The best retinol creams for sensitive skin
Controversially, for someone who works in the beauty industry, I’ve never been sold on retinoids (the group of vitamin A-derivatives that includes retinol and retinal). And judging by the amount of messages I get from readers who find retinoids irritate their skin, it’s clear I’m not alone.
You see, most dermatologists consider retinoids the holy grail for midlife skin. They apparently help to smooth out wrinkles, lighten pigmentation and sort out hormonal spots in a matter of days.
Sounds too good to be true? Well, they are fantastic if you have tough, hardy skin that isn’t prone to sensitivity; skin that can handle strong ingredients without irritation. But for everyone else – myself included – retinoids often make my skin dry, flaky and red.
Retinoid 2, ￡75, Skin Rocks
Much to my delight, and hopefully yours, I’ve found one that has made a marked difference to my complexion. It’s the first time in years I’ve happily finished a full bottle of a retinoid to the last drop, without the slightest hint of irritation. Retinoid 2 by Skin Rocks has been a game-changer. (There’s a Retinoid 1, too, from the same brand, which is an even gentler version for complete retinoid beginners.)
‘If you want results from a simple night skincare routine, just wash your face and pop a retinoid on,’ says Caroline Hirons, 55, the leading British skin expert and founder of Skin Rocks. ‘You’ll notice your skin will feel softer and look brighter within a couple of weeks.’
I certainly did. It also worked wonders on an angry hormonal breakout on my skin, which Hirons explains is one of the main reasons younger customers in their 20s and 30s are drawn to retinoids.
Vitamin A Power1 Serum by Sarah Chapman, ￡90, Cult Beauty
A ‘graduation’ of retinoids is really the way to do it, starting with a gentle dose, finishing a tube and then adjusting to a higher dose as your skin gets used to the ingredient. One brand that is excellent for this very reason is Medik8, which has a fantastic range of five retinals that become progressively stronger.
Another gentle retinoid option is the Vitamin A Power 1 Serum by the A-list facialist Sarah Chapman, who sees the likes of Victoria Beckham and Naomi Watts in her Chelsea clinic. Her Vitamin A serum comes after years of research and is particularly brilliant for sensitive skin types. This gentle formula gives really lovely results.
The way I used to use retinoid was by alternating it every other night with something hydrating and soothing (and by all means if you’re a beginner, use it only a couple of times a week to begin with and see how you get on). However, I’ve found with Retinoid 2 that I can use it every night if I apply a soothing cream or oil on top for added hydration. The Essential Moisture Night Cream by No7 is perfectly adequate. I would always spend more on a serum (in this case my retinoid) and go basic with a moisturiser, which essentially serves as a jacket on top of your active skincare.
Essential Moisture Night Cream, ￡9.95, No 7
It goes without saying but if you’ve got very sensitive skin, or a condition such as eczema or psoriasis, you should always be patch testing first and ask a medical professional before using any strong skincare ingredients.
For everyone else, however, when using a product, ‘The only irritation you should get on your skin is from being premenstrual or menopausal,’ explains Hirons, who has been in the beauty industry for almost three decades. ‘Skincare products should not be irritating, and if they are, they’re not right for you.’ Thankfully I’ve finally found one that is.