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Blue Agave review: A bit of a kick and good value on East Fourth in Cleveland

Mark Meszoros, The News-Herald, Willoughby, Ohio
6 min read

May 29—It wouldn't feel right if Cleveland's East Fourth Street weren't home to a reasonably fun Mexican eatery.

Thus it was a bit of a relief that after Zócalo Tequilería ceased operations after nearly a decade and a half of spicy food and salted rims, the circle of restaurant life brought Blue Agave into its space a little more than a year ago.

Owned by a partnership of restauranteurs, Blue Agave is not to be confused with Agave & Rye, a fun Kentucky-based Mexican chain with a cool downtown Cleveland location, as well as a newer spot on Chagrin Boulevard in Woodmere.

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Agave & Rye review: Cleveland eatery impresses by going big with tacos, decor

My friend Cassandra and I visited on a recent Sunday evening before a concert around the corner at House of Blues Cleveland and had a mostly pleasant if far-from-remarkable experience, one characterized by food with a pleasant bit of heat that comes at a decent value.

It appears the restaurant doesn't take reservations, but I was confident we'd quickly be seated because Sunday is not a big dining-out night, and I was correct. We were shown to a small area in the bar area on the ground level, also home to another space. The food emerges from a kitchen on the floor below, which also is home to some dining space.

Although home to the obligatory skull-heavy Mexican folk — we sat only a few feet from a female half-skeleton ... thing, complete with a headdress of colorful flowers, that repeatedly demanded my attention throughout the meal — Blue Agave feels vaguely upscale, which I appreciated. It's all pretty tasteful, including some of the installations downstairs on the way to the restrooms.

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I will note the music in the bar area was just a little loud for my mood at the moment and the temperature just a little toasty, which was increasingly noticeable as we worked on food of varying spice levels.

I was also a little disappointed to find the paper menus we were given weren't quite as extensive as what's online. I don't know if the website is outdated or if the restaurant keeps things a little more basic on Sunday.

There were still plenty of choices — a solid selection of Starters and Street Tacos. However, the Specialty Entrees section was nowhere to be found, which its Melting Chimichanga ($17) the one survivor making it to the small Entrees area of this menu. I was bummed, as the Seafood Relleno ($18) caught my eye earlier at home.

With no calamari-based appetizer on the menu, we swiftly landed on the Momias ($14), bacon-wrapped shrimp served with a spicy chipotle ranch dipping sauce, and the Trio Sampler ($12), consisting of queso, guacamole and salsa along with non-GMO tortilla chilps. (Note that complimentary chips and salsa had not been brought to our table.)

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We also ordered drinks, with margaritas feeling almost as obligatory as all that folk art, the menu boasting more than two dozen Signature versions and five Classic renditions. I love a zesty margarita, so it was the Spicy Cilantro ($14) for me, while Cassandra went with the Pedro Margarita ($18.5), easily the most expensive, no doubt to its use of Don Julio Reposado Tequila along with fresh lime, lemon, orange and a "touch" of agave nectar. She didn't think it was quite worth the higher price tag, while my drink, complete with the salt rim, met my expectations. And know that these are big drinks that easily lasted the meal, although they became watered-down from the melting ice.

The appetizers arrived, and, after one bite, I knew nothing would top that bacon-forward shrimp. So flavorful, so plump and juicy, they were five treats, the last of which we cut in half rather than letting the other have the whole thing.

The chips-and-dips app was less exciting although perfectly fine. Queso never seems worth the calories to me, so after a sample or two of that — it was fine and did nothing to change my mind on that — I moved on. The salsa and guac also were good, not great, but I love even good salsa and, especially, guac, so I ate a fair amount of both.

Even with all the appealing options — the Cochinita Tacos ($16.50), the Carne Asada Tacos ($16.50) and the Tacos Al Pastor ($16.50) to name a few — I just wasn't feeling tacos on this night, so I was happy Cassandra ordered the Tacos La Paz ($17.50), with grilled fish, red cabbage, pico de gallo and a chipotle sauce. (You get a choice of fish or shrimp.)

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I was torn between the Spicy Grilled Burrito ($17) and the Burrito Azteca ($19), both of which sounded so interesting: the former is packed with grilled ribeye or chicken and veggies, which grilled chorizo, melted queso and spicy salsa on top; while the latter boast steak, chicken, shrimp and vegetables inside with green salso, melted cheese and ranchero sauce on top.

I tried to get a nudge in either direction from the server, but she said both are popular. Ultimately, I decided that, unless I made it myself, I may never again have a burrito with both steak and shrimp, so the Azteca won the day.

From a meal-size perspective, Cassandra played it right, as three normal-sized tacos would have been plenty of food given the appetizers at which we'd been picking. And she loved the tacos and their fresh and tasty fish.

I really enjoyed my burrito, too, but the meal — complete with rice and beans on the side — was just so much food. (Just to be clear, that's not a complaint, especially what you get for less than $20 at a time when menu prices can be eye-popping.) Before long, I concluded I would have to fork out the good stuff — the burrito's nicely seasoned steak, shrimp, chicken — and leave most of the rest.

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With a bill totalling less than $100 before tip, the value is there. Sure, you can do better, but not easily and maybe not downtown.

And yet I still wouldn't go out of my way for Blue Agave. If you're near East Fourth, however — perhaps before a show or after a game — it's well worth a visit.

Reviews are based on one anonymous visit to a restaurant.

Blue Agave

2071 E. Fourth St.

Cleveland

216-417-2545

BlueAgaveCleveland.com

Location: The east side of East Fourth, a little north of Prospect Avenue.

Cuisine: Mexican.

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday; 11 a.m. to midnight Friday and Saturday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday.

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Liquor and wine: Full bar with an emphasis on margaritas.

Vegetarian: Several seafood choices, veggie tacos.

Outdoor dining: Yes.

Dress code: Casual

Prices: Mostly moderate, with taco plate mostly a little above $15 and entres $17 to $20.

Value: Good.

Ratings (of five):

Food: 3.5.

Atmosphere: 4.

Service: 3.5.

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