The best Italian ski resorts

If low prices, good food, and a fabulous ambience are important, then Italy is the place.

As a destination it's much more laid back than its rivals in France, Switzerland and Austria, with the holiday emphasis on fun and relaxation rather than sporting excellence. As a result, the enjoyment factor is all the higher. Families with young children are welcomed even in the most chic hotels and restaurants.

Italy is also blessed with a number of giant ski areas. For beautiful scenery and variety of terrain, the central core of the Dolomites is unbeatable. This area is also home to the famous Sella Ronda – a circular network of lifts and pistes around the Gruppo del Sella, a majestic limestone massif, taking in a host of resorts.

It must be stated that snow cover over the past 40 years has not been as reliable everywhere as the Italians would have liked. The Sella Ronda resorts and other destinations in the Dolomites tend to miss out on the regular winter storms that strike the peaks of the Austrian Tirol less than 100km to the north.  But highly-efficient snowmaking means that even when there is almost no natural cover, resorts have been able to maintain many miles of piste in pristine condition.

Away from the Dolomites, other Italian resorts such as Sestriere and Bardonecchia benefited from a Mediterranean weather pattern that produced some of the best snow in Europe over the otherwise mainly dry Christmas 2016 period.

Unless otherwise stated prices are per person for seven nights in the cheapest available week. Prices include flights, transfers and half-board accommodation and are based on two people sharing a double or twin room. Chalet board means half board plus afternoon tea and wine with dinner.

Best for beginners

Passo Tonale 

This compact, value-for-money village lies at 1,880m, with lifts going up to 3,088m. It's one of the few Italian resorts to be snowsure from late October to mid-June, thanks to the Presena glacier at 3,000m, which is why Italian national ski teams train there. The marked runs are mainly suited to beginners and intermediates, and Passo Tonale is also linked by lift to the slopes of Ponte di Legno and Temù, which offer advanced skiers and riders more challenges. They're all covered on the Adamello lift pass and the ski areas have been rebranded as one entity in recent years, going by the moniker Pontedilegno-Tonale.

A gondola installed for 2015/16 has made the glacier more accessible, going from Passo Paradiso (2,585m) to Passo Presena (3,000m). Non-skiers and nervous beginners can also use the lift to enjoy panoramic views of the Italian Alps - the only piste down is red.

The best ski resorts in France

However, the overriding reason for a visit is the gentle open slopes that form a near-perfect nursery area for learning to snowplough and gaining confidence, without the threat of more accomplished slope users whizzing scarily by. There are two ski and snowboard schools: and both Tonale Presena and Ponte Tonale  offer a decent standard of instruction. When booking a lesson, do ask for an English-speaking instructor.

The resort was developed mainly to service the slopes, with a road running through the middle, and features predominantly chalet-style buildings. It's generally quiet during the week, but comes to life during the Italian holidays and at weekends.

Be sure to have a meal at Hotel La Mirandola, situated way above the main resort. It dates back to the 12th century, and the restaurant has a vaulted stone ceiling, oodles of atmosphere and can be reached in the evening by snowmobile.

Where to stay 

For a warm welcome and friendly service, the three-star, family-run Hotel Adamello is hard to beat. Good food, including a Trentino-themed gala buffet, is served and there's also a children's games room. From ￡589, plus €100 hotel credit, Crystal Ski.

Alternatives 

Bardonecchia and Madesimo are both uncommercialised resorts much loved by Italians. Each has easy, uncrowded slopes that are ideal for learning.

Fast facts 

Resort 1,885m  
Passo Tonale, Ponte di Legno and Temù
Slopes 1,120m to 3,015m 
Lifts 30 
Pistes 100km, 17% blue, 66% red, 17% black 
Snowmaking 100% 
Six-day lift pass €244 

Best for intermediates

Corvara

The lively and family-friendly village of Corvara, along with neighbouring San Cassiano which is smaller and quieter, is situated at the crossroads of two huge intermediate playgrounds. The local Alta Badia ski area gives easy access to the Sella Ronda circuit, and both are rich in cruisy, confidence-boosting red runs that are usually well groomed. They're also home to some delightful mountain restaurants. Venture as far afield as daring allows before turning for home, ensuring time to catch the last lift.

