The best French ski resorts

French ski areas like the Portes du Soleil ski area offer huge amounts of terrain - Sacha Bittel/Photographe RP/BR-CHE Impressum
French ski areas like the Portes du Soleil ski area offer huge amounts of terrain - Sacha Bittel/Photographe RP/BR-CHE Impressum

More British skiers and snowboarders choose to head to France than anywhere else. The reason is inescapable: the French Alps offer the best variety of resorts of any country in the world. Destinations range from the high altitude and purpose built like Val Thorens, with massive and varied ski areas attached, to lesser-known farming villages with traditional French feel and tree-lined slopes like Les Carroz.

Visitors may find their euros go further in bars and restaurants in Austria and Italy these days, especially in the big name resorts, but staying in lesser-known resorts, or lower villages that link to a big name area (Les Carroz links into the Grand Massif area it shares with better known Flaine), are attractive ways to reduce costs.

Self-catering has also become a more attractive proposition, staying in increasingly upmarket newly-built apartment residences with spa facilities. Chalet packages with UK tour operators remain a good way to budget, though following a lengthy legal battle, they no longer come with the free ski hosting around the slopes that was once a fixture of French chalet holidays.  

Thanks to France's popularity with Britons, the pick of the holidays for high season dates can sell out, so it pays to book early for the best choice of accommodation. Indeed, those planning a half-term break or Easter (Sunday, April 1 in 2018) with the family need to book well in advance. This year, December 24 is a Sunday and New Year’s Eve falls on Sunday, too. However, there are often plenty of bargains available in the low-season dates in January and March.

Here's our pick of where to go.

Unless stated otherwise prices are per person for seven nights in the cheapest available week. Prices include flights, transfers, and half-board accommodation and are based on two people sharing a double or twin room. Chalet board means half board plus afternoon tea and wine with dinner.

Best for beginners

Courchevel

Courchevel, famous for its glitz and multi-million-euro property prices, might at first glance seem an unusual choice for novices, but the resort has many facets. Situated at one end of the giant Trois Vallées ski area that includes Méribel and Val Thorens, its smartest and most expensive village is Courchevel 1850. In less fashionable Moriond (also known as 1650), Village (1550), Le Praz (1300) and La Tania there is much cheaper accommodation to be found. Moriond is ideal for beginners, with gentle nursery slopes well away from the inter-resort traffic of the rest of the Trois Vallées. The beginner slopes around the altiport area of 1850 are also extremely good, with mild gradients and easy lifts.

There’s a wide choice of ski and snowboard schools, but learning from a native English speaker is an advantage, and these schools are British-run: BASS Courchevel, New Generation, Supreme Ski, Sweet Snowsports, and The Snow School.

Courchevel ski resort - Credit: David Andre/DAVID ANDRE
Courchevel boasts plenty of gentle beginner slopes Credit: David Andre/DAVID ANDRE

Parents needn't worry about inexperienced small children on chairlifts during classes – children in ESF ski school groups wear waistcoats equipped with magnets, which lock on to the chair and are released at the top.

Where to stay

Le Ski has 23 chalets in Moriond and neighbouring La Tania and over 30 years of experience in offering holidays here. Bellevue is a contemporary chalet apartment in the Aspen Lodge complex in Moriond with views across to 1850. It sleeps four in two bedrooms. From £673, Le Ski.

Alternatives 

Alpe d'HuezMorzine or Val Cenis all have dedicated nursery slopes out of the way of ski traffic.

Fast facts

Resort 1,260m to 1,850m
Trois Vallées
Slopes 1,260m to 3,230m
Lifts 160
Pistes 600km, 13% green, 39% blue, 38% red, 10% black
Snowmaking 33%
Six-day lift pass €294 for Trois Vallées, €250 for Courchevel Valley

Inside the luxury chalets of Courchevel

Best for intermediates

Serre Chevalier

This is the collective name for a dozen villages along the road from the ancient garrison town of Brian?on in the southern Alps. They share a ski area, with a respectable 250km of varied but mainly intermediate slopes, served by 61 lifts.

