The return of a Noughties style staple
Dust off your cowboy boots and grab a floppy hat: boho fashion is officially back. The most talked-about show of Paris Fashion Week made the case for a return to the mid-Noughties trend, when incoming the creative director Chemena Kamali sent models down the Chloé runway in 1970s inspired looks which exuded boho glamour.
This time round, it’s less “flower child,” more “haute hippie”, with sheer ruffled blouses, leather fringed trousers and nude-hued slip dresses punctuating Chloé’s Autumn/Winter 2024 collection. It’s a mood which has already hit the high street too, with peasant blouses and floaty skirts featuring in the new season ranges arriving now.
This year’s boho is less 20-something Sienna Miller in a black lace mini, coin belt and cropped Uggs traipsing through the mud at Glastonbury, more 40-something Miller in an asymmetric white floaty skirt with wedge heels and a biker jacket looking polished on the front row in Paris.
It was no coincidence that Kamali invited Miller to her debut. The British actress was arguably single-handedly responsible for popularising the boho look in the mid-2000s, taking inspiration herself from the It girls of the Sixties and Seventies, namely Anita Pallenberg, Marianne Faithfull and Talitha Getty. Since the Chloé show, searches on Depop for maxi skirts and dresses have gone up 38 and 42 per cent respectively, while the amount of people looking for fringe, the ultimate boho detail, has skyrocketed 78 per cent.
If you’re unsure how to get the look without ending up in hippie cosplay, then eBay’s director of Pre-loved, Amy Bannerman, a stylist and lover of vintage, has some expert advice. “Sienna has evolved her look in such a cool way, so she is a good reference point on how to wear the trend now,” she says. “Mix some staple modern pieces in with some boho items. For example, suit trousers and trainers with a western fringed suede jacket is a good look, or layer the jacket over an entirely white look to bring it up to date and away from the 1960s. eBay has an amazing selection of western jackets and original 1960s pieces. Pair the unexpected, that’s what makes it cool.”
Accessories are also key for making your boho look right for now. “Look to the trend of quiet luxury and minimalism for the accessorising,” Bannerman advises. “So a more floaty dress or skirt with some really simple sandals or a really structured bag. Also add some tailoring into the mix to sharpen things up, a boxy blazer over a dress will bring you in to 2024.”
The floaty skirt
Sienna Miller and Katie Holmes now, Victoria Beckham then
The long floaty skirt was the hero item of the boho wardrobe back in the mid-Noughties. Worn with insouciant panache, low on the hips, the 2004 version was often tiered with lace detailing, or paisley and patchwork, usually worn with a statement coin belt and a slither of midriff on show.
To make it look modern, think about surprising details such as asymmetrical cuts, bright colours or unusual fabrics – or incorporate more masculine pieces into your outfit to stop it looking overly girly. “I would wear a floaty skirt with a vintage men’s long-sleeved T-shirt and one of my pre-loved Avirex bombers and Salomon trainers,” says Bannerman. “I love incongruous pairings and wearing a mix of men’s and women’s is my comfort zone.”
The best floaty skirts
Crinkle skirt, ￡239, Maje; Printed viscose skirt, ￡195, Ba&sh; Organic cotton skirt, ￡60, Aspiga
The kaftan dress
Sofia Richie now, Rachel Zoe and Nicole Richie then
The word “kaftan” might immediately make your mind leap to “beach”, but these floaty dresses are surprisingly versatile – something that the boho set of the 2000s knew only too well. While back then it was all about adding 1970s inflected accessories, such as aviator sunglasses and beaded necklaces, or Talitha Getty-esque capes, today, it’s more contemporary to lean into quiet luxury, like Sofia Richie Grainge (as well being the daughter of Lionel, the model and social media star is also the younger sister of Noughties boho princess Nicole Richie).
Try an earthy colour palette of coppers, browns and creams, and look for tailoring details like collars, drawstrings and belts, to make the look feel more pulled together. The key is to go clean and minimal with your accessories and beauty looks, too – think slicked back hair and neat gold jewellery. Bare foot is chicest on the beach, but if you’re in the city or the bar, then a wedge is appropriate without feeling like hippie overload.
The best kaftans
Viscose blend dress, ￡285, Rixo; Emporio Sirenuse Printed cotton voile kaftan, ￡325, Net-a-Porter; Cotton kaftan dress, ￡75, Boden
The cowboy boot
Emily Ratajkowski now, Sienna Miller and Mary-Kate Olsen then
Few could have predicted that the cowboy boot would become such an integral part of our wardrobes in 2024. First, we had the renaissance of Western fashion, thanks in no small part to Beyoncé’s new Texas Hold ‘Em song and Cowboy Carter album.
Mary-Kate Olsen and Sienna Miller once made a case for cowboys boots being a one-stop solution for everything from festivals to red carpets. Today, Ganni’s boots have become ubiquitous amongst the style set, who wear them tucked into colourful cords paired with plain tees, or with directional mini-dresses in pastel hues. Just never wear yours with a denim mini or a paisley print maxi – leave that to Miller et al and 2004.
The best cowboy boots
Ganni Leather boots, ￡445, Harvey Nichols; Studded boots, ￡79.99, Zara; Suede boots, ￡329, Penelope Chilvers
The tiered mini skirt
Alicia Vikander now, Sienna Miller then
If you’re not quite ready for short shorts or knickers as outerwear, then might we direct you to the ra-ra skirt. The floaty maxi’s flirty little sister, they are a great way to inject a little fun into your wardrobe. Make them feel fresh by wearing them as part of a co-ord set, as seen here on Alicia Vikander, and toughen them up a little with knee-high boots – particularly handy for keeping a little more covered up until summer arrives. Another way to modernise the look is to choose a surprising print or an asymmetric design, as with these Isabel Marant Etoile and Maje options.
The best ra-ra skirts
Linen skirt, ￡269, Sandro; Cotton eyelet skirt, ￡269, Polo Ralph Lauren; Isabel Marant Etoile Stretch woven skirt, ￡275, Selfridges
The textured waistcoat
Rita Ora now, Mischa Barton then
Variously described as waistcoats, gilets, vests or sleeveless jackets, however you spin it, there’s no denying that these were an all important addition to the boho look – thrown on over a maxi dress or teamed with flares by boho It girls including Mischa Barton (star of The OC, remember her?).
In 2024, it’s all about playing with textures and the crop – think patchwork, quilting and ruffles. Faux fur or teddy bear is a fun option for this transitional weather, but once we’re in the midst of festival season, you can look for lightweight options with embroidery and beading details.
The best textured waistcoats
Faux fur gilet, ￡149, Whistles; Quilted waistcoat, ￡79, Albaray; Denim waistcoat, ￡95, Seventy + Mochi