Buyers Loved the New Opulence at the Paris Fashion Week Shows, Ending the Quiet Luxury Trend
A new opulence emerged in Paris this season, with Alessandro Michele’s lavish debut at Valentino being the strongest sign yet that quiet luxury is going out with a whisper. It was among the most coveted tickets of the week and didn’t disappoint buyers, who credited the Roman designer’s first show as opening the door to a return to maximalism.
“The collection was a triumphant parade of joyful frills and covetable accessories,” said Nordstrom vice president, fashion director Rickie De Sole.
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Softer, more delicate styles from Chemena Kamali’s dreamy, lace-filled Chloé, and Jonathan Anderson’s new take on florals and hoop skirts at Loewe, added another layer to the delicate femininity on display during fashion week.
“There’s been a recognizable shift in trends this season, as quiet luxury takes a back seat, and a more exuberant and carefree attitude take center stage,” said Holt Renfrew fashion director Joseph Tang.
The Valentino collection, as well as Anthony Vaccarello’s brocades and bohemian glamour at Saint Laurent, “made us realize how much we were missing this enriched aesthetic. It was a welcome and thrilling antidote to the quiet and safer modes we’ve acclimated to,” said Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice president, fashion office.
Items from both collections, from Valentino’s ruffles, turbans and cat minaudière, to suits inspired by the late couturier Yves Saint Laurent, were on buyer’s “must-have” lists.
Lingerie dressing will be a key trend, from garter belts at Balenciaga and sheer lace bloomers at Chloé, to slip dresses at Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu, while Saint Laurent’s Yves-inspired masculine tailoring, along with the suiting at Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham and Sacai, brought balance to the season.
The soft and sun-faded pastels seen in Milan carried over, with muted earth tones and rich burgundy as key colors of the season, with pops of blue from aqua to electric.
Buyers believed that brands were trying to cement their codes and create stronger identities to stand out in a sea of offerings, and houses such as The Row, Schiaparelli, Miu Miu and Gabriela Hearst succeeded.
Budgets are a mixed bag for the coming year, with a slight increase in spend for some retailers, while others remain cautious or are working out consignment deals with brands.
Customers are willing to increase their spend for uniqueness, quality, craftsmanship and “emotional” items, with event dressing an increasing focus for buyers.
“Paris was all about embodying your main character energy,” said Tang. “Personality prevailed this week through the collections, where we are all leaving inspired to get dressed up and embrace spring’s new fashion messages — self-expression wins!”
Below, buyers weigh in on what they want for spring 2025.
Lauren Amos, owner, Ant/dote
Favorite collections: Duran Lantink, Hodakova, Alainpaul. New talent stole the week!
Best show format: This season it felt like there wasn’t a lot of diversity in formats. Most shows seemed like a pretty traditional runway presentation.
Top trends: T-shirts worn off body/reworked, chartreuse, heeled mules, fit and flare mermaid skirts.
Investment piece: Hodakova’s hand-painted coat.
New talent: Niccolò Pasqualetti, Hodakova, Alainpaul.
Impressions of the week: I appreciate young designers for experimenting and being unafraid of new ideas. I hope this diffuses upwards to the larger houses. It’s also really beautiful to see the kids in the street playing with fashion in meaningful ways. There was as much fashion in the streets as the shows. A notable moment was at the Rick Owens show. The crowd was so positive and familial. It was beautiful that he invited the fashion students as a method of inclusivity and investment in fashion’s future.
Kate Benson, buying director, Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Chloé, Valentino.
Best show format: The Balenciaga show took guests to a banquet with a giant dining table forming the runway. Front row guests had a seat at the “table” as models marched down the catwalk. The Alexander McQueen show, located at the école Nationale Supérieure des Beaux-Arts, a prestigious art school in Paris, was a spectacle. The room has a glass ceiling with statues adorning the balcony and dry ice covered the tiled flooring creating the very atmosphere we know and hope to be immersed in with the brand.
Top trends: Paris has continued to deliver on the romanticism we have seen so far on the runway this season. Diaphanous silk at Chloé, silk and organza at Dries Van Noten, chiffon maxidresses at Saint Laurent, and an abundance of ruffles at Valentino floated down the runway, paying homage to brand heritage in their own distinct way. Key, playful silhouettes include the iconic peplum shape and harem pants.
The sunset color palette we saw in Milan carried through into Paris, with Gabriela Hearst taking a more literal approach to the trend with her iconic intarsia knitwear, this time in a matching pant set, and at Isabel Marant where sunset hues were the backdrop to the runway show.
We have loved seeing so much great footwear on the runway, with heels dominating. From lady-like pumps to embroidered mules, and sculptural wedges to minimalist thong sandals, this season is all about individuality.
Investment piece: The dressing gown robe at Saint Laurent. The perfect piece for layering to give the ultimate look of nonchalant luxury.
New talent: Marie Adam-Leenaerdt launched recently at Net-a-porter. We love the brand’s take on exaggerated proportions and mixed materials.
Impressions of the week: I love the feeling of female empowerment. For example, at Saint Laurent where models walked the runway in power suiting, and at Gabriela Hearst where the designer spoke at length about the goddesses that inspired her collection.