At sunset, the cliffs and crags of the Dolomites turn an extraordinarily vibrant shade of pink. The panorama is so enchanting that eyes are perpetually drawn to the skyline, and sometimes it’s hard to concentrate on the snow underfoot.

There is a clutch of highly regarded luxury hotels here. The four-star La Perla in Corvara offers superb food and service in a relaxed atmosphere and features a spectacular, extensive wine cellar, while the four-star Posta Zirm is famed for its fine cuisine and feng shui-inspired spa.

Meanwhile, in San Cassiano, the five-star Rosa Alpina has individually designed rooms and boasts two top-class restaurants, including the two Michelin-star St Hubertus.

For dining at altitude with superb mountain views, the Piz Boé Alpine Lounge located alongside the upper station of the Boè cable car that departs from the centre of Corvara, is recommended.

Where to stay 

With a strong reputation for good food and a homely atmosphere, Corvara’s three-star Hotel La Plaza is a sound choice, and great value for money. This family-run hotel has attractive rooms, as well as a small spa. From ￡834, Inghams.

Alternatives 

Kronplatz in the Sudtirol has an extraordinarily high proportion of gondolas among its 32 lifts, with 21 in total. These give access to 119km of mainly intermediate slopes, with plenty of wide open red and blue runs. La Thuile in the Aosta Valley offers a wealth of gentle reds and blues, and is linked to La Rosière in France, where more challenging reds await.

Fast facts  

Resort 1,650m 
Sella Ronda/Alta Badia 
Slopes 1,005m to 3,270m
Lifts 179 
Pistes 433km, 38% blue, 53% red, 9% black  
Snowmaking 90% 
Six-day lift pass Dolomiti Superski €294 

best ski resorts in Austria

Best for experts

Alagna 

This picturesque little village – complete with stone church and attractive old wooden farmhouses – in the giant Monterosa ski area has a cult following among powderhounds. Away from the limited local pistes, glorious snowfields provide endless entertainment and tough challenges for experts. In fact, some claim the backcountry terrain here rivals that of Chamonix, in France.

It’s not a place for beginners though, or anyone interested in any form of nightlife: lights out comes almost directly after dinner. But to make the most of the off piste, plenty of sleep is required.

Alagna itself has only 15km of pistes, but it's linked to the more intermediate-minded resorts of Gressoney and Champoluc – all covered on the Monterosa Ski lift pass and offering 200km of pistes of varying difficulties. However, it's best to stay in Alagna for the off piste.

The village is situated at 1,212m from where lifts ascend to a heady 3,275m, starting point for some dramatic freeriding. Expert help is essential to explore this terrain - hire the services of a mountain guide.

Where to stay 

Zimmer Casa Prati is a beautifully restored farmhouse in a prime location just uphill from the main lift. It offers friendly hospitality and comfortable rooms featuring traditional wood and stone. From €58 per night per person b&b, travel not included.

Alternatives

Arabba is on the mainly intermediate Sella Ronda circuit, but is also a convenient base from which to explore the most challenging slopes. The pistes here are some of the steepest in the Dolomites and include some spectacular off-piste routes. Cortina d’Ampezzo also has some challenging black runs, tough couloirs and serious off-piste runs.

