Bread the focus of conference and fair this week in Skowhegan

Jul. 22—SKOWHEGAN — It is that time of year when hundreds of baking buffs and grain gurus head to Skowhegan to talk all things bread.

The annual Kneading Conference is set to return Thursday and Friday, followed by the Maine Artisan Bread Fair on Saturday.

This year, several downtown businesses plan to host the two-day conference, which was held previously at the Skowhegan State Fairgrounds at 33 Constitution Ave. The bread fair Saturday is to be held at the fairgrounds, as in years past.

"That's a big change and a really exciting one," Tristan Noyes, executive director of the Maine Grain Alliance, which organizes the two events, said. "We made the change because we wanted to highlight all of the incredible organizations and businesses that have supported us so strongly for the last almost two decades now."

The Kneading Conference, now in its 17th year, began in 2007 when a group of community organizers began discussions on how to revitalize local grain economies, Noyes said.

Since then, it has grown to become an event that this year is expected to draw about 250 people from 27 states.

"It really has become a premiere national baking conference and grain gathering," Noyes said.

This year's lineup includes dozens of workshops on topics ranging from oven building and the business of baking to making New York-style bagels "the Maine way" and "Pizza as a Force for Good."

Arturo Enciso, who owns Gusto Bread in Long Beach, California, is scheduled to deliver the keynote address. Enciso makes breads and pan dulces using traditional masa madre, also known as sourdough, according to the conference's program. Food & Wine magazine named Gusto Bread one of the 100 best bakeries in America in 2020.

Enciso is also expected to teach a workshop on the art of nixtamalization, which is the preparation of maize in an alkaline solution, and masa-infused baguette baking.

The conference leads into Saturday's bread fair, scheduled to run from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. at the Skowhegan State Fairgrounds.

The fair, which was first held in 2010, is expected to draw about 3,000 visitors, Noyes said. More than 60 vendors are expected to offer bread, wood-fired pizza, bagels, pastries and other grain-related products. The fair is also expected to feature live music and a children's area.

Attendees to the fair can attend two workshops: One on New York-style bagels, the other on sourdough baking.

Noyes said the conference and fair have put central Maine's grain economy on the map, drawing national attention.

"I think there's a real sense of pride in Somerset County and in Skowhegan and surrounding towns about helping to champion this revival of this new grain economy around bread and beer as well," Noyes said. "There's a lot to be proud of."

Tickets for the conference cost $375, which includes admission to all scheduled events and workshops, two light breakfasts and a locally sourced dinner.

Lunch on Thursday and Friday is available for $15 from The Maine Meal, The Bankery, The Miller's Table at Maine Grains and Joe's Flat Iron Café, all Skowhegan-based businesses.

Admission to the Maine Artisan Bread Fair is free, and parking at the fairgrounds costs $5.

The workshops during the fair require registration and cost $20 to attend.

For more information on the conference and fair, including registration, see kneadingconference.com.

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