Beth Buccini, owner and founder, Kirna Zabête
Favorite collections: Loewe, Sacai, Saint Laurent, Chloé, Gabriela Hearst
Best show format: Gabriela Hearst’s show in the gorgeous backyard of Karl Lagerfeld’s former home with The Lumineers playing was really a highlight. It felt like a powerful fashion show, historical site visit and concert all in one.
Top trends: Lingerie detailing and lots of sheer and flou, pastel hues, leather and crochet, florals — prints are back, and a move away from quiet luxury toward whimsy and femininity.
Investment piece: Loewe flow runner high top, Valentino polka dots, Chloé lingerie top, Sacai leopard prints and stripes, Miu Miu socks with a pump, Dries Van Noten silk camisole and The Row layered T-shirts.
Budgets up or down: Our budgets are up because we’ve opened more doors. We are focused on event dressing, which has been a huge call-out from all our stores. The client is less concerned about price point, and more concerned about finding unique and emotional pieces.
Impressions of the week: The mood of the fashion world seems to be so up-in-the-air these days. All anyone wants to talk about is the designer movement at the big houses and who is staying and who is going. Election years are always times of uncertainty. There was more speculation than I’ve seen in a long time on this trip. We found plenty of beautiful product along the way, but we all count on Paris for both the vision and the strong business. I’m hopeful by next season the mood will be more stable.
Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying and everything else, Ssense
Favorite collections: Miu Miu, The Row, Comme des Gar?ons, Junya Watanabe, Hodakova.
Best show format: The setting and location at Issey Miyake was beautiful. It inspired a sense of Zen amidst the hustle and bustle of fashion week and gave us all a chance to sit back and relax to really enjoy the moment, which was very special. It felt very pure.
And who could forget Miu Miu, made to look like a newspaper printing plant by artist Goshka Macuga. As soon as I stepped into the venue, I knew we were walking into something interesting. I also really enjoyed flipping through “The Truthless Times” newspaper left on our seat as I waited for the show to start.
Top trends: Swimming and surfing inspired elements and the color aqua blue. The sporty swim and surf vibe was seen across a few brands like Miu Miu with its swimwear layered beneath dresses and cardigans, and across some emerging brands like Abra and Julie Kegels. Aqua blue was also a micro-trend across those collections that I’m sure we’ll see more of in the future.
Lace and lingerie-inspired looks — think lots of satin, lace and micro polka dots. It’s been inspiring to see how designers have interpreted the use of lace across their collections to deliver their own take on the classic lace and lingerie combination. For example, the Balenciaga pantaboot and lingerie trompe-l’oeil opening looks. Valentino looks were exceptional, as were Junya Watanabe, Chloé and Dries Van Noten.
Full white looks will be abundant this spring. There’s a sense of purity and lightness from Issey Miyake and Alainpaul. Even Kiko Kostadinov, who usually does a lot of colorblocking, presented a full-white look that was really beautiful.
Investment piece: I’m going against the grain here and speaking from the heart: all I really want to buy right now are elevated pieces that I can wear on a daily basis, so my personal investment for spring will definitely include all of the available colors of brushed cotton Ts from The Row, along with the white oversized shirt. I also have my eyes on the new Miu Miu sneakers that walked the show.
New talent: I’m really happy to see the emerging talent that we’ve recently onboarded to Ssense womenswear are delivering strong collections again this season. For example, Julie Kegels had an incredible show with her California surf inspiration. She recently joined our womenswear roster this fall, and I’m sure our customers will be looking forward to her spring 2025 collection. I also really enjoyed attending Marie Adam-Leenaerdt and Alainpaul.
Impressions of the week: I’m feeling rather poetic. After a few days of rain in Paris, it was refreshing to finally see the light and it’s as though the presentations followed suit. There’s a sense of purity — lots of all-white looks — and a celebration of softness compared to the past season. We’re seeing lots of light and natural looks that feel very wearable. It ended with a beautiful last day of shows in Paris.
Jessica Crawley, head of buying, Ounass at Al Tayer Group
Favorite collections: Valentino, Schiaparelli, Miu Miu, Chloé.
Best show format: Coperni at Disneyland Paris stood out for its whimsical and unexpected setting, combining fashion with fantasy. The iconic backdrop added fun and nostalgia, creating a truly immersive experience.
Top trends: Low waistlines were a key trend, seen at Victoria Beckham, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen and Miu Miu, along with Bermuda shorts from Victoria Beckham, Schiaparelli, Miu Miu, Rabanne and Stella McCartney. Asymmetric hemlines were one of the most prevalent trends throughout PFW, featured at Zimmermann, Chloé, Christopher Esber, Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney and Schiaparelli. Chloé, Zimmermann and Christopher Esber all embraced sheer, fluid fabrics, draping, and billowy details. While earthy tones such as browns, tans, and burgundies carried over from fall 2024, pops of blue and light pink emerged, alongside soft romantic florals. Trenchcoats, sharp tailoring, leather and denim also continued from fall 2024, remaining staples across many collections.
Investment piece: One of the many trenchcoats seen throughout PFW — a standout staple for the season.
Budgets up or down: Sales are strong, we are continuing to push budgets.