Fast facts   

Resort 1,200m 
Monterosa Ski
Slopes 1,200m to 3,275m  
Lifts 45 
Pistes 73km, 17% blue, 72% red, 11% black 
Snowmaking 97%  
Six-day lift pass €222

The best destinations for big ski areas

Best for snow reliability

Cervinia

This is a high-altitude resort with fabulous long runs, and even in the driest Italian winter top-to-bottom snow conditions are virtually guaranteed from December to the end of April. The glacier is also open for summer skiing and snowboarding from June to September.  Plus, there's good grooming and snowmaking on key runs. Cervinia claims 160km of pistes covered on the local lift pass and is also linked by lift to Zermatt in Switzerland. The more expensive International pass covering both resorts claims a mighty 360km although these figures are difficult to verify – German cartographer Christoph Schrahe puts the total at a more sensible-sounding 251km.

Cervinia is somewhere Italy should be proud of. Il Duce, Benito Mussolini, felt exactly the same and decreed in the 1930s that the then embryonic resort should change its name from the Swiss-German-sounding Breuil to Cervinia, to reflect the Italianate glory of the mountain above it. Unfortunately, most of us think of this mountain as the Matterhorn rather than Il Cervino – and there's a less spectacular view of its iconic shape from the Italian side of the peak.

This isn't the prettiest resort in the Alps, with some rather ugly architecture, but its slopes offer a wonderful playground, dictated by the easy gradient of its seemingly never-ending runs. These allow beginners and wobbly intermediates to gain enormous confidence in an extensive high-mountain area.

The 8km Ventina red run, with breathtaking views of 4,000m peaks, descends a mighty 1,833m from the top of Plateau Rosa (3,480m) all the way down to the resort, and if completed without a stop is guaranteed to turn even the strongest legs to spaghetti.

Where to stay 

For authentic mountain hospitality, the four-star Hotel Bucaneve is a standout choice. Staff wearing traditional local dress offer a warm welcome, and the individually-styled bedrooms feature antique furniture. The Bucaneve is centrally located, just a three-minute walk to the nearest lift, and serves good cuisine. From ￡1,191, Crystal Ski.

Alternatives 

Livigno and Passo Tonale are both high enough to ensure that adequate snow cover is virtually guaranteed.

Fast facts  

Resort 2,050m 
Slopes 1,525m to 3,480m 
Lifts 21
Pistes 160km, 30% blue, 59% red, 11% black  
Snowmaking 50%  
Six-day lift pass €242

The best glaciers for summer skiing

Best for charm and romance 

Cortina d'Ampezzo 

Italy’s chicest destination is an ancient mountain town in the Dolomites surrounded by soaring cathedrals of sandstone. The centre is dominated by a green and white bell tower and a glittering confection of grand 19th century mansions.

Despite being variously occupied over the centuries by foreign invaders, including Austria and even the Americans in 1945, Cortina has stubbornly maintained a spiritual independence of its own. While the residents of surrounding towns and villages primarily speak Italian or German, native Cortinese cling to their ancient Ladin language to converse among themselves.

Cortina's 115km of marked slopes (covered on the local lift pass) are divided into separate areas, and best suit intermediates and experts. There is a handful of tricky black runs, plus countless off-piste opportunities in good snow conditions. It's connected via a half-hour bus ride into Sella Ronda circuit (all covered on the Dolomiti Superski pass). The free bus goes to Passo Falzarego and the cable-car up to the 2,788m summit of Lagazuoi. From here there’s a red run down the Hidden Valley to the hamlet of Armentarola and on to San Cassiano and the rest of the circuit.

In Cortina itself, the business of skiing and snowboarding plays second fiddle to the social sport of seeing and being seen outside and inside the elegant boutiques and antique shops lining the Corso Italia, the pedestrianised main street.

Encroaching twilight is the signal for Cortina to come out and play. A colony of voluminous fur coats and designer ski wear gathers noisily in the Piazza Venezia at the start of the evening passeggiata. Much later, the party atmosphere is transferred to intimate wine bars, expensive restaurants, and a smattering of softly-lit nightclubs.

Cortina hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics and its pedigree as a centre for winter sports should be impeccable. However, in recent decades there’s been a lack of investment in the lift system and a consequent failure to attract significant numbers of international visitors, although this is changing – it's now about 50:50 Italian to international visitors according to the resort.

