Big Wave Surfer Kai Lenny Reveals 'Trick' to Surviving 60-Foot Waves
Maui big wave surfer and all-around waterman Kai Lenny is known for charging the most gnarly, terrifying, and huge waves in the world.
While he usually emerges from big waves unscathed, in the last few months we've seen Lenny survive a few wipeouts, including a helmet-cracking pounding that hospitalized him with a concussion.
In an exclusive interview with People Magazine, Lenny opens up about big wave wipeouts, and the "trick" to surviving huge surf.
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People posted the story above, where Lenny shares his survival skills for 60-foot surf.
"In the beginning, I started off super excited for big wave season and by the end I was just happy I made it out alive," he told People.
When it comes to wipeouts, Lenny says it's the solo aspect that makes it unique from anything else.
"It's really interesting because there are very few things in the world where you can't call for help," he says in the interview. "It's just you in that wave and everything else melts away."
He continued:
"If you find yourself in the impact zone, there's that six or seven seconds where there's no one on earth that can help you in that moment and you're truly alone. You're staring that grizzly bear straight in the eyes and there's nothing you can do about it."
Despite the human instinct to "fight and scratch and fight back a little bit," Lenny told the mag, "there's no defeating a power like big waves in the ocean."
"The real trick to surviving these wipeouts without getting injured is to be completely relaxed," he said to People, which is "the exact opposite" of what you want to do in those panic-filled moments.
"It's about really teaching yourself over the years what it takes to necessarily be calm in scary situations," he said.
Click here to read the full story.
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