The best things to do in Brighton
More insider guides for planning a trip to Brighton
Brighton was once the seaside bolthole of the Prince Regent – and his legacy is found in Regency architecture, fine parks and bejewelled churches. He also bestowed his libertine attitude on Brightonians. Throughout the city, established museums mix with quirky experiences. Follow Louise Roddon, Telegraph Travel's Brighton expert, as she shares her favourite things to do, from barbecueing local sausages on the beach to floating up to the city's highest viewpoint.
City Centre
Step inside Brighton's most distinctive icon
Prince Regent’s farmhouse turned pleasure palace – the Royal Pavilion – is Brighton’s most distinctive icon. Built between 1787-1823, this dinky mock-Mughal extravaganza is a riot of jelly-mould domes and twiddly minarets. The best, most excessive bits though, are inside: the Music Room’s flying dragons and swirly carpets, and its much-gilded Banqueting Room.
Insider's tip: The nodding Chinese figures just before the entrance to the music room are easily missed, so keep a beady eye out. Likewise look for the ancient wooden loos upstairs alongside the princess-and-the-pea heavily stuffed bed mattresses. The first-floor café’s outside terrace is lovely on a fine day, too.
Contact: 03000 290900; brightonmuseums.org.uk
Opening times: See website
Prices: ££
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Tickle your tastebuds on a food tour
Guzzle your way around the city and discover why Brighton is rivalling London’s indie food scene with Brighton Food Tours. If it’s local, ethically sourced and delicious, then expect it to be part of the V.I.B. (Very Independent Brighton) Food Tour edition. These walks uncover parts of the city many tourists miss: Brighton’s open market, the city’s own sausage company, and a stop at a social enterprise 'supermarket'.
Insider's tip: Yummy tastings and drinks are of course included, but it’s worth bringing a canvas bag as there will be opportunities to shop for foodie products too. There are few pit stops along the way, but Pavilion Gardens opposite the church meeting point has free loos.
Contact: 07904 346603; brightonfoodtours.com
Tour times: Fri-Sat, starting at 11am (finishing at 2pm)
Prices: ££
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Dress up in vintage costumes
Located in part of the Prince Regent’s old stable complex, the Brighton Museum & Art Gallery is a delightfully accessible museum with a permanent collection spanning ancient Egyptian bits and bobs, Brighton seaside memorabilia, and first rate post-war British art. The Art Deco furniture is particularly noteworthy. The 2018 temporary exhibitions include works by Gilbert & George, and John Philpot alongside aquatints by John Piper.
Insider's tip: If you’ve kids in tow there’s plenty to amuse them, including downloadable trails, quizzes, vintage costumes for dressing up, displays of antique toys and a giant ceramic cat at the entrance that speaks to you when fed money.
Contact: 03000 290900; brightonmuseums.org.uk
Opening times: Tues-Sun, 10am-5pm
Prices: £
Amble through the Lanes
Just north of Brighton pier is a warren of atmospheric alleyways and 'twittens' affectionately known as The Lanes. Originally fishermen’s homes and the heart of 18th century Brighthelmstone village, they’re now given over to jewellers, gift shops, pubs and cafés. Some lanes are so narrow you’ll rub shoulders with fellow gawkers, but this historic area is worth an exploration, particularly those alleys that encircle Meeting House Lane.
Insider's tip: Alternatively, join a Blue Badge guide on a Secrets of the Lanes Walking Tour by Only in Brighton for scoops on smugglers, local riots, Victorian sea bathing and where to find Brighton’s oldest pub.
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See the city on two wheels
Whizz along the prom on one of the city’s baby blue community bikes – and with BTN Bike Share hubs dotted throughout the centre, you can also condense your city sightseeing into an enjoyably easy experience. The bikes are pretty foolproof to use: book online, select a rider plan (from 3p a minute), then pick up a smart two-wheeler and set yourselves free.
Insider's tip: On a sunny day, skedaddle eastwards of the Peace Statue along the super-flat designated cycle path by the promenade then past the pier and Kemp Town until you reach the Marina. Then join the Undercliff path to Rottingdean.
Contact: btnbikeshare.com
Prices: £
Discover this timeline of toys
Vintage penny arcades, stuffed bears, antique model trains – what’s not to love about the Brighton Toy and Model Museum? For bored children on rainy days it’s perfect. Don’t be put off by the unprepossessing exterior hidden away beneath the Victorian arches just below Brighton Station. Once inside you’ll find a Tardis world of mechanical toys, vintage Meccano, model ships and wooden puppets.
