These church walls show Biblical scenes in 13 million tiny pieces, 50 years in the making
For nearly half a century, the Panegyri Greek Festival has reigned as the region’s largest and most joyful celebration of Greek and Greek American culture. This year’s festival – it’s the 49th – takes place June 28-30 at Holy Trinity-St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church in Finneytown.
What to expect? Food, of course – gyros slathered in tzatziki, baklava dripping with honey, spanakopita, dolmathes and deliciously rough-cut Greek salads.
There is dancing, too – lots and lots of it. Small kids carefully stepping their way through traditional Greek line dances, grown-ups whirling and whooping their way through elaborate, choreographed routines, even people who, by all rights, probably shouldn’t be dancing anywhere beyond their living rooms. They’re all welcome at the Panegyri.
There is no shortage of music, either. The sound is mesmerizing – aggressively plucked bouzoukis (stringed instruments similar to the mandolin but with longer necks) giving the music its distinctive sound.
So by all means, indulge yourself in all the festive activities. But be sure to set aside time to see Panegyri’s real star – the church and its magnificent mosaic iconography. Ever since the first generation of mosaics were installed in 1974 – nearly 3 million pieces, it was reported – tours of the church have been a festival highlight.
Last year, though, the church sanctuary was closed to visitors. It had nothing to do with COVID or any of the other societal disruptions we’ve had to accommodate in recent years. Rather, it was because the nave of the church was filled with scaffolding as mosaic artisans worked to cover even more of the interior space with mosaics.
This year, with the work done and scaffolding removed, the tours are back in business.
“I expect the demand for tours will be quite big,” said the Rev. Father Mark Emroll, the church’s presiding priest.
Traditionally, Orthodox churches weren’t considered complete until every possible surface was covered with iconographic images. In some cases, the icons – which depict all manner of saints, martyrs and prophets, along with many important biblical scenes – might be painted on canvases or directly on the walls. In the case of Holy Trinity-St. Nicholas, the parishioners opted for mosaics.
In retrospect, their decision seems enlightened.
The church turned to Sirio Tonelli and his studio in Pietrasanta, Italy, just a few miles inland from the Ligurian Sea in northern Tuscany. Though Tonelli was raised a Roman Catholic, his Byzantine-styled images made him a favorite of Orthodox churches, especially here in the U.S., where his work can be seen in scores of churches.
A goal you hear often in the Orthodox church is to “create heaven on earth,” whether it be in the liturgy, the architecture or, as in this case, with the images that fill the walls. Tonelli, who died in 2019, fully appreciated that concept and did his best to turn Holy Trinity-St. Nicholas into a place that transported anyone who entered the building to a higher spiritual plane.
Today, Tonelli’s son, John, carries on the family business. And though the project has already gone on for more than 50 years, there are still portions of the interior walls that are unadorned. There might just be more in the future.
“That will have to be for the next priest,” said Father Mark, with a laugh. He doesn’t intend to leave any time soon. But the process of planning, refining and finally executing an artwork of this detail can be all-consuming. And that doesn’t even include the diplomacy involved in raising money to pay for it.
Today, it’s estimated there are more than 13 million tiny pieces of material – stone, ceramic and glass are most common. And while they are artistically pleasing, these images are meant to do more than adorn the space with a pretty background for worship.
Take time to examine all the images and you will find much of the story of the birth, life, death and resurrection of Christ. Father Mark launches into the stories of the dozens of saints who are depicted – Saint Theodore, Saint George, Saint Mary Magdalene and, of course, Saint Nicholas. There are others you might not know so well – Saint Barbara, Saint Paraskevi and Saint Irene.
Behind them all is a shimmering sky-blue tile background interspersed with occasional tiles of glittering gold. Elaborate borders frame some of the images and scenes of everything from Lazarus being brought back from the dead to Christ praying in the Garden of Gethsemane before his betrayal and his trial by Pontius Pilate.
Crane your neck back and you will find, towering above all of this, an immense image of Christ. Look closely in the lower right corner of the angular mosaic frame that surrounds Christ and you will see a tiny signature – "Tonelli '99," the craftsman whose sprawling vision for connecting the past with the present turned this brick building into a serene house for worship.
Panegyri Greek Festival
When: June 28 (5-11 p.m.), June 29 (3-11 p.m.), June 30 (1-8 p.m.).
Where: Holy Trinity-St. Nicholas Greek Orthodox Church, 7000 Winton Road, Finneytown.
Tickets: $3, $5 for weekend pass, under 12 free.
Information: 513-591-0030; htsnchurch.org.
Church tours take place:
June 28 – 6 and 7:30 p.m.
June 29 – 4, 5:30 and 7 p.m.
June 30 – 2, 3:30 and 5 p.m.
This article originally appeared on Cincinnati Enquirer: Cincinnati church unveils massive mosaic project 50 years in making