And Cortina is starting to widen its appeal further by developing new experiences; the Col Gallina refuge in Passo Falzarego offers the starlight room, a standalone bedroom sleeping two with walls and ceiling made of glass for an unbeatable stargazing experience. The refuge also offers excursions on fat-tyre bikes, plus snowshoeing excursions to a restored soldiers encampment with a guide in historic uniform. Diehards can choose to spend a night in the barracks.

Where to stay 

The four-star Hotel Ancora, with its traditional wooden balconies and painted frescoes, has been in the same family for four generations, and is in a superb location in the heart of the pedestrian area. It serves some of the finest cuisine in town, while the rooms are tastefully decorated and filled with fine antiques. From ￡985 b&b including car hire from Momentum Ski. 

Alternatives 

The market town of Ortisei in the Val Gardena is packed with charming buildings and churches and surrounded by majestic peaks. Its local slopes offer lots of relaxed cruising. It's linked to the extensive Sella Ronda circuit and also, in the other direction, to the gentle runs of charming Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm), the highest Alpine meadow in Europe. The small, quiet village of San Cassiano in Alta Badia is set in an attractive, tree-lined valley and has a traditional atmosphere.

Fast facts

Resort 1,225m
Slopes 1,225m to 2,930m  
Lifts 34 
Pistes 115km, 50% blue, 35% red, 15% black
Snowmaking 95%
Six-day lift pass Dolomiti Superski €294  

The most glamorous ski resorts on Earth

Best for partying

Sauze d'Oulx 

Sauze d'Oulx had a reputation in the 1970s and 1980s as a sort of Magaluf with moguls, where pub was more important than piste, and many of its strong British youth following never made it on to the snow before midday. These days Sauze has cleaned up its act. The charming Italian village that it once was is now back on form, but fortunately the party atmosphere never went away.

The village has an attractive, cobbled centre, but most of the resort is made up of modern, block-like buildings. Out of the centre, there are quieter, more secluded areas.

Sauze has some of Italy’s best pistes, with undulating terrain linking to the resorts of Sansicario, Sestriere and, across the French border, to Montgenèvre and the rest of the Milky Way – a vast, linked area with 400km of pistes served by 66 lifts. The local slopes are spread out across a wooded mountainside. At the heart of these runs is Sportinia – a mid-mountain collection of restaurants, hotels and a nursery area.

The prices here are roughly a third of those in the premier French resorts of Courchevel and Val d’Isère, so eating out and entertainment needn’t cost a fortune. Après begins with live music at Capanna Mollino in the Sportinia area, and moves on to the Village café-bar on the home run into the resort. Other lively places to try include Ghost bar and Paddy McGinty’s pub.

For a quieter drink, the Caffe della Seggiovia or Enoteca Il Lampione wine bars are popular with both locals and visitors. Later on, the action moves to Moncrons bar and then to Osteria dei Vagabondi, where there's often live music, followed by Bandito nightclub. The Cotton Club attracts an older crowd and hosts jazz nights.

Where to stay 

Village accommodation is not memorable. Grand Hotel Besson, in a quiet position close to the Old Village, is the best four-star. The lifts are a 10 minute walk away, but there’s a free shuttle bus at set times. The modern yet rustic interior of wood and stone has a warm atmosphere and the cuisine is some of the best in town. It has an extensive spa (adults only) with a salt water pool, steam room, sauna, external hot water plunge pool and gym. From ￡759, Inghams.

Alternatives 

Madonna di Campiglio and Cortina d’Ampezzo in the Dolomites offer more sophisticated – and expensive – nightlife.

Fast facts 

Resort 1,510m
Milky Way
Slopes 1,390m to 2,825m 
Lifts 70
Pistes 400km, 25% blue, 55% red, 20% black
Snowmaking 60% 
Six-day lift pass €196 (allows one day in Montgenèvre)

best apres après ski resorts

Best for families

Champoluc 

The 200km Monterosa ski area is one of the most underrated in the Alps and Champoluc is a charming village, with a typically Italian laid-back atmosphere and some decent bars. The scenery is beautiful, there’s a general lack of crowds in the area and traffic is slight.