Think of Serre Che as the laid-back, country cousin of A-list resorts further north, such as Val d'Isère or Courchevel – a bit smaller and a bit less hi-tech, but also friendlier, more relaxed and with bags more Gallic character. Pick of the main villages is Monêtier Les Bains, a picturesque spa resort – it’s quieter and altogether more charming than the other villages of Villeneuve and Chantemerle. For skiers stuck on the intermediate plateau, British ski school New Generation can help. It's run here by experienced instructor Gavin Crosby and his wife Mel, who offer group lessons on peak dates as well as private coaching all season. Book well in advance.

Where to stay

Chalet Charlotte is a former monastery that has been run for years by Ski Miquel. The company has now bought the property and it has undergone a complete makeover. From £609, Ski Miquel.

Alternatives

Les ArcsLa PlagneFlaine and Méribel all have extensive blue and red runs that give a feeling of having gone somewhere each day, rather than repeating the same slopes.

Fast facts

Resort 1,200m to 1,500m
Slopes 1,200m to 2,735m
Lifts 61
Pistes 250km, 23% green, 29% blue, 35% red, 13% black
Snowmaking 154 hectares
Six-day lift pass €251

Best for experts

Val d'Isère

The resort is spread along a high, remote valley and shares the giant ski area formerly known as Espace Killy with neighbouring Tignes. It has now changed its name to reflect precisely what’s inside the tin: Val d’Isère-Tignes.

Off piste in Val d'Isére - Credit: Office du Tourisme Val d'Isère/Andyparant.com
Val d'Isère is renowned for its varied and challenging off piste Credit: Office du Tourisme Val d'Isère/Andyparant.com

Val d'Isère divides into a number of sectors, from the central hub at the base of the main Solaise and Bellevarde lifts to the quieter outposts of La Daille, Le Laisinant and Le Fornet. As in any major holiday destination in the Alps, the vast majority of visitors are intermediates, so it’s not essential to be an expert to enjoy good times here. But those who are are, you will – particularly if you investing in expert guidance to make the most of the challenging terrain, both on and off piste. Few world-class resorts have such variety. Progression Ski is a British-run school offering the full range of group and private ski and snowboard lessons. Instruction is expert and friendly.

Last winter saw the final stage of the redevelopment of Solaise, with the opening of an American-style day lodge up the mountain, reached by a new 10-person gondola with heated seats and Wi-Fi.

A post shared by Val d'Isère (@valdisere) on Mar 10, 2017 at 10:42am PST

Work begins in autumn 2017 on Le Coin de Val, a five-year €200 million redevelopment of the resort centre.

Where to stay 

Aspen Lodge is a smart apartment block, centrally located on the main street, with suites of various sizes and a full concierge service. It's convenient for the slopes as well as shopping and nightlife. From £849 in the three-bedroom Aspen Lodge Suite for six people, VIP Ski.

Alternatives 

Chamonix has some of the most demanding terrain in the Alps and Sainte Foy is a small resort with a giant off-piste area.

Fast facts

Resort 1,850m
Val d’Isère-Tignes
Slopes 1,550m to 3,455m
Lifts 78
Pistes 300km, 15% green, 42% blue, 26% red, 17% black
Snowmaking 974 guns
Six-day lift pass €278

Best for reliable snow

Tignes

With one of the main resort villages at 2,100m and a high point of 3,455m, Tignes' altitude means the slopes are open here for 10 months of the year. From mid-November it's possible to descend from the top of the Grande Motte glacier to the funicular station at Val Claret, a drop of 1,350m. That's more than most resorts in the world can offer in February. The glacier is the highest point in the Espace Killy ski area that Tignes shares with Val d'Isère and the key to its long season. The piste grooming is also some of the best in Europe.

Some 78 lifts serve 300km of piste in the two resorts. From Val Claret at 2,300m, it’s possible to drop (interrupted by three lifts) all the way down to the satellites of Les Boisses (Tignes 1800) and Les Brévières at 1,550m.