Insider's tip: The highlight of this tiny museum are the two push-button 1930s tracks carrying antique model trains on snaking town and Sussex countryside rides throughout the space. The museum also has affordable toys and a visitor information centre for Brighton.
Contact: 01273 749494; brightontoymuseum.co.uk
Opening times: Tues-Fri: 10am-5pm. Sat: 11am-5pm
Prices: £
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Browse a street food market – then tuck in
Join Brightonians enjoying lunch alfresco at Street Diner BN1, where emerging and established street food traders serve up truly delicious nosh. Seriously good treats include vats of paella, vegan specialities, generous burritos, gourmet Sussex burgers, and excellent meze courtesy of Sultan Delights. Save room for a slice of homemade cake.
Insider's tip:By about 1pm Brighthelm Gardens gets pretty crowded with hungry lunchers. So try to arrive soon after midday, have a look around to see what's on offer, then join a queue and grab a patch on the lawn.
Opening times: Fridays: 11am-3pm
Prices: £
Seafront
Spend an afternoon on the beach
From Hove’s genteel dog walkers to the brave bare-all naturists at Black Rock – each of the city’s beaches has a highly distinctive character. Just don’t expect sand. West of the pier, artsy stalls and ice cream kiosks occupy the old boat builders’ sheds of the King’s Road Arches – home also to the dinky and fascinating Brighton Fishing Museum.
Insider's tip: Stop at Jack and Linda’s smokehouse kiosk opposite for crab sandwiches and fish soups.
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Have good old-fashioned fun on the pier
Yes, the shiny-shiny one – not the burnt-out pier to the west. Brighton Pier is still the place for shot-in-the-arm seaside fun. Spend a few hours playing the slots, riding the dodgems and scoffing candyfloss and too many doughnuts. Don’t miss the retro-tacky ghost train and vertigo-inducing Air Racer. Sure, you’ll regret that candy floss when you're up in the air, but it's all part of the experience.
Insider's tip: If you haven’t overloaded on sugar, the fish and chips by the entrance from Big Fish Trading Company are really good. And for impulsive romantics the pier is licensed for marriages, so you can say your vows on a rollercoaster. They’ll even provide candyfloss canapés.
Contact: 01273 609361; brightonpier.co.uk
Opening times: Mon-Fri, 11am-7pm; Sat, 10am-8pm; Sun, 10am-7.30pm
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Fire up the barbecue on the beach
A little known fact, this – and even some Brightonians are in the dark about it – but barbecues are actually allowed on Brighton beaches. Track down disposable barbecue sets from the mini supermarkets along North Street and Western Road, then bag some handmade sausages from Brighton Sausage Company (28 Gloucester Road) and a crusty baguette from Real Patisserie on Brighton Station forecourt.
Insider's tip: The main beaches by the pier get packed on a fine day. Locals enjoy their alfresco feasts along the quieter stretches west of the Peace Statue. Find shelter from the wind behind a sea groin or just beneath the promenade wall.
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Get a bird's eye view of the city
Float above the city and seafront in Brighton’s futuristic 'vertical pier' – the British Airways i360. This is the world’s tallest moving observation tower, featuring a glass doughnut-shaped viewing platform that gently glides 138 metres above the city and Sussex coastline. The ride lasts 20 minutes and offers views over gardens, church spires and genteel Regency squares before spiralling towards the Downs and Beachy Head.
Insider's tip: On certain evenings, you can dine in the pod during three 'flights' (one for each course) as Brighton twinkles below. Look for SkyDining on the website for further details.
Contact: 03337 720360; britishairwaysi360.com
Opening times: See website
Prices: ££
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Ride the world's oldest operating electric railway
Volk’s Electric Railway is kitted out with super-handsome carriages and the ride is perfect for little ones, taking you on a slow beach-flanking trundle eastwards that stops just before the Marina. It's said to be the oldest operating electric railway in the world; learn all about it's history in the heritage centre.
Insider's tip: If you want to break the journey, there’s a halfway stop at Yellowave Beach Sports where there is a very pleasant café. You can also try beach volleyball here; otherwise expect a return journey to last around 30 minutes.