From the village, a gondola goes up to Crest, where the beginner slopes are situated. From the nearby hamlet of Frachey, served by a free ski bus, a funicular gives more direct access towards Gressoney, Alagna and the rest of the Monterosa area.

Child care is extremely limited in Italy because Italian families tend to bring along granny and grandpa to look after the little ones. Therefore, if travelling with small children it makes sense to choose a destination where a British tour operator provides all the necessary child care.

A big plus point in Champoluc is the presence of a ski school run for the guests of tour operator Ski2. Instructors are a mix of British and English-speaking locals and teach children from four years old. The company also runs its own nursery with British nannies. The Italian ski school Scuola Sci Champoluc has a good reputation for teaching both adults and children, too.

Where to stay

Four-star Relais des Glaciers has a pleasant spa and is located just off the main square, a seven-minute walk from the gondola or reached by free shuttle bus. It has a large outdoor hot tub and friendly staff who provide an early children’s dinner. From ￡1,144 with transfers, but not flights, Ski2.

Free equipment rental is available for children 11 and under and price includes lunch and six-day Monterosa lift pass.

Alternatives 

Esprit Ski offers child care with British nannies at its chalet-hotel in neighbouring Gressoney as well as in its four chalets in Selva. Both resorts are family friendly.

Fast facts

Resort 1,570m 
Monterosa Ski
Slopes 1,200m to 3,275m  
Lifts 45 
Pistes 73km, 17% blue, 72% red, 11% black 
Snowmaking 97%  
Six-day lift pass €222 

Best for terrain parks

Livigno 

Livigno is one of the most inaccessible resorts in Europe. It takes the best part of three hours to get there from Innsbruck, and even longer from Italian hub airports. It’s worth the long journey, though, not only for the quality of its parks but for its low prices and reliable snow cover.

The remote village is strung out along 10km of mountain road that comes to a full stop in winter at 1,816m, close to the Swiss border. Not for nothing is it nicknamed Little Tibet. It's a great beginner and low-intermediate area, with terrain on both the Mottolino and Costaccia/Carosello sides of the valley. The main park is on Mottolino, with kickers to suit all abilities and a super-pipe. There are also rails and an airbag for perfecting tricks.

The second main park is at Carosello, and is geared more towards intermediates. It also has a large airbag, rails, tabletops, plus a boardercross course. Two more parks – Amerikan, near the Carosello gondola, and Del Sole, near the centre of town – are aimed at beginners and children. Cable Park, a fifth park near lift 20 on the Costaccia side, features a variety of rails, boxes and jumps of varying difficulty. A dedicated cable tow pulls riders through the park, making tricks easier. Helmets are compulsory in all parks.

Where to stay 

Alpen Village Hotel has improved its act with extensive renovations in recent years and now represent some of the best value for money in a resort where this is not always a common factor. It is situated within easy reach of the Teola chair and the Mottolino slopes. The hotel is made up  of seven chalet-style buildings that include a pleasant wellness area with pool and saunas. From ￡799, Neilson.

Alternatives 

The huge Snowpark in Bardonecchia was the venue for the snowboarding events at the 2006 Turin Winter Olympics. It has a vertical drop of 1,100m and is divided into five zones based on difficulty of the jumps and features. Also included is the Olympic halfpipe. Cervinia’s Indian park is regarded as one of the best in Italy, and features three courses of kickers, rails and walls for different abilities.

Fast facts

Resort 1,815m
Slopes 1,815m to 2,795m
Lifts 30
Pistes 115km, 38% blue, 47% red, 15% black
Snowmaking 70%
Six-day lift pass €240

The best ski resorts for terrain parks

Best for value

Madesimo 

This is an attractive old village situated above Lake Como, a 2.5-hour drive from Milan and Bergamo. It's much loved by Italian families in search of high-quality slopes at realistic prices.

