Chinese Designers Make Waves at Samaritaine With WWD China
MAKING WAVES: A cohort of 10 Chinese designers took over prime spots within Samaritaine during Paris Fashion Week to showcase runway looks inspired by traditional Chinese arts and crafts.
Running until Oct. 23, the event, “Heavenly Embroidery: Fashion Culture Exhibition,” is part of Samaritaine’s celebration of the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between the People’s Republic of China and France, and marks the fifth anniversary of WWD China.
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Exhibition curator Rosalie Huang, artistic director of WWD China, said the lineup — which features Chen Peng, Feng Chen Wang, Susan Fang, Reverie by Caroline Hu, Shuting Qiu, Raxxy, Tangxindan, Leaf Xia, Tuyue and Ora Knits — represents “a fusion of heritage, craftsmanship and innovation, highlighting Chinese aesthetics and intangible cultural heritage in contemporary fashion while promoting sustainability and cultural exchange between China and France.”
Each piece is linked to an embroidery cultural heritage in China. Huang said the red voluminous Chen Peng look, on display on the ground floor among luxury accessories, came with an oilcloth bead embroidered hat decoration that uses national intangible cultural heritage technology, where natural waterproof tung oil is applied to the fabric.
The aquatic life-inspired dress by Leaf Xia, meanwhile, features Huangzhong-style embroidery, a traditional Chinese craft where fabric is layered to create 3D designs. Originating from Tibet, the technique is known for its vibrant colors and intricate patterns, often depicting religious symbols and nature.
Designer Shuting Qing, who made her Paris debut for spring 2025, brought an archive piece from her graduate collection from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts Antwerp.
“I collaborated with artists from Hangzhou, using leftover beads for embroidery. Since the city is also known for its jacquard brocade, I developed the fabric there as well,” she added.
Qing said it has been overwhelming to see tourists and local shoppers expressing great interest in the exhibition.
“It’s my third time here. I see people are checking the details of everything. I think this exhibition captures a very special moment in time. A lot of Chinese designers have been studying abroad, then back to China to have a studio, and always showing in Milan, Paris, New York and London. There is a real momentum. It’s great that this exhibition brings us all together on a global stage,” Qing said.
Huang added: “This new wave of Chinese designers is making a big impact globally by blending traditional Chinese culture with modern fashion. Their designs reflect China’s rich heritage, like intricate embroidery, while embracing global trends. This gives China a stronger voice in the fashion world.”
The curator is also showcasing craftsmanship through a Miao embroidery costume, created with 90,000 meters of thread in 51 colors, blending Miao and Jing embroidery techniques. It features patterns including clouds, water, dragons and flowers with inspirations drawn from Claude Monet, the Chinese novel “Dream of the Red Chamber” and French chinoiserie.
Produced in partnership with China Mind Next, WWD China is WWD’s second international edition after WWD Japan. There also is a third licensed edition, WWD Korea.
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