Carine Roitfeld's Latest Portfolio for BAZAAR is a Study in Modern Love
To Harper's BAZAAR Global Fashion Director, Carine Roitfeld, people are far more interesting than trends. And as such, a closer look at the Spring 2020 collections inspired an in-depth character study rather than a hot-or-not report. In her March fashion portfolio, Roitfeld and photographer Sebastian Faena took her obsession with characters to a place where identity is often first defined: the university campus. The two mapped a series of identities—some extreme, some subtle, some cliché, some completely abstract—across the expressive faces and bodies of the season’s most in-demand supermodels.
Here, Karlie Kloss, Grace Elizabeth, Hiandra Martinez, Taylor Hill, Alton Mason, Anok Yai, and others redefine classic representations of the party girl, the snob, the nerd, the goodie two shoes, the couple in love, and more, dressed in the best looks for Spring. The codes of the season's most directional collections subvert long-held notions of who we are, and challenge the wearer (and the on-looker) to embrace duality.
Indeed, the party-loving It-girl can also be a working woman; the picture-perfect student has the capacity to get caught in a brawl; the pregnant woman isn't always married to a man; and the presence of law enforcement doesn't always imply an abuse of power—but it can.
In one shot, Kloss appears as a hard-rocking, go-all-night girl wearing a sleek black one-shoulder Bottega Veneta dress with a must-have Pouch bag slung haphazardly over her shoulder. But in another photo, she adopts masculine-feminine style, leaning into her tomboy appeal in a loose white linen shirt and a pair of skinny black jeans by Saint Laurent.
Surprising model pairings further the shoot’s contrasts and complexities. Behold Taylor Hill in a striking close-up portrait with kohl-rimmed eyes and Bulgari fine jewelry, looking like party Karlie’s ride or die. Mere pages later, she’s seen wearing a slit-to-the-waist blush leather Valentino dress while in sensual embrace of a highly pregnant Jacquelyn Jablonski. (Yes, it’s a prosthetic.)
Does this wide array of personalities, aided by the transformative nature of fashion and beauty, inspire you to play? This season, consider following Roitfeld’s fearless lead and bring a sense of play and experimentation—however great or small—to your style.
Pictured Above: Grace Elizabeth in a Tom Ford shirt and shorts; Wolford tights; Bulgari necklace, bracelet, and rings. On left: Stella Maxwell in a Versace bustier, skirt, earrings, choker, and sandals; James Turlington in a Versace blazer, shirt, pants, and shoes.
Above: Hiandra Martinez wears a Louis Vuitton jacket, vest, shirt, pants, brooches, and loafers; Bulgari earrings and ring.
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WORKING GIRLS
The women who see it all: Late-night sirens, 9-to-5 moms, and everything in-between.
Above: Taylor Hill in a Ralph Lauren Collection jacket; Bulgari earrings, ring, pendants, and bracelet. Karlie Kloss in a Bottega Veneta dress and handbag. Alek Wek in a Celine by Hedi Slimane jacket, shirt, pants, belt, bag, and boots; Bulgari earrings, pendant watch, and ring; Karlie Kloss in a Dior jacket, sweater, and pants; Bulgari watch.
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Ride-or-Die Besties
The family that dresses together…
Lindsey Wixon in a Givenchy bustier top and skirt; Bulgari earrings, pendant, and ring; Dorateymur shoes; Stella Maxwell in a Givenchy bra and skirt; Bulgari pendant, bracelet, and ring; Her own earrings; Gianvito Rossi pumps. Anok and Alim Yai in Balenciaga tops and pantashoes.
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Mother Love
Young love? A modern family? A surrogate? Or all of the above.
Jacquelyn Jablonski in a Gucci dress dress, belt and boots; Taylor Hill in a Gucci dress, tights, and sandals. Jacquelyn Jablonski in a Valentino dress; Bulgari pendant, bracelets, and ring; Commando briefs; Dorateymur shoes.
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Woman's Best Friend
Through thick and thin.
Guinevere Van Seenus in a Alexander McQueen jacket, trousers, and shoes; Bulgari earrings, bracelets, and necklace.
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Major P.D.A.
Recess makeouts, study hall flirts, and hot for teacher.
Handra and Alton Mason in a Max Mara shirt, Bermuda shorts, cap, and necktie; Bulgari watch. Carolyn Murphy in Burberry shirt, skirt, and sandals; Bulgari bracelet and ring. Anok Yai wears Chanel tights, top, shorts, and necklaces; Buglari ring; Tom Ford boots.
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The Lovers' Quarrel
It's not always what it seems...
Guinevere Van Seenus in a Miu Miu dress and knit; Manolo Blahnik shoes; Carolyn Murphy in a Miu Miu knit, skirt, and boots; Bulgari bracelet and ring.
Karlie Kloss in Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello shirt, jeans and scarf; Bulgari watch: Dior boots; Grace Elizabeth in Laquan Smith Collection dress; Versace blazer; Bulgari earrings, necklace, and rings; Wolford tights; Tom Ford boots.
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Comfort Zone
Find your safe space.
Grace Elizabeth in a Tom Ford jacket, shirt and shorts; Wolford tights; Bulgari necklace, bracelet, and rings.
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This article originally appears in the March 2020 issue of Harper's BAZAAR, available on newsstands February 18.
Sittings Editor: Ron Hartleben; Sitting Assistants; Daniel Gaines and Lauren Fern; Casting Director; Evelein Joos; Hair: Ward; Makeup: Erin Parsons; Producer: Sasha Bar-Tur for CRStudio; On-Set Production: That One Production; Digital Technicians; Yoshi Park and Joseph Borduin; Photo Assistants; Amelia Hammon, Ernesto Urdaneta, and Daren Thomas; Location: Brooklyn College.
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