New talent: Not exactly new to the scene, but Christopher Esber has cemented his place as one of fashion’s most exciting emerging talents. He is a designer to watch as he consistently pushes creative boundaries and delivers something uniquely fresh each season.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week felt like a season of bold contrasts, with many collections blending structured tailoring with soft, fluid fabrics, and a mix of modern and nostalgic elements. While quiet luxury remained prevalent, there was a noticeable shift toward more expressive, statement-driven pieces.
Jennifer Cuvillier, fashion director, Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Chloé, Loewe, Victoria Beckham, Sacai, Rabanne, Acne, The Row, Cecilie Bahnsen.
Best show format: It is always interesting to experience new locations for shows. Victoria Beckham created a magical moment with a location outside of Paris, Chateau de Bagatelle, where we are not used to going for fashion shows. Nightlights and a castle background created a unique moment.
Top trends: New body architecture and volume as seen at Victoria Beckham, Loewe, Chloé and Acne; summer denim and leather; men’s-inspired soft tailoring; lingerie inspiration; sheer and transparency; black-and-white; yellow and sorbets colors; plain colors versus prints; maxi ruffles to create volume; and flat shoes and sneakers.
Investment piece: Oversized shoulders on jackets, men’s tailored pants, shorts, summer knits and leather pieces.
New talent: We have found many international new talents who are not necessarily doing runway shows but just presenting here, as Paris is a key city regarding the concentration of worldwide talents.
Impressions of the week: It’s been a very dynamic and creative week.
Laura Darmon, head of buying and business development, ENG
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Hodakova, Didu.
Top trends: Sophisticated tailoring and masculine silhouettes on women. The trench is back and in many different shapes and colors. Light cotton pieces, miniskirts, smart crewnecks.
Investment piece: Mostly light fabric pieces with nice patterns as the delivery window for buying is mainly at the end of March, when the climate will be quite warm.
Budgets up or down: Up. We’re focused on discovering what’s next for our audience and offering special exclusives that will only be available in our retail spaces.
New talent: We’re starting with Hodakova this season, and I’m really excited about it. All In is a brand I’ve been following since its inception, but this season it feels ready to enter our market.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris
Favorite collections: Loewe, Saint Laurent, Sacai, Chloé, Zimmermann, Miu Miu.
Best show format: Carven’s show was held in Madame Carven’s restored apartment, as if preserved in its original 1950s state. The experience was a journey through time, highlighted by intricate woodwork details in the cupboards, an antique bathroom, and a charming Parisian kitchen. Victoria Beckham’s venue at Chateau de Bagatelle in the Bois de Boulogne was reminiscent of a mysterious night, illuminated by candlelight, creating a mystic atmosphere.
Top trends: The era of quiet luxury is behind us, evolving into a more sophisticated silhouette. Brand identities have become more distinct, with many designers diving deep into their archives to create unique and individualized collections. A continuation of the fall 2024 season was evident, with almost every show featuring evening looks dominated by sheerness, crystals and glitter.
In contrast, this feminine energy is balanced by masculine tailoring, celebrating free and independent women. The “working girl” trend is making a notable comeback, as seen on the runways of Stella McCartney, Victoria Beckham and Sacai.
Investment piece: A meeting of coincidence and reality: trenchcoats, raincoats and parkas were prominent in many shows, establishing themselves as the key outerwear pieces of the season. These versatile items can be effortlessly paired with slipdresses in sunset palette tones. In terms of tailoring, slouchy tailored pants combined with a strong-shouldered jacket are essential. A high-waisted flared jean with a chiffon blush blouse is another must-have look.
New talent: Litkovska’s collection captures the idea of harvesting the fruits of past work while looking ahead to its evolution. The setting at L’éclaireur, styled like a fruit market, along with live music, created an atmosphere that felt both intimate and symbolic.
Christopher Esber, the latest ANDAM winner, delivered a collection defined by chic, softly tailored silhouettes and a relaxed, modern glamour. Mixing influences from different decades, he balanced minimalism with playful details, such as resin-dipped waistbands, showcasing his evolving yet refined aesthetic.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week, despite the rain, was an unstoppable force of creativity and energy. With such a diverse range of talent on the Paris lineup, it struck a perfect balance between iconic fashion houses and emerging designers.
Rickie De Sole, vice president, fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Chloé, Courrèges, Valentino, Saint Laurent, Undercover, Miu Miu.
Best show format: The misty set for Seán McGirr’s spellbinding show [for Alexander McQueen] was a highlight of the week. The Courrèges circular layout evoked infinite contemplation. Paloma Wool incorporated an audio installation, showcasing the intricate details and sounds of the collection, bringing the brand’s organic ethos to life. And finally, nothing matches the showmanship of Christian Louboutin!
Top trends: A strong sense of individualism prevailed this week. Some of the most memorable shows embraced a playful spirit with collections born from self-expression and creative evocation rather than a specific (or through-line) trend. Big shoulders — peaked, rounded, and sharp were all in the mix — made a bold statement on the runways, offering a powerful silhouette that commands attention and exudes confidence. The pastel color palette, reminiscent of delightful sherbet hues, brought a gentle warmth to the collections, suggesting a soft yet vibrant approach to the coming seasons. Light outerwear emerged as the perfect pairing for dressy ensembles, providing a balance between casual comfort and refined elegance. Functional yet fashionable, bags for work showcased by Stella McCartney, Balenciaga and Miu Miu to name a few, married practicality with style, signaling a smart and chic approach to professional accessories.