A post shared by TIGNES (@tignesofficiel) on Mar 2, 2017 at 3:29am PST

Most-recently-developed Tignes 1800 and Les Brévières provide more charming bases in which to stay. However, higher Val Claret and Tignes Le Lac – 2km apart but jointly known as Tignes 2100 to reflect their altitude – offer the purpose-built convenience that is the hallmark of high-altitude French resorts.

Where to stay 

Le Nevada is a five-star hotel apartment complex with wellness centre and pool in a convenient position for the main lifts and shops at Val Claret. A highlight is the gourmet La Table en Montagne restaurant, presided over by Michelin-starred chef Jean-Michel Bouvier. From £497 based on six sharing a two-bedroom self-catering apartment, Sno.

Alternatives 

Val Thorens and Alpe d'Huez both are high resorts that guarantee early and late season snow.

Fast facts

Resort 2,100m
Espace Killy
Slopes 1,550m to 3,455m
Lifts 78
Pistes 300km, 15% green, 42% blue, 26% red, 17% black
Snowmaking 974 guns
Six-day lift pass €278

Tignes - Credit: Andy Parant
Tignes has slopes up to 3,455m Credit: Andy Parant

Best for charm and romance

St Martin-de-Belleville

French resorts are known for their convenience rather than charm, so attractive villages with large ski areas are notable by their absence. St Martin, the prettiest and quietest destination in the giant Trois Vallées ski area, is an exception.

An old cheese-making villlage below better-known Les Menuires in the Belleville Valley, St Martin has raised its traditionally sleepy profile in recent years. It offers a radically different experience from neighbouring Trois Vallées resorts, such as Courchevel and Méribel, and will bore the pants off party animals – but that's how its growing band of fans likes it.

A fast gondola followed by a chair ascend from the village to the ridge above the Belleville and Les Allues valleys. From there pistes lead over to MéribelLes Menuires and the rest of the Trois Vallées, or the local red and blue runs coast back down to St Martin.

In the village, modern architecture respects the old farmhouses and 17th-century church. La Bouitte restaurant in the adjoining hamlet of St Marcel has three Michelin stars.

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Where to stay

The Ecurie is a stunning conversion of 130-year stables into a chalet for eight people. From £875 (whole chalet £7,000), travel not included, The Alpine Club.

Alternatives

Megève has horse-drawn sleighs and an attractive resort centre, and little-known Aussois in the Maurienne Valley is rural France at its simplest and most delightful.

Fast facts

Resort 1400m
Trois Vallées
Slopes 1,260m to 3,230m
Lifts 160
Pistes 600km, 13% green, 39% blue, 38% red, 10% black
Snowmaking 33%
Six-day lift pass €294

Best for partying

Méribel

There's no denying that the thousands of international visitors who migrate each winter to this the geographical centre of the giant Trois Valleés ski area know how to party in style.

A branch of the French on-mountain après experience La Folie Douce, at the mid-station of the main Saulire gondola, gets loud at 3pm with a DJ and tabletop dancing. The clientele tend to migrate after 5pm to the Rond Point, better known as The Ronny, just above the main village and the must-visit après venue. It has live bands and a fantastic, up-for-it atmosphere. On a good night, you could be crowd surfing by 6pm. Alternatively, Jack’s Bar has comedy and live bands every evening from 5pm and Barometer has a pleasant English pub atmosphere. Later on, La Taverne and Le Pub are good warm-up spots for the main clubbing action even later at O'Sullivan's or Les Saint Pères. Méribel's local slopes are extensive and mainly intermediate. They give easy access to the rest of the Trois Vallées ski area.

A post shared by Méribel (@meribel3vallees) on Nov 16, 2016 at 8:19am PST

The resort has an unrivalled selection of good-quality chalets, although wickedly high prices have led to a sharp fall in the overall visitor numbers in recent years.

Where to stay

There’s a huge choice of accommodation and operators here. Mark Warner has three decades of experience and Loden is a comfortable chalet sleeping 12. From £949, Mark Warner.

Alternatives 

In the country that gave après ski its name there is remarkably little of it. Les Deux Alpes and Chamonix are livelier than most resorts and do their best to address the lack of partying with a more extensive range of bars and late-night entertainment.