Contact:01273 292718; volkselectricrailway.co.uk
Opening times: Mon-Fri 11.15am-5pm; Sat-Sun, 10.15am-5pm
Prices: £
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Spot tropical fish, turtles and sharks
Sea Life Brighton is the world’s oldest aquarium, but that’s not to say it’s stuck in the past. A refresh has breathed new life into those polychrome arches and enormous fish tanks. Come for dazzling tropical fish, a fun glass-bottom boat ride over turtles and sharks, and a new 'Claws' installation featuring Japanese spider crabs and Peacock Mantis Shrimps.
Insider's tip: Turning up on the door can prove very expensive so it pays to plan ahead. Online booking allows you to find reasonable family deals in advance. And budding marine biologists should check out the behind-the-scene tours with the aquarium experts.
Contact: 0871 423 2110; visitsealife.com
Opening times: Daily, 10am-6pm
Prices: ££
Kemp Town
Meander the streets of this cool little neighbourhood
Kemp Town is Brighton’s charmingly lively neighbour – a mixing pot of LGBTQ+ bars, tattoo parlours, seaside cottages and wedding-cake Regency crescents. Browse its streets for bric-a-brac emporia and quirky delis, then meander majestic Sussex Square, Arundel Terrace or Lewes Crescent; you’ll end up longing for one of those period sea-facing properties where post-war luvvies found respite from London's hectic scene.
Insider's tip: Blue plaques abound – on the former homes of Larry Olivier and Joan Plowright in Royal Crescent, Max Miller in neighbouring Burlington Street, and, on Marine Parade and Gardens, Terence Rattigan and Flora Robson. See how many you can spot.
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Play a round of mini-golf
Who needs dull and dated crazy golf when there’s a totally funky neon version on offer? Say hello to Globalls – Brighton’s very own indoor ultraviolet golf course in the Marina: a wacky 12-hole experience that takes mini-golf to a whole new level. Pitch and putt among life size day-glow dinosaurs while soaking up some cool local artwork.
Insider's tip: Buses 7 and 47 run from central Brighton to the Marina. Allow an hour to complete the courses. If you get hungry, the Marina has plenty of food outlets – try Malmaison where you'll also get a deck view of the boats.
Contact: 01273 911510; globalls.co.uk
Opening times: See website
Tickets: £
Hove
Escape the crowds for a more chilled-out vibe
Hove and Brighton became linked in 1997 and despite Hove's newly minted restaurants and celebrity residents, the area retains its stately superiority. Stroll its beachfront and you’ll see what we mean: sweeping clotted-cream-coloured Regency squares, spangly-smart beach huts, well-dressed (well, less grungy) locals walking dinky pooches. It’s all a breath of fresh air when Brighton’s beaches are heaving.
Insider's tip: It it was here, in a suburban garden in Hove, that the first ever blue movie was shot. Get the full story in the cinematic history section of the Hove Museum & Art Gallery.
Day Trips
Lewes
Located about six miles east of Brighton and easily accessible by train, Lewes exudes an upmarket yet artsy charm. It’s hugely telegenic – ripe in fact for a television detective series set among those squiggly cobbled lanes, medieval cottages and antique shops. You can tour the Norman castle, pop into Anne of Cleves’ house, learn about the Protestant martyrs – or save your visit until November 5th, when Lewes’ bonfire societies burn an effigy of the Pope and parade in costume through the streets. Be warned though, the event attracts thousands of visitors.
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Devil’s Dyke
On a bright, breezy day, nothing beats a ride on the open-top 77 bus (stops outside Brighton station) up to Devil’s Dyke – the city’s closest slice of the South Downs National Park. The Dyke itself is a steeply sided gulf gouged from the chalk Downs during the Ice Age. Fantastic for picnics, roly-poly races, bluebell walks in spring, and far-reaching views across the gentle Weald. On a windy day, pack a kite, then wander down to Fulking for a slow pint or two at the Shepherd and Dog – pure pub perfection, with beams, local ales and a beer garden.
The Undercliff Walk and Rottingdean
Stretching three-and-a-half miles from Brighton Marina to Saltdean, The Undercliff Walk was built in the Thirties to provide sea defences for the crumbling chalk cliffs. Today its promenade provides a gorgeous little-known stroll where you can inhale the salty sea air, pause at cliff cafés or pootle among the rock pools at low tide. Stop at Rottingdean for tea – a village that attracted artists and writers in the late 19th century. Rudyard Kipling made his home here on the green and though you can’t tour the house, his flint walled garden is a delight – so too, the village and church.