The Best Essential Oils to Fade Dark Spots, According to Derms
Graphic by Cristina Cianci
Fact checked by Anna Harris
Ever heard of essential oils? You know, the liquid beauty product with a multitude of benefits? Essential oils have been used in traditional medicine for thousands of years, but when used in skincare (and when properly diluted with a carrier oil), they can help reduce inflammation, soothe eczema, and fade dark spots. When applied with the correct carriers, these oils can serve as a natural way to decrease hyperpigmentation through cellular regeneration without the chronic dryness sun sensitivity potentially caused by harsh chemicals.
"Essential oils also have anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties, both of which will help the skin improve its pigmentation by encouraging the cells that drop the pigment to 'relax' and keep their pigment intact," explains board-certified dermatologist Dr. Nava Greenfield. "This results in the appearance of brighter and healthier skin."
There are purportedly over 90 essential oils with supreme health benefits in the world of aromatherapy. Shrankhla Holecek, founder of Uma Oils, claims that these aromatic solutions can actually improve communication between your cells, which help strengthen and restore damaged skin, rather than simply treating symptoms or bleaching the spot like pharmaceutical drugs do.
Although, board-certified dermatologist Dr. Morgan Rabach, notes that there is no scientific evidence that support the efficacy of treating dark spots with essential oils. However, she adds, "Individual people may find that these may be of benefit to them for healing hyperpigmentation."
We reached out to Greenfield, Rabach, Nolecek, and board-certified cosmetic dermatologists Dr. Howard Sobel and Dr. Lauren Penzi, for more on using essential oils to fade dark spots.
Meet the Expert
Nava Greenfield, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in New York City.
Morgan Rabach, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and a member of Byrdie's Beauty & Wellness Review Board.
Howard Sobel, MD, founder of Sobel Skin, and attending dermatologist and dermatologic surgeon at Lenox Hill Hospital in New York.
Lauren Penzi, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist who specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology at MDCS Dermatology.
Shrankhla Holecek is the founder of Uma Oils, a luxe collection of organic face oils and wellness oils steeped in Ayurvedic tradition.
Keep scrolling to learn the best essential oils to treat and diminish dark spots.
Tea Tree Oil
“Tea tree oil's fading superpowers come more from its ability to prevent and rapidly heal a blemish or wound, rather than a scar fading itself (although it does have minor resurfacing properties like a gentle acid)," Holecek explains. "It banishes bacteria associated with a blemish or skin tear, leading to faster healing. When you heal faster, you're less likely to develop a dark spot."
Dr. Howard Sobel recommends swiping on tea tree oil with a cotton pad after cleansing and before heavy serums or moisturizers to "help eliminate dark spots and remove bacteria that cause breakouts."
Greenfield notes the role of a carrier oil goes beyond dilution. "The other way these treatments can work is through their carrier oils, which can function as both emollients and exfoliators on their own." Holecek suggests grapeseed as a carrier oil for blemish-prone skin.
Byrdie Tip
Dilute essential oils about six to 30 drops per ounce of carrier and always patch test any new essential oils for skin irritations on your inner elbow 24 hours before intended use.
Lavender Oil
Calming lavender essential oil works to combat dry skin, irritation, and inflammation, according to Holecek, who says it helps settle the raised part of a blemish and speeds up the skin's repairing process. "The linalyl acetate, an ester naturally found in lavender, is anti-inflammatory and has a history in wound healing, leading to less scarring," she explains. "When it comes to carriers for lavender oil, I love pomegranate best because of its ultra-small molecules that penetrate the skin quickly, delivering potent nutrients. It feels and absorbs like a serum, but does everything (and more!) that a great oil would do.”
Geranium Oil
Rabach suggests that geranium oil may work to heal damaged skin as a natural antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, while Holecek praises the oil for its host of other beneficial properties, “Geranium wields a natural astringent action, which calms redness, and is also deeply soothing and toning in nature," she says. "It also helps with better hydration retention in the skin, which always leads to an improved natural appearance of any scarring or hyperpigmentation. Pomegranate oil is a suitable carrier oil for geranium.”