New talent: The Belgium-based Julie Kegels is new to Nordstrom and one to watch. A fantastic collection that married bourgeois style with California surfer vibes.
Impressions of the week: Paris delivered a solid fashion week; the atmosphere was charged with the prospect of new beginnings. While there’s a palpable anticipation for the new creative directions, the week brimmed with optimism and a sense of wonder for the future. It was particularly invigorating to witness Alessandro’s debut at Valentino, where he infused the runway with his signature exuberant opulence.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office, director of women’s fashion and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Chloé, Saint Laurent, Comme des Gar?ons, Valentino, Akris, Loewe, Schiaparelli, Chanel, Rick Owens
Best show format: The Louboutin performance experience will never be forgotten! How often are we treated to synchronized swimming during Paris Fashion Week — in Louboutin heels no less? It was Busby Berkeley meets Esther Williams meets Christian Louboutin.
Alessandro Michele did a deep dive on the Valentino archives and came up with a joyous feast for the senses. The set experience was a standout too, a dream like home with ghostly draped furnishings and hauntingly beautiful music, coaxing us to “remember to smile.” And that was exactly what happened!
Loewe was unforgettable. Few designers have played with the idea of clothing caught in motion. It was riveting. Jonathan Anderson is a poetic and artistic designer which elevates the work to being both highly collectible and desirable.
Miu Miu wrapped the week in Paris with a derring-do mash up of sportif couture — utterly unique and playful! We loved it.
Top trends: Lightness and transparency and movement. Utilitarian wear. Body beautiful dressing, including lingerie, motifs, slip dressing, hourglass shapes and delicate soft colors. Repurposed assemblage constructions. The emergence of the skirt as a pivotal wardrobe starter. Softened bags, and the ever-present flat or mid-heel shoe.
Impressions of the week: Don’t shhhush Paris! Quiet luxury is fast fading into the rearview! Paris has been all about amplification. Amplifying house codes to the nth degree. Chloé was very Chloé. Saint Laurent was very Yves. Comme des Gar?ons was pure CDG at its best. Designers mined their own codes and archives and amplified them without apologies. The opulent brocades at YSL and the fanciful collage of a collection at the new Valentino made us realize how much we were missing this enriched aesthetic.
April Hennig, chief merchant, Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Valentino, Chloé, Gabriela Hearst, Miu Miu, The Row.
Best show format: Louboutin’s LaChapelle pool party — complete with a synchronized, stiletto-shod performance by the Olympic team — was the best kind of spectacle. Gabriela Hearst treated us to a live show by The Lumineers which set exactly the right mood. The award for most impressive setting goes to Victoria Beckham, with a candlelit chateau on the outskirts of the city. And of course, in terms of buzz generation, there’s Coperni’s Disneyland takeover.
Top trends: The tension between day and evening we saw in the other cities continued in Paris as designers proposed new individualized approaches to getting dressed. The utility outerwear trend is still going strong — standouts included the puff-sleeve, swing-back jackets at Chloé, the oversized versions at Balenciaga and the sportier silhouettes at Miu Miu and Christopher Esber. We’re also seeing a lot of these pieces paired unexpectedly with more bohemian looks like at Chloé and Zimmermann. Color palettes are leaning more muted: earth tones at Victoria Beckham and Johanna Ortiz; futuristic pastels mixed with metallics at Rabanne, and sun-faded pastels at Zimmermann and Chloé; and gray-leaning neutrals at Christopher Esber and The Row. Lingerie dressing ranged from garter belts at Balenciaga, sheer lace bloomers at Chloé, and slipdresses and skirts at Dries Van Noten.
Investment piece: The jelly thong sandals and mini bracelet bags at Chloé. The Row’s new brushed cotton T-shirts that feel as soft as the finest cashmere, and their silk totes. Balenciaga’s new top-handle [bag] the Nano. Instant collector’s item: Valentino’s cat minaudière.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are up — we are optimistic about the strength of our current business and the compelling offerings we saw this market.
New talent: Marie Adam-Leenaerdt’s show was a compelling evolution for the emerging talent. Paris is a hotbed for new talent, and the place emerging brands flock to from all over the world.
Impressions of the week: One week is hardly enough time to see everything. This was a strong week with compelling product that will help sustain the positive trend in our business.
Jodi Kahn, vice president luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Chloé, Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Loewe, Valentino.
Best show format: Christian Louboutin featured the French artistic swimming team, and a performance artistically directed by David LaChapelle that was a true expression of creativity! What a treat to feel like we were almost immersed in the performance. It was the perfect debut for the new Miss Z pump with their everlasting red sole!
