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WWD

Chromat RTW Spring 2020

Alessandra Turra

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The spring show that took place on Saturday night marked two important milestones for Chromat: It was not only a celebration of the brand’s 10th anniversary, but it also coincided with its official shift from a wholesale-based to a direct-to-customer business model.

“For the past 10 years, we have been a wholesale-based company, which means we sell our goods to places like Barneys and Nordstrom, and they mark up the price two to three times higher for the retail price,” stated the company in the show’s notes. “We didn’t want to compromise our ethical production or quality materials, so we decided cutting out the wholesale markup was the best way to go.”

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According to Chromat, sustainability and inclusivity, two buzzwords over the past few years, cannot refer only to material sourcing or sizing, they need to be fully anchored to the whole brand’s philosophy. Fair enough.

Fashion-wise, the Chromat show, which was also animated by a live performance by Rico Nasty, once again celebrated the beauty of diversity with a wide-ranging collection shown on a diverse casting. The brand’s swimwear offering, all crafted with regenerated nylon spun from fishnets and up-cycled materials, included a wide range of bikinis and swimsuits, featuring cutout silhouettes and corsetry details, sometimes highlighted by LED lights to shine bright in the dark. Velvet and nylon in different textures were juxtaposed with vinyl, which came from an installation realized by the company for the spring 2015 collection.

Tops, shorts and pants adorned with utility pockets and net inserts featured sport-inspired colorblocks mixing blue, white and neon yellow, while a white cutout dress, sported by a plus-size model, had lettering that spelled out “Sample Size” — a gesture of rebellion against the strict rules of the fashion industry that we are used to.

Launch Gallery: Chromat RTW Spring 2020

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