The runs are mainly intermediate, but there are plenty of challenges for experts, including one of the top 10 classic runs in Europe – the ungroomed Canalone itinerary, which descends 1,000 vertical metres. Madesimo's ski area isn't extensive, but there’s plenty of variety in the terrain. The resort tends to get very busy on high-season weekends, due to its proximity to Milan and Bergamo, but during the week it's blissfully uncrowded outside Italian holiday times.

The village has an impressive range of restaurants, pizzerias and bars. Prices for food and drink are a fraction of what you’d expect to pay in an equivalent French resort. The Dogana Vegia restaurant on the edge of town (about a 25-minute walk) is particularly well regarded. This ancient coaching inn has a roaring log fire and is decorated with a bizarre collection of antiques. It serves tasty fare, and the house wine is very good value.

Where to stay 

Hotel Capriolo is a family-run three-star hotel with lots of atmosphere and fine cuisine. It's also centrally located for easy access to the lifts. From ￡640, including car hire, Momentum Ski.

Alternatives 

Livigno and the low-cost resorts of Folgarida and Marilleva. The latter are purpose-built resorts that link directly into the Madonna di Campiglio ski area in the Brenta Dolomites. They share the slopes, but not the high prices, and attract a more budget-conscious clientele.

Fast facts

Resort 1,500m
Slopes 1,500m to 2,945m  
Lifts 12 
Pistes 60km, 49% blue, 42% red, 9% black  
Snowmaking 65%
Six-day lift pass €192

Best for weekends 

Courmayeur

The essential component for a weekend on the slopes is easy transfers from a choice of airports with lots of flights. Courmayeur lies less than two hours from both Turin and Geneva. This charming, traditional mountaineering village is situated in the lee of Mont Blanc at the Italian end of the Mont Blanc tunnel, with Chamonix in France at the other end.

Well-heeled Italians from Milan and Turin arrive in numbers on Friday evening. They throng the pretty pedestrianised Via Roma, with its smart designer boutiques and comfortable cocktail bars. However, this doesn’t mean that the pistes will be crowded in the morning – fortunately, only a small proportion hit the slopes. They come for the party rather than the pistes.

Restaurants both in town and up on the mountain are of a particularly high standard, and Courmayeur is one of the spiritual homes of the long lunch.

The ski area, which best suits confident intermediates, isn't huge and can easily be covered in a weekend. The off-piste terrain, however, offers a considerable challenge. There are classic off-piste runs from the Cresta d'Arp (2,755m) at the top of the lift network, while the SkyWay Monte Bianco cable car from Entrèves, a five-minute drive from Courmayeur, provides access to some serious descents, including the famous Vallée Blanche. The cable car opened in 2015, replacing the Helbronner cable car and taking skiers up to Punta Helbronner (3,462m) in a rotating cabin which gives 360-degree views.

Where to stay 

The friendly three-star Bouton d’Or b&b has spacious rooms, plenty of parking, and is situated close to the village centre, with its wide range of enticing restaurants. From ￡436 for three nights including car hire, Momentum Ski.

Alternatives 

Purpose-built Sestriere, and its lively neighbour Sauze d’Oulx are both part of the extensive Milky Way ski area, and only a 75-minute drive from Turin airport.

Fast facts

Resort 1,225m
Slopes 1,210m to 2,755m  
Lifts 18 
Pistes 36km, 27% blue, 59% red, 14% black
Snowmaking 70% 
Six-day lift pass €239

Get impartial advice about your next ski holiday from Telegraph experts at the Travel Genius Bar at The Telegraph Ski & Snowboard Show from October 26 – 29 in Battersea Park. Meet resorts representatives from around the world and shop the best deals and packages for the season ahead. Find out more and book tickets.

Ski and Snowboard Select deals