Top trends: Soft dusty pastel colors continue from Milan, as seen at Chloé, Stella McCartney and Rabanne. Sheerness and ephemeral fabrics like lace, silk, organza added a lightness at Chloé, Loewe and Akris, and a softness when layered at The Row. A hyper-femininity stood out via sculpted shapes and corsetry at Schiaparelli and Mugler, and slip dressing/lingerie details at Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent and Valentino. Fringe continues to be a key detail, perhaps an encouragement for us to create movement in these pieces! Most loved at Dior, Gabriela Hearst and Giambattista Valli.
Investment piece: With some of the biggest names eschewing trends in favor of creating for lasting creative impact, it’s all about the future collectible items for fashion enthusiasts such as a frothy ruffled dress or embroidered jacket from Valentino or the dramatic curve-enhancing denim from Schiaparelli. The Miu Miu clog will be a spring obsession and become a future collectible.
New talent: Tailoring, craft and the dark romance of Alexander McQueen looked promising through the lens of Seán McGirr, his second outing for the brand. It was powerful to see the Lee McQueen influence in such a beautiful collection, the detail in the dresses and the tailoring has set this season up for success for both an existing and a new McQueen client.
Impressions of the week: Paris fuels the desire and excitement to get dressed again! Effort and opulence were top of mind, as well as the quest to feel good about what you’re putting on. Designers were less focused on special occasion wear but instead the joy in putting together outfits on a daily basis. While major players showed their strength during this PFW, it was also exciting to see Gabriela Hearst and Ganni have Paris debuts, with each female designer adding their important voice to the conversation. In a time that can feel like constant transition, we loved to see the fashion community support each other. Dries Van Noten sitting front row to watch his team’s collection leading the brand forward and Giancarlo Giammetti FaceTiming Mr. Valentino from the first Valentino finale with Alessandro Michele at the helm. Hats off to Rick Owens for showing an incredibly diverse cast made up of students and faculty from the fashion schools in Paris.
Richard Johnson, chief commercial officer, Mytheresa
Favorite collection: Saint Laurent.
Best show format: Valentino’s presentation was a masterstroke — an impeccable setting for Alessandro’s debut collection. The show evoked an ethereal, almost mystical atmosphere, reminiscent of a grand, opulent estate long forgotten. With cracked mirror floors, dust-covered furniture and dim lighting, it was a scene steeped in nostalgic decadence. The location perfectly complemented the collection, which was rich in intricate details, sumptuous textures, layered fabrics and vibrant colors. I am eagerly awaiting a closer look at this collection in the showroom.
Top trends: Sharp, structured tailoring; sheer fabrics continue to dominate across categories, from tops and dresses to pants and skirts, whether semi-sheer, fully sheer, or printed sheer; lingerie-inspired pieces: bodysuits, corsetry; embroidery, embellishments, and textured fabrics; polka dots as a statement print; bohemian influences.
Investment piece: A Saint Laurent suit: timeless and effortlessly chic; one of Loewe’s sheer crinoline dresses, perfect for a standout summer event next year; Valentino’s ruffles — ideal for any glamorous soirée.
Budgets up or down: We are forecasting sales growth in the upcoming season.
New talent: Niccolò Pasqualetti, a 2024 LVMH Prize finalist, caught my eye with his mastery of sheer fabrics, fluid draping, and intricate textures and embroideries. Duran Lantink is another talent to watch, with an exciting evolution in his recent work.
Impressions of the week: The week felt dynamic and full of energy, with exceptional collections and celebratory moments from fashion giants like Valentino, Saint Laurent, Loewe and Chloé. It’s exciting to witness new chapters for brands such as Dries Van Noten, as he moves into a new phase, and Valentino, which presented a stunning debut collection. Meanwhile, Alexander McQueen and Chloé are gaining momentum in their second seasons, with Chloé in particular continuing to resonate strongly with its core clientele. Jonathan Anderson’s 10th anniversary at Loewe was a significant milestone, and Stella McCartney delivered a collection that felt both wearable and rich in detail. Gabriela Hearst’s return to Paris also stood out. All in all, it was a week brimming with creativity and strength across the board.
Laura Larbalestier, group fashion director, Harvey Nichols
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Loewe, Chloé, The Row.
Best show format: Loewe for the perfect execution, Carven for the intimate feeling and the Margiela film for highlighting the process and the work behind the last couture show.
New talent: Christen, although the brand isn’t ready to wholesale. The integrity of the product and the intent to work without seasons and across product categories is making the designer Nina Christen one to watch. It was one of the most inspiring conversations of the week.
Top trends: Bold embroidery, lace details, organza, mint.
Investment piece: The canvas Margaux bag from The Row.
Elizabeth & Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s New York and the Hamptons
Favorite collections: Lanvin, Stephane Rolland, Victoria Beckham, Georges Hobeika.
Best show format: The return of Chanel to the Grand Palais.
Top trends: This season’s top trends reveal a striking contrast between minimalism and vintage collections. Key elements include Madonna-inspired pieces that bring a bold, edgy flair alongside playful fringe details that add movement and texture. The new minimalism shines with luxurious touches like gold accents and intricate lace, reminiscent of vintage Valentino. Additionally, angelic transparency in dresses creates an ethereal quality, often juxtaposed with oversized trousers for a modern twist on proportions. This blend of styles invites a fresh and creative approach to fashion, balancing playful and sophisticated elements seamlessly.