Fast facts

Resort 1,400m to 1,700m
Trois Vallées
Slopes 1,260m to 3,230m
Lifts 160
Pistes 600km, 13% green, 39% blue, 38% red, 10% black
Snowmaking 33%
Six-day lift pass €294

Best for families

Les Gets

With its village-based nursery slopes, pedestrian-friendly centre and road train shuttle, this village in the giant Portes du Soleil ski area makes an ideal base for families. The region has oodles of groomed runs -  286 of them, to be exact – and they are linked by 196 lifts. There's a huge choice of good accommodation including child-friendly chalets with nannies, and Les Gets itself is a pleasing mixture of old Savoyard chalets and more modern wood-and-stone buildings constructed in keeping with their Alpine surroundings. Les Gets’ only drawback is its modest 1,172m altitude, which means that snow cover is not necessarily reliable at village level throughout the season.

Kids snowboarding in Les Gets - Credit: Nicolas Joly
Les Gets' village-based nursery slopes make it ideal for families Credit: Nicolas Joly

However, there are more nursery slopes up the mountain at Chavannes, as well as the American Indian themed Grand Cry fun park. Kindergartens include Les Fripouilles (lesgets.com/les-fripouilles-nursery.html), which caters for children from six months to four years. Several British snow-sports schools operate here: BASS, Les Gets Snowsports and Mint, which teaches snowboarding.

Where to stay

A short walk away from the pistes, Chalet Les Chats Bleus sleeps 13 and has family suites with separate bedrooms and a shared bathroom. From £699, Ski Famille. Full child care is available.

Alternatives

La Tania in the Trois Vallées is car-free, although families with little ones need to be wary of skiers speeding down the main drag towards the gondola. Vaujany is an unspoilt village linking into the Alpe d'Huez ski area with no through traffic and a fine crèche.

A post shared by Les Gets (@lesgetsofficiel) on Feb 27, 2017 at 8:24am PST

Fast facts

Resort 1,172m
Portes du Soleil
Slopes 950m to 2,275m
Lifts 196
Pistes 600km (12% green, 43% blue, 36% red, 9% black
Snowmaking 1074 guns
Six-day lift €255 

Best for terrain parks

Avoriaz

This purpose-built resort above Morzine in the massive French/Swiss Portes du Soleil area was largely the brainchild of French racer Jean Vuarnet, better known for his sunglasses than for his gold medal at the Squaw Valley Olympics in 1960. Accommodation is mainly ski-in/ski-out apartments, many of which have been renovated in recent years. Avoriaz has a quirky charm and a varied array of terrain parks – five plus a superpipe.

Snowboarding made its European debut here in the late 1980s and Avoriaz built the first halfpipe in Europe here in 1993. Facilities have come a long way since then. Park novices can learn first turns at the Chapelle park, which has kicker lines from green to red along with boxes and rails, before progressing to the pro lines and airbag in the Arare park.

Avoriaz - Credit: James North
Snowboarders will love Avoriaz Credit: James North

In the Stash park all features are made from wood and there are three lines of varying difficulty snaking through the forest. The idea originated with Jake Burton, founder of Burton Snowboards. Avoriaz also has two parks especially for kids, including Lil'Stash, and the Burton Kids Parkway.

The Portes du Soleil’s variety of slopes suits everyone, from complete beginners to veteran powderhounds, and Avoriaz makes a good base for easy access to all of it. High and rocky, the resort is a great destination in a good snow year, much less so when the snow is thin on the lower slopes.

Where to stay 

Five-star Residence L'Amara is a luxury ski-in/ski-out south-facing residence in Avoriaz and offers fantastic views over the Morzine valley. The comfortable apartments range from one bedroom sleeping four people up to five bedrooms sleeping 10 to 12 people.There's also access to the Deep Nature Spa and swimming pool. From £1,346 for a one-bedroom apartment sleeping up to four people, travel not included, Pierre et Vacances.

