent products while doing better for the environment, but also serves as a catalyst for driving the transformation towards low-impact practices across the denim value chain and beyond,” said Dennis Hui, Lenzing’s global business development manager, denim.
The collection offers three distinct denim fabrications—super stretch, comfort stretch, and a low-stretch selvedge denim. The versatile fabrics have a “subtle bulkiness and reduced drape,” delivering a unique hand feel.
Hirofumi Inagaki, Kaihara Denim’s executive officer and general manager of sales, said the mill’s long history and established expertise in premium denim manufacturing allow it to unlock the full potential of the circular fibers. “Together, we are reshaping the future of sustainable denim applications, both casual and formal, paving the way for a more circular fashion value chain,” he said.
Indigo knits have been an area of interest for the “Godfather of Denim” Adriano Goldschmied for years. His new project with Italian chemical manufacturer Soko and textile and garment manufacturer Knitdigo puts the comfy fabric back in the spotlight.
The trio presented “A New Level of Comfort,” a collection of indigo knit garments that resemble authentic denim. Goldschmied, who works with Soko for his Daily Blue brand, challenged the chemical firm to develop wash techniques compatible with knit jeans, which Luca Braschi, Soko’s consultant and denim finishing expert, said are known for their difficulty.
The collection utilizes gentle chemistries like Soko Lumia, a dry ozone technology, and Soko Authentica, a new non-acidic potassium permanganate alternative, to achieve knit garments with a worn-in appearance. Braschi said Soko Authentica “turns the page” in finishing by enabling local fading and creating natural vintage effects. Additionally, the potassium permanganate replacement is easy to manage in production.
Soko partnered with Karachi, Pakistan-based Rajby Textiles for a collection that “enhances the sensory experience” of denim as well. The result of their collaboration is a specially constructed fabric with a premium soft handle finished with Soko Diamond technology. Soko Diamond is based on a rag that contains Lumia, a permanganate and chlorine substitute activated by ozone. Lumia can increase abrasion effects without pumice stone and replace permanganate.
ArtMill, the woven fabric division of Pakistan-based denim producer Artistic Milliners, also tapped Goldschmied for a concept collection of fabrics with desert-inspired khaki hues.
Titled “Weaving Glamour,” the line uses fabrics made with Tencel, linen and cotton grown through the Milliner Cotton Initiative and washed with award-winning Baytech-HMS stones to create modern safari garments. Garments span shirt dresses, vests, cargo pants, shorts and more in a spectrum of khaki, green and sunset hues.
Cone Denim and Italian finishing company Tonello teamed up to present One Denim, an ongoing project at Kingpins designed by industry veteran Piero Turk that highlights the versatility of a single fabric.
The collection showcases 10 garments made with Cone’s Stout fabric. A long-time bestseller in Cone’s collection, the 14.5 oz. comfort stretch fabric was chosen for its balanced marble character, flexible construction and rich color achieved with the mill’s water- and chemical-reducing Distilled Indigo shades.
Pierette Scavuzzo, Cone Denim design director, said Stout has a bright cast that is ideal for achieving brilliant medium to light washes.
Styles span classic five-pocket jeans and Trucker jackets and trend-forward pieces like vests, T-shirts and dresses. The garments were curated and co-designed by Turk and Cone and sent to Tonello to be sustainably washed and finished. Technologies like Nostone enzyme wash, Obleach, Core 2.0 laser booster and The Laser helped achieve the collection’s tropical vibe.
Scavuzzo said the collection aligns with Cone’s sustainability goals of reducing complexity. “We hope this collaboration gives you a visual story of how one fabric can transform into many interpretations, without constraints,” she said. “One Denim serves as inspiration and a model for brands; The bigger the vision, the better, with using only one fabric.”
AGI Denim and Ecovative, a producer of mycelium-based materials, challenges traditional Western fashion with Mushroom Rodeo, a collection that combines denim and mycelium leather.
Mycelium leather provides a vegan alternative to conventional animal leather, addressing growing concerns around sustainability in material sourcing. In July, AGI presented Recycled Denim to Mycelium Constructs, a collaboration with Ecovative that transformed post-consumer denim waste into mycelium bricks.
Designs draw inspiration from the “great American rodeo.” A denim jacket features a mycelium leather fringe. Cowboy jeans are finished with mycelium leather trims and chaps are also made with the biodegradable material. A “PeacePelt” showcases further the material’s ability to mimic cowhide patterns and organic tones.
“Denim and leather are a perfect match—both materials evolve with time, telling the unique story of whoever wears them. Personally, working with leather has always felt very heavy in many ways to me. With Ecovative’s mycelium, we now have a lighter, freer leather that aligns with our values,” said Henry Wong, AGI Denim’s VP of product development and marketing. “Collaborating with their team has been incredible—they welcomed us into their labs, shared their cutting-edge technology, and made the entire process feel like creative play.”
Solve the daily Crossword