Investment piece: This season’s investment pieces include leather gloves, harem pants and structured trousers paired with off-the-shoulder jackets. These items highlight the sensuality of the female form through their elegant flow and drapery, showcasing tailored designs that combine comfort with sophistication.
New talent: Peter Copping for Lanvin.
Impressions of the week: Although the weather in Paris wasn’t ideal, it gave us buyers the chance to wear our jackets and scarves earlier than usual, which we enjoyed! We can shop and prepare for spring while staying mindful of current events, as we remain hopeful for new beginnings in light of the world around us.
Janelle Lloyd, ready-to-wear fashion director, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Valentino, Chloé.
Best show format: Victoria Beckham always knows how to set a tone. While I’m typically enamored with Parisian interiors, a tented affair on the grounds of Chateau de Bagatelle complete with cocktails and candlelight made for an atmospheric, alluring evening of fashion.
Top trends: Strong shoulders and sheer elements continue to reign. Daytime shimmer and denim-on-denim styles peppered the collections, while shades of green, yellow and chocolate brown loomed large. Bohemian beauties walked the runways at Chloé, Zimmermann, Saint Laurent, Isabel Marant and Gabriela Hearst.
Investment piece: A double-breasted suit from Saint Laurent.
New talent: Niccolò Pasqualetti’s wearable collection was a welcome take on classic wardrobing. His mix of fabrications and relaxed silhouettes add a subtle edge to your current staples.
Simon Longland, buying director of fashion, Harrods
Favorite collections: Valentino, Schiaparelli, Chloé, Saint Laurent.
Best show format: Valentino’s presentation was characterized by an almost ethereal staging, reminiscent of Miss Havisham from Charles Dickens’ “Great Expectations.” The delicate and haunting atmosphere evoked the faded grandeur and poignant nostalgia associated with the character, creating a unique and memorable aesthetic. McQueen was stunning with its picturesque setting, further accentuated by wisps of smoke and the gentle play of beautiful lighting creating an enchanting ambiance.
Top trends: Corset detailing was noted across many collections including from designers such as Schiaparelli, McQueen and Stella McCartney, adding a sophisticated and structured element to garments. We saw a plethora of oversized tailoring. Wide trousers and even wider jackets were notably present across various collections, adding a relaxed yet stylish aesthetic. Transparency was key, with the use of sheer and see-through fabrics, lending an alluring and refined quality to looks. We saw the return of florals, even from brands that traditionally would not embrace this print, breathing new life into their collections with bold and unexpected floral patterns. Statement-making and bold jewelry pieces made an impact, the perfect trend to allow individuals to express their uniqueness and infuse glamour into their attire. A resurgence of dressing up, with a renewed emphasis on dresses as a fundamental wardrobe choice, catering to both casual and formal occasions.
Investment piece: Schiaparelli’s “Future Vintage.” The collection name says it all. The collection embodied the timeless allure and forward-thinking design of Schiaparelli’s creations. The pieces were not only a fashion statement, but also a potential investment in wearable art. Saint Laurent’s collection featured two key investment pieces for me. The lavish ‘80’s trophy jacket, exuding opulence and glamour, and the Yves Saint Laurent inspired suit, capturing the essence of the iconic designer’s timeless and sophisticated style.
Impressions of the week: This week has been truly remarkable. We’ve seen some magical debut performances. Additionally, the sophomore shows have been incredibly strong, and established designers have presented exceptional collections that have truly made a lasting impression.
Alix Morabito, general buying and merchandising director for womenswear, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Miu Miu, Saint Laurent, Loewe, Valentino.
Best show format: The contemporary installation by Goshka Macuga at Miu Miu, as an allegory to the printing factories, brings back the value of the newspaper in an excessively digital world: “endings unending as future moves to past.” Valentino and its “vacated” house with furniture covered by white sheets and the broken mirror floor done by the artist Alfredo Pirri. It took us out of time in an undefined country and [engaged] the brand in a collective imaginary. Carven’s historical building was the perfect location to show the work of Louise Trotter that took over the brand DNA, its lightness, elegance and unconventional effortlessness.
Top trends: Delicate femininity through fluidity, transparency, lingerie details, flower prints, bodysuits, blush and other pastel colors. The long ’70s silhouette and details, through androgynous or bohemian silhouettes, summer checks and other geometrical patterns, denim and clogs. The idea of comfort dressing through jersey, sport details and accessories, such as the return of sneakers, technical outwear, stripes and saturated color flashes, such as red, green, electric blue and purple. A baroque aesthetic with lace, brocade, satin, embellishments, feathers and rich “alcoholic” colors.
Investment piece: Layering/lingerie tops and knits, flower print dress, checks and stripes, pleated/kilt skirts, lace accessories — such as socks and tights — and ready-to-wear pieces, leather blousons and brocade vests.
New talent: Already three seasons ago, we noticed young upcoming designers such as Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, Alain Paul and Duran Lantink. This season their proposals are even stronger and are defining who they are as designers.
Impressions of the week: This season it’s all about contrasts — between minimalism and Baroque, power dressing and a sense of fragility and delicateness, dark and wintery collections and pastel summer ones, and very commercial approaches and more creative and storytelling ones.