Sobel suggests geranium oils for acne-prone and winter skin. "Best paired with other botanical oils, geranium helps to reduce the appearance of wrinkles while calming irritated spots and boosting naturally glowing skin," he says.
Frankincense Oil
"Once known as 'liquid gold', frankincense oil works best for those with oily skin," Sobel explains. "Additionally, the oil has been known to prevent signs of aging, fade scars, and control acne."
Holecek also praises its ability to speed up cell turnover and strengthen the skin's elasticity, "Think of frankincense’s cellular regeneration properties like the qualities of traditional retinol, but without the drying, sun-sensitivity, or thinning of the skin many retinols cause.”
Neroli Oil
Citrus-derived essential oils like neroli (which comes from the flower of the orange tree), help aid in the absorption of vitamin C even though they don't actually contain any, says Holecek. "Vitamin C is one of those substances that, while widely regarded for its healing and scar-fading properties, is notoriously poorly absorbed," she adds. "So, to double up the action of your vitamin C serums, add neroli or juniper berry oil. Added bonus: the smell of neroli.” Rabach also notes the antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties of neroli, which may aid in the healing and protection of the skin.
Vitamin C
Vitamin C is an essential nutrient required for the growth and repair of tissues in all parts of the body, including the skin, but we cannot produce it on our own. In skincare, it helps to boost collagen, lighten discoloration, and fight free radicals.
Chamomile Oil
“Chamomile oil has a fantastic naturally-occurring ingredient called Azulene (also in Blue Tansy), which is highly reparative; it's calming and cell-renewing, so it helps fight damage," explains Holecek. "Azulene is a powerful anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, so it will prevent degradation of skin in times of stress, keeping it blemish and scar-free.” Azulene oil is also incredibly soothing and suitable for sensitive skin—which are likely the properties that come to mind with chamomile (think chamomile tea).
Clary Sage Oil
"Clary sage essential oil is an excellent option for oily skin because it has the unique properties of working with skin cells at the subdermal layer to regulate sebum production naturally," says Holecek. "Clary sage is a very elegant and deeply therapeutic solution to oily skin because of its unique moderation properties. Since blemish-prone skin tends to develop more scarring, this is a wonderful preventative essential oil to add to your skincare routine.”
Turmeric Oil
Curcumin, the main active in turmeric, is a powerful anti-inflammatory. "Ayurvedic practitioners have used it [turmeric] in skincare for evening out the complexion, preventing acne and blemishes, as well as hyperpigmentation," Holecek says. "It is believed to moderate the excess melanin production that often is the cause for dark spots.” Turmeric is also known to work well as an antibacterial, anti-parasitic, and antifungal.
Rosemary Oil
According to Holecek, rosemary essential oil enhances circulation. "It is also a disinfectant, so it will help prevent bacterial growth that can lead to scar-creating blemishes," she continues. "Its phytonutrients are believed to also fight free radical-related damage and hyperpigmentation.”
Sobel praises rosemary oil for its pore-clearing and acne-reducing abilities in oily skin as well as its reinvigorating, anti-aging properties that give the skin a "youthful glow."
Jojoba Oil
According to dermatologist Dr. Lauren Penzi, jojoba oil has a similar composition to sebum in our skin, making it a great choice for an anti-inflammatory oil. "It's an antioxidant that protects from environmental damage and helps to repair any dryness or irritation with hydrating properties," she says, noting that jojoba oil also helps to reduce scarring.
Carrot Seed Oil
Carrot seed oil is another pick that features fatty acids and antioxidants to help moisturize skin and protect from environmental and free radical damage. "It also has high carotenoid content that helps provide natural SPF that protect from UV rays and aging," says Penzi. Also used to brighten skin tone and texture, carrot seed oil aids in the fading of hyperpigmentation and dark spots.
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