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Alternatives

The Portes du Soleil has a total of 30 parks including boardercross and ski cross,Tignes and La Plagne also both have large parks with extensive features.

Fast facts

Resort 1,800m
Portes du Soleil
Slopes 950m to 2,275m
Lifts 194
Pistes  286 runs (12% green, 43% blue, 36% red, 9% black
Snowmaking 1074 guns
Six-day lift pass €255

Best for value

Aussois

This unknown gem of a resort is tucked away in the Maurienne Valley, the final frontier of French ski areas. Despite concessions to tourism, the traditional village at the foot of the 3,700m Dent Parrachée makes an ideal base for anyone wanting to combine a ski holiday with the ambience of rural France at a far more sensible price than is possible in the big name destinations of the neighbouring Tarentaise Valley.

With 55km of slopes served by 10 lifts it's not a place for those who want a huge daily mileage. There are other larger Maurienne resorts nearby, including La Norma, easily reached on the other side of the valley. More extensive terrain is available at Val Cenis, Valfréjus and Bonneval. The Eski-Mo lift pass includes access to them all along with free shuttle buses.

Non-skiing/snowboarding activities include snowscooting, paragliding, ice climbing, exploring the surrounding plateau by dogsled or toboganning.

Where to stay

The Flocons d'Argent apartment complex is on the edge of the piste and has an indoor pool. From £76 based on five sharing a two-bedroom self-catering apartment. Price includes ferry crossings for one car, Peak Retreats.

Alternatives

St Lary in the Pyrenees is a sensibly-priced alternative to the Alps. Puy St Vincent in the Southern Alps is a French resort loved by French families who count their euros carefully.

Fast facts

Resort 1,500m
Slopes 1,500m to 2,750m
Lifts 10
Pistes 55km, 24% green, 29% blue, 33% red, 14% black 
Snowmaking 130 guns
Six-day lift pass €157, covers five resorts in the Maurienne Valley

Best for weekends

La Clusaz

Close to Lake Annécy and within an easy hour’s drive of Geneva airport, La Clusaz has well-groomed intermediate and advanced slopes that are all too often overlooked by skiers and snowboarders driving past on their way towards the Trois Vallées and other famous resorts of the Tarentaise.

La Clusaz and smaller Manigod share 132km of slopes; 10 minutes away by free shuttle bus are those of Le Grand Bornand and its lift-linked satellite village, St Jean de Sixt. All four are covered by the same Aravis lift pass and bring the total terrain up to 220km.

Skiers in La Clusaz - Credit: Pascal Lebeau
La Clusaz is within an easy drive of Geneva airport Credit: Pascal Lebeau

Most of the slopes are intermediate, but the La Balme area of La Clusaz offers long runs and considerable challenges. Le Grand Bornand has a dedicated freeride area at the back of Lachat that is neither patrolled nor groomed, but is avalanche protected. It is sufficiently extensive and challenging to satisfy even the most demanding skier or snowboarder. A 200m covered magic carpet lift makes the Rosay plateau area, in Le Grand Bornand, very accessible for beginners.

As well as making La Clusaz an ideal spot for the weekend, airport convenience explains in part why so many Brits have bought chalets and apartments here. However, their presence is muted – resorts are mainly frequented by the French, and unlike in some of the big name resorts, holidaying here feels like France. La Clusaz has a life beyond snow and is a thriving community 12 months of the year. Le Grand Bornand is the home of Reblochon cheese, an inescapable inclusion in all its varied forms, from fondue to raclette, on every restaurant menu in the region.

Where to stay

The best-positioned apartment building is the Residence Les Grandes Alpes. From £176 for a two-bedroom self-catering apartment sleeping six, including ferry crossings for one car, Peak Retreats.

Alternatives 

Morzine and Megève are both within a 90-minute drive of Geneva Airport.

Fast facts

Resort 1,100m
Slopes 1,100m to 2,600m
Lifts 52
Pistes 132km, 28% green, 36% blue, 28% red, 8% black
Snowmaking 190 guns
Six-day lift pass €143.50 (or €212 for 6 non-consecutive days)

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