Bosse Myhr, director of menswear and womenswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Loewe, Sacai, Dries Van Noten, Chloé.
Best show format: Dior’s show, which had live archery on display alongside a beautiful spring summer collection was a show highlight. The Comme des Gar?ons show was a beautiful moment where an amazing collection was presented to a small audience and the mannequins facing each other on the runway — creat[ed] an exhilarating show.
Top trends: Light outerwear for spring is a top trend that we observed. The very cold and rainy fashion week in Paris this time was a fitting place for it too. A key color, burgundy was present more on the runway alongside more muted tones.
Investment piece: Something from the first Valentino collection is surely going to be a collectible, wearable investment piece. The collection offering it all — super desirable bags and shoes and the RTW collection to match.
Miu Miu had a lot of great items on the runway, a lot of which can be worn by men as well — Willem Dafoe, who closed the show, being a great example of how to wear the label. The brand continuing down an amazing trajectory overall.
New talent: Paris is the place where we discover brands from all over the world. One notable discovery for us next season is We11done from Korea. The collection being great and combining commercial items with show looks and being overall something we are excited to launch.
Roopal Patel, senior vice president and fashion director, Saks
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Loewe, Chloé, Schiaparelli, Valentino, Balmain, Sacai.
Best show format: Christian Louboutin and David LaChapelle’s “Paris is Louboutining” show at Piscine Molitor with the French Olympic artistic swimming team, fresh off of the Olympics, was magnifique. It was pure fantasy, delight and creative artistry in showcasing his iconic red sole stiletto in the pool with synchronized swimmers. Saint Laurent’s scene at Rue de Bellechasse with the open air dome complemented by the dark cloudy night made for a sultry backdrop for this 100 percent pure Saint Laurent collection.
Top trends: Bohemian glamour, lace, florals, ruffles, fringe, feathers, sheer transparency, corsets and attention to the waist with peplums, lingerie details, cutouts, power suiting and the bold shoulder, as well as sport influences, bodysuits, maximalism, surrealism, volume, embellishment, embroidery and glamorous evening returns to the runways from cocktail to full evening.
Investment piece: One of Saint Laurent’s power suits inspired by Yves Saint Laurent’s impeccable style, the aviator bomber and the long gypsy skirt. Loewe’s floral printed volume chiffon hoop gowns and the new Fluo high tops are both must-haves. The peach lace cami and lace harem pants at Chloé, the bohemian flowy gowns and jelly sandals are perfect all summer long.
Impressions of the week: Fresh off the buzz and energy from the Olympics, Paris Fashion Week delivered a spectacular lineup to set the spring collections in full motion. The iconic houses are looking back to the original codes that they were built on, and moving them forward for the next generation. The designers are not chasing trends, but rather honoring what their brand identities are known for and doing what they do best to delight and entice customers. We saw this at Saint Laurent, Chloé, Schiaparelli and Balmain.
Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Chloé, Valentino. Cecilie Bahnsen x North Face is the coolest capsule of the season.
Best show format: Loewe was the most emotional show; once again Jonathan mastered the divine combination between art, music and nature, through a very strong collection. The final standing ovation was well deserved for 10 years of making us dream.
Victoria Beckham venue at the Bagatelle castle was mystically romantic, unveiling a very sculptural collection. Courrèges offered the most artistic set: magnetic waves in a central water hole, flowing with a metallic sound — major!
Top trends : The spotlight is on the ready-to-wear. Bags are less present (The Row, Saint Laurent) or to highlight and complete the silhouette (Loewe, Victoria Beckham) or worn as pouches (Miu Miu). However, the silhouettes are full of accessories (hair accessories, hats, ties, bracelets). The attention to styling and layering was very present (Saint Laurent, Rabanne, Dries Van Noten, Chloé, Miu Miu) and it required different items to make it right, to obtain the perfect balance. “Intellectual” is a major trend, it started with Miu Miu last season and it’s here to stay. Eyeglasses like librarian, shirts, suiting, minidresses, the whole wardrobe to read books and write a biography. The dialogue between masculine and feminine was one of the most present trends, alternating romantic flower prints and baby-doll apparel as seen at Chloé, Loewe, Acne, Dries Van Noten; and tomboy to mannish attitude and clothes such as Saint Laurent and Loewe. Lace and transparency are still everywhere, giving an ethereal sensuality at Vaillant, Courrèges, Christopher Esber, Victoria Beckham, Valentino, Balenciaga. Faded colors are giving a very optimistic vibe with a vintage nostalgia seen at Isabel Marant, Chloé and Zimmermann.
Investment piece: A classic trench or with a twist, such as Courrèges, Dries Van Noten, Victoria Beckham or in leather such as The Row. A pair of lace panties from Chloé. The perfect suit, as seen at Saint Laurent, Valentino, Esber and Victoria Beckham. A tie from Saint Laurent. The new souple puzzle bag from Loewe. Flowers sneakers from Cecilie Bahnsen x North Face. Pool slides from The Row or flip-flops from Miu Miu. A perfect men’s white shirt or its feminine version as a white ruffle blouse. A turban from Valentino. Lace and/or colored tights. Bangle bracelets as seen at Saint Laurent and Isabel Marant.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are flat with a buffer for new talent scouting.
New talent: Rescha by Charlotte Chowdhury is to me an important new name in the fashion scene and culture. Her approach of the traditional Indian vestiaire is modern and refined. The dialogue between crafted embroidery and the Puma collab was the perfect balance of coolness and sophistication.
Impressions of the week: Paris was very focused, almost studious. Paying attention to each show, details, music, lineup made me want to understand the inspirations and the thinking process behind each collection even more. The global trend is very intellectual and more about a non-transactional approach — making sense and offering substantial collections and meanings have become central. It was a very good week of fashion and cultural dynamic.
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Schiaparelli, Miu Miu, Loewe.
Best show format: Christian Louboutin’s “Paris is Louboutining” presentation showed at the Art Deco pool designed by Lucien Pollet was a one-of-a-kind experience. Artistically directed by David LaChapelle and performed by the French Olympic artistic swimming team entirely in the new Miss Z stiletto, the presentation made you want to wear shoes in a setting where you wouldn’t typically consider wearing footwear.
Top trends: Sheer, lace, and transparency prevailed as a must-have trend with an emphasis on feminine frills and a rebellious bohemian attitude. We saw this best from Chloé, Issey Miyake and Zimmermann. The retro-inspired boho trend was further reflected through eclectic prints, bright bold colors and brocades from Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten and Valentino. Designers have also pushed boundaries in reinterpreting wardrobe essentials through innovated shapes and silhouettes. Nuanced tailoring and enveloping silhouettes were seen at Alexander McQueen, Rabanne and Courrèges.
Investment piece: From the jelly sandals at Chloé, to the updated bags from Balenciaga — there was no shortage of accessories to covet this season. In ready-to-wear, the effortless coats at The Row, updated takes on tailoring from Loewe, and statement shirts and dresses from Dries Van Noten.
Impressions of the week: While the weather may have been rainy and cold, the collections this spring inspired us to get dressed up for warmer days ahead. Paris was all about embodying your main character energy and Alessandro Michele’s debut show for Valentino was at the forefront of this empowered way of dressing.
Eric Young, owner, Le Monde De SHC
Favorite collections: Peter Do, Dries Van Noten.
Best show format: Peter Do. Located at the Jimi Asian Art Museum, the show followed the designer’s constant theme of identity recognition, with models and performers weaving in and out of ancient Asian sculptures, making for a unique visual experience.
Top trends: Feminine femininity. After a long period of political correctness, designers seem to be trying to express a more feminine, soft and romantic image at the same time. The variety of flowing shapes and the abundance of ruffles is definitely a strong new trend. The story is in the details [with] knit cardigans that originally required only six buttons now requiring at least 20. It may be a good idea to show a sense of quality with fine details, but there is also a risk that consumers will find it cumbersome and complicated. Fashioning traditional lingerie [as outerwear]. Many brands, including Balenciaga, have shown the drive to forward lingerie as an outer part of fashion. The ways of expression vary, but they all coincide in finding new excitement in this traditional supporting role.
Investment piece: Dresses that look very traditional and even a bit conservative. Anything with ruffles or fringes; high-quality denim.
Budgets up or down: Budget is down for buying, but we are working with more brands on a consignment basis.
Impressions of the week: With the current global climate, it’s possible that designers want their work to look lighter. I think that’s fine in itself, it’s just that fashion consumers are currently gravitating towards either the super-luxury brands, enjoying their brand appeal, customer service experience, etc., or niche brands with high quality fabrics and craftsmanship, or maybe the designs are just unique enough to have a point of view (either crazy or classy).
Will Zhang, founder, SND
Favorite collection: Carven.
Best show format: At Acne Studios’ show, artist Jonathan Lyndon Chase’s work was a standout feature. His art installation, integrated with the fashion, added layers and visual impact to the show. Chase’s installation wasn’t just a backdrop; it worked harmoniously with the fashion designs, creating an artistic expression. By incorporating his artwork into the show, Acne Studios crafted an immersive experience, allowing the audience to appreciate both fashion and art. This cross-disciplinary collaboration undoubtedly added a new dimension to fashion week, highlighting the deep connection between fashion and art.
Top trends: During this fashion week’s ordering process, many brands embraced organza fabrics, showcasing lightness and transparency. Additionally, various styles of polo pieces have been released and are expected to lead the trend in the next season. Despite it being spring/summer, many brands are still developing bomber jackets, aiming to bring warmth to early spring while keeping pace with the new season’s fashion rhythm.
Investment piece: This season, Dries Van Noten’s look 38 and look 49, Ann Demeulemeester’s look 26 and look 39, and Acne Studios’ look 20 and look 32 are all worth investing in. They reflect the designers’ unique perspectives and craftsmanship.
Budgets up or down: Given the current market conditions, we are still taking a conservative approach. Despite many outstanding designs, we’ve slightly lowered the budget to adapt to market changes.
New talent: Niccolò Pasqualetti and Hodakova are two emerging designers worth watching this season. Their work showcases fresh creativity and distinctive design concepts, injecting new energy into contemporary fashion. Their collections not only reflect their unique design language but also point to future fashion trends.
– With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.
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